How to buy a good bottle of wine without paying the earth as explained by wine connoisseurs

By P. Ramakrishnan


Simon Tam, head of wine for China at Christie's Auction House, says there actually are ways of buying wine on a budget.

"A lot of good wine in hotel chain-linked restaurants can be available for HK$500 to HK$700 per bottle - and that's a very good price to work on for the budget-minded." And an insider's tip would be that a lot of Chinese restaurants - not Western - don't charge for corkage, which is a great way to save money by buying retail and doing "BYOB".

When buying at a department store, how can one home in on a good bottle? "In Hong Kong, we're very lucky that something in the vicinity of HK$500 is available to us for any kind of wine, except perhaps a good Bordeaux - which is always a bit more expensive," Tam says.

"There are so many labels on display, and the truth of the matter is, for a lot of people, it's a matter of palate and appreciation. If you've spent HK$1,000 and it doesn't agree with their taste buds, then [your guests will] think it's cheap wine. I strongly suggest, in this scenario, buying a bottle of champagne. People might profess not to like it, but pop open a chilled one and everyone raises a toast. It becomes an occasion."

Picking the right bottle for the uninitiated is luck of the draw. Most people, by habit, simply look at the price to gauge its quality. "The cheaper the wine is, the more the mark-up is," says Kavita Devi Faiella, wine director of the Press Room Group. "Restaurateurs know that the cheap bottles will fly off the shelves. But owners want to move the expensive bottle, too, so they might mark it up by just a fraction."

The price of the wine can depend on whether you head to a chain restaurant or a stand-alone. Chains offer better value than independent restaurants. "Wine is priced more competitively in an independently run restaurant," Devi Faiella adds. "Global restaurants' in-house numbers are unpredictable because they buy in bulk and distribute them.

"If there's a chain run by the same management that has a restaurant here in Hong Kong [which has no tax or luxury tariff] versus in India [which has a great deal of taxation on wine and whisky], they level the prices as they're looking at the overall scale."

Can you get a great wine that's cheap? Tam says no: "If you really want the good stuff, you have to pay for it. I've taught classes on wine tasting, and the two things I promise all my students is you'll end up buying and appreciating expensive wine and you'll never go back to the cheap rubbish. If you appreciate wine, it's nice to pay for quality wines. There are no 1961 Chateau Lafites for HK$200."

佳士得拍賣行中國區葡萄酒業務主管譚業明（Simon Tam）表示，預算有限的愛好者其實不乏買到好酒的方法。

「連鎖酒店旗下餐廳不少好酒每瓶只需港幣 500 至 700 元，這對預算緊絀的人來說非常實惠。」他還分享了一個內行秘訣：不少中菜館——而非西餐廳——都不收取開瓶費，自備美酒（BYOB）絕對是省錢的一大妙招。

在百貨公司選購時，該如何鎖定優質酒款？譚業明指：「香港人非常幸運，除了可能稍貴的優質波爾多（Bordeaux）之外，大約港幣 500 元就能買到各類好酒。」

「架上酒款琳琅滿目，但老實說，這很大程度取決於個人口味與鑑賞力。如果你花了港幣 1,000 元買的酒不合客人胃口，他們只會覺得這是便宜貨。在這種情況下，我強烈建議直接買一瓶香檳。大家未必會主動說喜歡香檳，但只要冰鎮後拔塞汽泡迸發，眾人舉杯，氣氛頓時就出來了。」

對於門外漢來說，挑對好酒多少有點憑運氣，大多數人習慣單看價格來衡量品質。Press Room Group 葡萄酒總監 Kavita Devi Faiella 表示：「越便宜的酒，溢價比例往往越高。餐廳經營者深知平價酒最暢銷，但同時也想帶動高價酒的銷量，因此高價酒的加價幅度可能相對較小。」

酒價亦取決於你光顧的是連鎖餐廳還是獨立餐廳。連鎖店的性價比往往高於獨立經營的店家。Devi Faiella 補充道：「獨立營運的餐廳在葡萄酒定價上更具競爭力。全球連鎖餐廳的內部定價較難預測，因為他們是批量採購後再分發。」

