Full disclosure, this is my love letter to Shanghai Tang. I am a fan. Oops wrong campaign, but truly, am a fan of my hometown brand, and I've featured the label in my columns, fashion shoots, Best of... annual lists since... Jesus was in high school. Here's my (quasi-) deep dive into ST;
Often hailed as Hong Kong's first global luxury brand, Shanghai Tang emerged in 1994 amid the city's vibrant post-colonial scene. Founded by the charismatic entrepreneur, the bon mot and bon vivant Sir David Tang, the brand drew inspiration from 1930s Shanghai glamour, blending traditional Chinese elements like qipaos, mandarin collars, and velvet Tang jackets with bold, modern twists. Neon colours, satin and silk fabrics, intricate embroidery and embellishments, a range from the subtle to glittering excess, the original flagship store in Central had a little something for anyone and everyone - particularly tourists with a proclivity of purchasing Chinois chic, in silken fabric-in-seamed neon green paillette gift boxes.
Tang's vision was audacious: to elevate "Made in China" from a mark of mass production to a symbol of luxury, much like how Mercedes represents German engineering or Coca-Cola signals American culture across the world, Shanghai Tang became synonymous with Hong Kong's elevated luxury scene; when celebrities, politicians and world leaders landed on the dot of an island, they inevitably made a stop at the landmark Central store. Hillary Clinton was spotted there, Naomi Campbell wore their signature jackets, while Whoopie Goldberg wore the brand for a season while seated front and centre at Hollywood Squares. The Western celebrities had no link nor lineage to Hong Kong, China - or even Asia, but their friendship with David Tang, one of the great global Asian personalities, meant a goody bag travelled the seven seas from Victoria Harbour to Hollywood.
Starting as a bespoke tailoring shop in Hong Kong's Pedder Building, it employed tailors who fled Shanghai during the Communist Revolution, quickly expanding to ready-to-wear by 1996. The brand's early success was fueled by celebrity endorsements—Princess Diana and Kate Moss donned its pieces—and a kitschy, Pop Art flair that appealed to Western elites. By the late 1990s, Shanghai Tang symbolized East-West fusion, exploding onto the international stage.
The rise accelerated with global expansion. Tang opened the flagship in Central Hong Kong's Pedder Building, a whopping 6,300-square-foot emporium of vibrant silks, cashmere, and homeware. In 1997, it ventured to New York with a lavish, staggering 12,000-square-foot Madison Avenue store... but this marked the first stumble: it shuttered in 1999 after just 19 months, crippled by high rents and sluggish sales of its alien, colourful designs to American tastes where the minimalism of Calvin Klein and ready-to-wear DKNY was all the rage. High rents and immobile landlords? It was also a sign of what's to come sooner than later in Hong Kong as well, notorious for capricious landlords and breath-taking square footage rent and sale.
Undeterred, Richemont acquired a controlling stake in 1998 (completing full ownership by 2008), injecting capital for growth. Stores proliferated: by 2009, 34 locations worldwide, peaking at 45 by 2013, with 30 in Greater China. Outlets spanned Bangkok, Beijing, London, Paris, Singapore, Tokyo, and even Honolulu, Las Vegas, and Miami, often in prime spots like Orchard Road or Xintiandi.
Under creative director, the fabulous Joanne Ooi (2001-2008), collections infused cultural themes, boosting sales by 43% by 2005.
Ooi herself a remarkable wit and capable of eviscerating word play, led the golden years by golden thread as the house of Tang flourished. The brand needed a narrator and after a character like David Tang, Ooi provided quotes and quotations to energise fashion editors craving for an intersting story from the East. Milestones included the 2007 Mandarin Collar Society and costumes for the 2004 film Colour Blossoms.
Yet, the fall was swift soon after. High rents and shifting consumer preferences plagued the brand. In October 2011, the iconic Central Hong Kong flagship closed after 17 years, as rents soared—A&F paid 2.5 times more to take the space, and covered the once high fashion emblem retail space... with its notorious stench of fast fashion, cheap thrills and casual ready-to-wear that reeked of the worst of Americana. From the elegance of the Mandarin collar to shirtless boy-toys standing in front of the store, Pedder's prestige took one at the shin. For a while it didn't matter, sales were swift and rent was paid.
Shanghai Tang's move symbolised broader woes: the Pedder store, once a tourist magnet for Mao watches, became overpriced and stagnant without strong marketing. Chinese consumers increasingly favoured Western luxury, viewing Shanghai Tang as too nostalgic or kitschy (something that neighbour Goods of Desire aka G.O.D. was doing well, at a fraction of the cost).
Global retreats followed; the Miami store closed by the mid-2010s, and others like London and Paris shuttered amid ownership turmoil; from 45 stores in 2013, the network contracted significantly, with estimates suggesting dozens of closures over the years as the brand refocused on Asia.
Things then turned from bad to verse; the King of quip and the brand's eternal ambassador David Tang's death in 2017 exacerbated the decline, leading Richemont to sell in July 2017 to Italian entrepreneur Alessandro Bastagli and Cassia Investments for an undisclosed sum.
Ownership has changed hands five times: from Tang to Richemont (1998), Bastagli/Cassia (2017), Lunar Capital (December 2018), and restructured in 2020 under UTAN Group as a core brand.
However, as of 2025, Derek Sulger and Jerry Mao—Lunar's leaders—own it independently, spearheading a "revolution" with headquarters in Shanghai and streamlined supply chains.
Designers have rotated: Ooi, Massimiliano Giornetti (2017-2018), Victoria Tang-Owen (2018-2020, David's daughter), and now Yosh Yu, who infuses artistry and irreverence to a much-beloved brand.
Today, Shanghai Tang operates about 20-25 stores, down from its peak, focused on Asia: three in Hong Kong (Pacific Place being its largest flaship in town), plus Shanghai, Beijing, Shenzhen, Singapore (Raffles City), Kuala Lumpur, and cafes in China.
Recent expansions include Milan Fashion Week debuts and artist collaborations, with 30th-anniversary celebrations in 2024 signaling revival... if not a revolution. Sales surged in homeware post-2023, but the brand's journey—from 24 global openings in the 2000s to numerous closures—reflects luxury's volatility.
The frequent rise and fall and rise again reflects Shanghai Tang's intriguing narrative, one of resilience, navigating cultural shifts, tenancy disagreements, designer musical chairs [which is true of any luxury brand] and signature style, while chasing a truly Chinese luxury identity. The latest chapter in the brand's storied history is being written with deft hands-- and that's all the Chinese take away you need today.
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| James Wong wearing Shanghai Tang |
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