It could have been a mere whim, a tongue-in-chic approach to a “men’s fashion-cultural revolution from the East” but when the Mandarin Collar Society was launched in Hong Kong, every major newspaper and media outlet around the globe picked up the newsbyte and the world took note. Chuck the ties that bind and say, knot now, knot anymore! P.Ramakrishnan takes it off with Raphael le Masne de Chermont. His tie that is.
Raphael le Masne de Chermont, CEO of the Chinese luxury lifestyle brand Shanghai Tang, hasn’t worn a tie in years and he seems none the worse for the un-wear for it. When the Mandarin Collar Society was launched in April 2007, it made news and headlines the world saw and heard. Chuck the tie and adopt the flipped up Mandarin collar? Is that feasible? With plans to adopt 88 (the lucky number in Chinese) world ambassadors, as we go to print, ‘Raphael le Masne de Chermont’ is a name that has popped up on google search in over 12,500 sites.
“I knew it would!” he says sounding rather matter-of-fact, as we sip warm Jasmine tea at a private alcove in Shanghai Tang, the flagship store in the heart of Central – the only shopping stop that Hillary and Chelsea Clinton made during their last visit to Hong Kong. “People in the Orient, living in Asia, it is time to start to adopt their own styles. We cannot keep following a fashion, where luxury is being designed in the West. It is time for great nations like China to impress upon the world, we are not just factories of the world! We are old cultures, who deserve to initiate and generate some creative ides.”
Hear, hear! As the worst-kept secret in town, ever major luxury brand and with its inter-locking alphabetical emblems has a factory not far from the borders of Hong Kong. Is all of China nothing more than a tax-free, cheap labour dotted, cost-effective factory site for the multi-billion dollar fashion industry?
“That’s exactly my point! China, Hong Kong is not just a factory site – we must impress this upon the world,” says de Chermont. “The idea of the Mandarin Collar Society, is the start of an oriental chic elegance, as a complement to the western style. It is not too far from the Nehru collar style which is so elegant, so beautiful. The reason why it made so much noise, it is based on two strong ideas. First, the ties for many people is an accessory they would rather not wear anymore. Its out-dated! Secondly, people want to adopt comfort and fashion – and it can be done with a Mandarin collar.”
When Tom Hanks appeared in front of David Letterman after winning an Oscar for Philadelphia, boosted by perhaps the confidence brought on by box-office and critical success, he wore a snazzy and stylish suit and had indeed left his tie behind. Letterman, always an opportunist for a punch line, grabbed the moment to glibly state, “What’s the matter Tom? Couldn’t afford a tie?”
Clearly that is not the case and for someone of le Masne’s stature in Hong Kong society, entering posh restaurants and clubs sans tie wouldn’t be a problem… for him. But what if your average Joe Bloggs saunters into the VIP area of a lux eatery - wouldn’t security be there faster than a speeding bullet? “Prominent members of society, they are opening the door for a change. I would be lobbying for the clubs in Hong Kong to accept the Mandarin Collar as part of the Hong Kong culture, as an essence of Chinese culture. It is trying to bring elegance back into the restaurant not out of it! We are just anchoring our move,” he says.
Speaking of anchors away, le Masne suddenly asks, “Remember the movie with Richard Gere, An Officer and A Gentleman? Why so many women find officers so attractive? Why do they look so good? No ties! It’s that collar that makes the head of a gentleman look so good, it’s a natural elegance. An element of attractiveness…. So we’re looking for “new recruits.”
So what has the response been like from women around Hong Kong? “They wanted their own club!” he says but refusing to comply. “I tell the ladies, you already have your revolution on other things, a long time ago. In terms of communication, men’s oriental elegance was left alone, but oriental chic in women’s clothes has been around for years. Men ought to have something for themselves. We have a new chic, oui?”
Mais oui!
Casual Friday hitting the work force is one of the few men’s fashion revolutions that comes to mind and yet, somehow, in the corporate, banking and political realm, this sartorial storm of abandoning the tie (Chief Executive Donald Tsang without his signature bow-tie anyone?) seems, well, a long way away. le Masne is more confident about it, “The tie is the leash of the corporate man,” he says. “It is a bit of a joke at first I thought when a friend sent me a message saying that a tie was hazardous to your health. But I saw in a newspaper cutting that it was a choking hazard and doctors state that people are jeopardizing their health with this. At 40, you start putting on weight and you have to change your shirts and collars and its so uncomfortable. It doesn’t mean that when you start taking off the tie and you wear a t-shirt and jeans to work! I tell men, unleash yourself.”
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