「如果同一管理層旗下的連鎖集團在香港（零葡萄酒稅）和印度（對葡萄酒及威士忌徵收重稅）都有分店，他們為考量整體規模，往往會拉平兩地的售價。」

那究竟能不能用便宜價格買到頂級好酒？譚業明直言不可能：「如果你真想喝好酒，就必須付出相應代價。我教過品酒課，向所有學員保證過兩件事：你最終一定會懂得購買和欣賞昂貴的名酒，而且再也回不去喝那些便宜劣酒了。懂得品酒的人，自然樂意為品質掏腰包。世上絕沒有港幣 200 元就能買到的 1961 年拉菲（Chateau Lafite）。」

Discover Ca' del Bosco's Cuvée Prestige Edizione 47: The Ultimate Holiday Sparkling Wine

Ca' del Bosco, from Italy’s Franciacorta wine region, has announced the release of its latest offering, the Cuvée Prestige Edizione 47, a sparkling wine poised to enhance holiday celebrations and serves as an intriguing option for those seeking quality in their festive libations. 

Was thinking of my gorgeous friend KJ, who prefers sparkling wine over champagne -- sacre bleu! Thanks to her, I've tried other options that I normally wouldn't sip, and found surprising options. Including non-alcoholic ones that seem to be the rage of the current party scene in HK. I've only done this for... oyve.. 24 years... so have seen every trend come and go. This one endures. 

Crafted from a blend of 75% Chardonnay, 22.5% Pinot Noir, and 2.5% Pinot Blanc, the Cuvée Prestige Edizione 47 reflects the winery's commitment to excellence. The 2022 vintage benefited from favorable weather conditions, characterized by limited rainfall, which has contributed to its robust structure and vibrant acidity. The wine is aged for 25 months, allowing for a refined development of flavors.

This sparkling wine features a nuanced flavor profile, with notes of white peach, citrus zest, and almond, complemented by a creamy and persistent perlage. It is produced using a proprietary oxygen-free disgorgement method, which enhances its purity. 

Sustainability is integral to Ca' del Bosco's philosophy, which encompasses organic vineyard practices and energy-efficient production techniques. The estate has focused on maintaining high standards since its inception in the early 1970s, aiming to balance environmental stewardship with the demands of quality wine production.

The Cuvée Prestige Edizione 47 is available at Watson's Wine locations throughout Hong Kong.

Preserving Legacies: Penfolds Re-Corking Clinic Returns to Hong Kong

A premier wine aftercare service for avid wine collectors will take place in the city this August.

Entire websites and innumerable columns are dedicated to the grape concerns of wine countries and their blushing residents who worry about their lot with the burning question: What happens to leftover wine? What does one do with an uncorked, vital varietal before it turns to vinegar? How does one preserve an opened bottle still brimming with promises?

Knocking on the reserves of Penfolds has once again proven to be enlightening, as the clever corks from Down Under are bringing back to Hong Kong a much-needed service not seen in the city since 2017: the Penfolds Re-Corking Clinic.

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong.

Penfolds' Peter Gago on how Wine-Tasting is like Music

 

Penfolds Unveils Its Exclusive Grange La Chapelle 2021 Collaboration in Hong Kong

Penfolds and La Chapelle paint the town red with this rarefied limited edition.

Penfolds has unveiled its ultra-exclusive new wine, Grange La Chapelle 2021, now officially available in limited quantities in Hong Kong. A highly anticipated vintage, this release signifies an unprecedented collaboration in the world of viticulture, showcasing the artistry and innovation of two legendary winemakers: Peter Gago of Penfolds and Caroline Frey of La Chapelle, who proved that it does take two to tango.

Grange La Chapelle 2021 emerges from the deep-rooted friendship between Gago, chief winemaker of Penfolds Grange, and Frey, chief winemaker of La Chapelle in France, but their partnership is not merely a blending of wines—it is a celebration of culture, tradition, and the relentless pursuit of excellence. Resulting from that is a pioneering 50/50 blend of French Syrah and Australian Shiraz, marrying the storied terroirs of Hermitage and South Australia in a way that has, as far as memory serves, never been accomplished before.

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong. 

A Rare Collection of First-Vintage Wines from Bhutan is Heading to Auction

Calling all oenophiles—this one’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. 

In an extraordinary development for wine enthusiasts and collectors, Bonhams is set to auction the first-ever vintage of wine cultivated and produced in Bhutan. Set to take place from 3 to 24 April, this landmark event will feature a limited offering of just 48 bottles from the Bhutan Wine Company, making it a momentous occasion in the annals of viticulture.

Bonhams’ historic auction will showcase 48 bottles of Ser Kem—translating to “an offering of alcohol to the gods”—the inaugural bottling from the Bhutan Wine Company. Founded with the goal of introducing the world to Bhutan’s rich terroir, characterised by its pristine environment and high altitude, the unique venture’s first-ever harvest of wine grapes in Bhutan occurred in 2023, resulting in the creation of the Ser Kem bottlings, a special blend that encapsulates the essence of the region’s diverse grape varieties.

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong 

Lunar New Year 2025: 3 Luxurious Spirits to Celebrate the Year of the Snake

Penfolds, Hennessy, and Rémy Martin are serving in style with a generous pour.

Annually, we highlight Lunar New Year special-edition bottles from the finest brands in town. Last year, much was ballyhooed about the Year of the Dragon and the designer bottles that dropped; before that, the Year of the Rabbit saw a very special bottle, and Ruinart released a gorgeous artistic drop the year before that. Well, this Lunar New Year, artists and artisans have gone all out once again, collaborating with those who quench our thirst.

As the Lunar New Year approaches, the anticipation for exquisite offerings moves from slow sizzle to the full rage of red. Fine grapes are working overtime to deliver. It is the Year of the Wood Snake, after all, so tapping on those wooden casks and crates, we have found just the right timbre with Penfolds, Hennessy, and Rémy Martin.

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong

China’s Fine Wines Continue to Rise. Here Are the Best Ones to Try Right Now.

 

When it comes to the Asian fine wine industry, fame becomes her.

A few months ago, a white-glove gala affair attended by connoisseurs and critics saw some of the best wines in the world feted and awarded lofty titles. Among them, the best red, white, Chardonnay, Vidal, and so on were named in a grand total of 23 categories. Upholding international competition standards, adjudicated by a panel of 27 local and international critics, the deliberation was followed by a highly anticipated awards ceremony.

On the night, the highest honour was awarded to the Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021. In fact, all the winners were Chinese, as Wynn Macau and Wynn Palace hosted the first-ever Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards in April of this year. As the biggest Chinese wine competition in the world—and what we hope will become an annual affair—the event created seismic ripples in the tipple industry, and many an epicurean from Europe and the Americas were paying attention to the hitherto globally unsung labels, vineyards, and locales.

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong.

Celebrating 180 Years, the Penfolds 2024 Collection is an Oenophile’s Arcadia

 

It’s time to paint the town Aussie red.

180 years of brand history is nothing to sniff at, and Australian wine producer Penfolds is marking the special occasion with a stellar 2024 collection.

Aptly named the Penfolds 2024 Collection, the anniversary release comprises the fruits of Australia, China, the US, and France’s labours, featuring 25 wines made from the greatest vineyards around the world, sourced and produced under the multi-regional Penfolds house style. Under the guidance of Penfolds senior winemaker Steph Dutton, we at Robb Report Hong Kong had the opportunity to sample some of the finest reds from the collection, including the Grange, Bin 704, FWT 585, CWT 521, and Bin 389—a personal favourite—certifying our long-held belief that Penfolds is indubitably Australia’s premier vintner.

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong.

Historic Italian Winery Frescobaldi Makes the Quintessential Tuscan Wine—Here’s How

We came to them with grape expectations. 

 
Imagine on your palate red berries, sour cherry, and dried plum, with a fresh and spicy finish, and the faint aroma of indescribable fruit. Not too citrusy but more pulpy, with bouquets of black cherry, raspberry, blueberry, redcurrants, and blackcurrants. If that sounds like the beginning of an off-kilter recipe for a pie, it’s not, but the nose notes on the Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina DOCG, a legendary wine produced at Castello di Nipozzano.

Its ruby-red colour makes for an elegant pour; as you turn the stem, the rich blush of red eases into the wine glass, and a fine nose can detect abundant aromas. A heady mix of the finest grape—Sangiovese, Colorino, and Cabernet Sauvignon—the varietals make for a smooth sip. It’s one of the finer entry-level wines from Frescobaldi; the Nipozzano has a marvellous balance and a lovely freshness evoked from the floral hints—violets and rosehip—characterises the profile of this wine. It’s hard to believe this refined and excellent wine is but a mere introduction to the flight that Frescobaldi offers.

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong.

Paris, Je T'aime

For Francophiles and lovers of art, opera, music and dance, fashion, food and wine, there's nothing quite like Le French May, the annual celebration of all things French. Hong Kong plays host to some of the best acts from France, so here's P.Ramakrishnan's sneak peek at the highlights of what's coming up.

Vintage Returns

The right wines can mature into a ripe investment, writes P.Ramakrishnan.

Wine is no longer merely a palatable refreshment. Now it’s also a collectible, seen as a potentially lucrative investment. These days, a sip of win could mean a dip into your portfolio, and names like Lafite, Latour, Margaux and Mouton-Rothschild should be sprinkled into conversation not just over dinner, but when mulling over your private collection with your financial advisers.

If you do have “grape expectations” and are hoping for vintage returns, there are some simple steps to consider when starting your own collection. “Decide if you are doing this for profit, investment or pleasure – to accumulate some special wines to share with friends and family in years to come. This will have a large influence on your actions,” says Greg De ‘Eb of Crown Wine Cellars, who has seen some of the finest collections in Asia.

Imagine you’ve joined Epicureans Anonymous and think of it as a step-by-step programme. “Focus on Bordeaux and Burgundy wines with a smattering of Californian greats. Concentrate on the good, recognised vintages - ’82, ’86, ’90, ’96, 2000, 2003, 2005 – in order to see the highest returns,” says De ‘Eb.

Like researching a stock tip, read up on the subject; for example the ratings guides like the ones published by Robert Parker – his 100-point wines are revered and coveted.

While you’re hitting the books, get a map. Think global gumption, and expand your horizons to lesser known areas but still acknowledged estates, such as Vega Sicilia, Spain; South Africa’s Vergelegen, Meerlust and Kanonkop; Moss Wood, Australia; wines from Douro in Portugal; Alba in Italy and California’s Napa greats.

“Keep them for as long as possible or buy them old and keep them longer,’ says De ‘Eb. “It is great fun to bring out wines with age at dinners and gatherings – especially if they have a story behind them. It shows that you have made an effort and love your wines.”

Viviane Weller, marketing and sales manager at Howards Folly, a private collection of wines available in Hong Kong, adds. “If you keep an eye on other people’s collections the world over – as there are wines that have been saved for years and should be ready to drink or invest in - you must check what is available to buy or exchange with what’ve got.”

When tough economic times loom, many collectors try to unload their stock;, liquidating (literally) their assets. “People start selling their wines to get money quickly and auctions are keenly observed,” says Weller. “Andrew Lloyd Webber’s collection will hit the docks in Hong Kong, and that has sparked a lot of interest among connoisseurs.”

At the Sotheby’s wine auction, on January 22 (2010), Webber plans to sell off 748 lots of fine wine. “There’s a lot of buzz among collectors for this auction as it includes cases of the first growths on the 2005 vintage, Petrus 2000, Cheval Blanck 1982. Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache, and Domaine Leflaive,” says Weller. “The stage producer and director’s fine taste in some rare and excellent vintages will be up on the ballot.”

And speaking of directors, finding your “direction wines” is a key step for all aspiring connoisseurs. It tells what styles of wine, varietals and countries of origin you enjoy most.

“Try individual bottles of different ages to find out how they will hold up to ageing, and then align your purchases accordingly,’ advises De ‘Eb. “Only then go out and buy cases.”

New collectors can also make sophomoric mistakes. “Do not drink the wines too young; this is equal to eating unripe fruit,” say De ‘Eb. “Never buy wines that have been stored incorrectly; wine is a living product and will die if not properly kept. This is like having fresh eggs in the boot of your car for two weeks – they will still look okay but you do not really want to open them and see what’s inside.”

Although there seems to be an overwhelming crop of wines being sold in online auctions, websites and forums, never buy wine “blind”. There are many questions to ask vendors, from requesting photos and descriptions of the wine’s condition to inquiring about its history – where it comes form and how it was kept. It only takes one rotten grape to end up with vinegar.

“Do no simply accept the ‘It comes from a great cellar in Europe that is kept at 13 degrees’ line” says De ‘Eb. “This is usually nonsense.”

Once you’ve secured your taste, then comes the question of storage.

“Being a boring traditionalist, I have a good two-bottle cooler bag for my whites and a sturdy leather clad hard two–bottle case for my reds,” says De’Eb. “This serves my dinner transport needs. As for home wine-bottle holders – definitely a no-no, stylistically and functionally. A cold, dark place, and keeping your wines in a cardboard box is much better.”

But for serious collectors, dramatic measures are often taken. A property magnate in Hong Kong’s South Bay, for example apparently decked his basement with a state-of-the art temperature control room, designer bottle caverns; complete with colour-coordinated library efficiency, a password–protected door and a nanny cam recording ins and outs.

It’s a multimillion dollar effort, and yet believe it or not, this still read dilettante on the oenophile table. “Only store your great, collectible, high-value wines in professional facilities with exceptional security, 100 per cent insurance, HKQAA Fine Wine ratings and substantial financial backing” says De ‘Eb.

Although Webber’s older wines were cellared at Sydmonton Court, his 16th-century home in Berkshire, his newer wines (worth almost US$8 million) were kept in professional storage. “If you do not do this, you will discover with a shock at the time of selling that your precious wine is worth only a fraction of what you thought it would be,” says De’Eb. “Overall, the correct conditions are critical to the long term enjoyment of your wine.”



NOTE:
Out today! With the daily edition of South China Morning Post, in Style magazine.

Personal Taste: Frederic Panaiotis: Winemaker at Veuve Clicquot

For Frederic Panaiotis eating and drinking at the best restaurants in the world is all part of the job. The Veuve Clicquot winemaker was in Hong Kong to introduce the 1998 vintage of his champagne at the Grand Hyatt.

When did you have your first taste of champagne?
I was one-minute-old. It's tradition in Champagne that when a baby is born, you put drop of champagne on his tongue to welcome him into the world.

Are you one of those who think the only real champagne is from Champagne?
Yes, of course. All the rest is just wine. People forget that champagne is essentially a wine with effervescence. Only what comes from the city of Champagne is the real thing.

Is Hong Kong a good champagne market?
Hong Kong is an excellent champagne market and there are some very passionate, crazy collectors here. In all of Asia, it's second only to Japan. All the wine geeks I've met in Asia have been from Hong Kong - it's wonderful!

Do you think champagne goes well with Chinese food?
You'd be surprised how well it mixes. I've had excellent meals in Yung Kee restaurant [in Central] and seafood goes really well with champagne. As long as the flavours of a dish don't overwhelm the taste of champagne, it's a happy marriage of flavours. Golden Unicorn [in the Marco Polo] is another restaurant where I had the best Chinese meal. Other places I like in Hong Kong are Petrus [at the Island Shangri-La] and the Oyster & Wine Bar at the Sheraton. In a restaurant, I'm really looking for an experience - the food, the setting and the service - and you get the best of that here.

What food goes well with certain champagnes?
With Hainan chicken, I would rink a vintage yellow label, with Peking duck, a rose champagne - it's fantastic. I was in Beijing a while ago and a chef created a menu to complement our vintage champagnes and it was exceptional.

Do you always have champagne with a meal?
It is the best way to start a meal! It puts you in a great mood and then you enjoy the experience.

What has been your worst dining experience?
I once had a very spicy meal that killed all the flavour in the wine. It was like a broken bone for an athlete, I had to recover from it! Artichokes, vinegar, bitter chocolate - all these strong-flavoured foods don't go with champagne, which is very delicate. Some people might like it but it's not to my taste.

On your travels, where have you had the best food and wine experiences?
In Italy, at La Bottega del Vino, I think it was the craziest and best of times. Italians take their food and wine very seriously and they like to have a good time at a meal. I won't tell you what happened [laughs knowingly], but it was a memorable evening. Les Crayeres in France is a favourite place of mine. The food is expensive but it is truly and consistently exceptional.

When did you decide to make a career from wine?
I remember exactly the time and the day. It was a Christmas party in 1982, at home, with my family. My uncle brought a bottle of Richebourg Burgundy, my other had prepared a white pheasant and I clearly remember being so happy at the time; the meal, the wine, everything was just perfect. I was just 18 years old and although I didn't make my exact career decision then, it was the first time I realised that wine was more than just a drink. I knew I would be in this field and not an accountant or something.

How big is your wine cellar?
My cellar has around 1,800 wines and I am most proud of my Veuve Clicquot 1959 - I am saving that for a special occasion.

Words: P.Ramakrishnan

Photo: South China Morning Post