Showing posts with label Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Food. Show all posts

Tuesday, 3 September 2024

Mooncake Magic and Sumptuous Cantonese Dishes at The Peninsula Hong Kong

The time to relish in the delicacies of Mid-Autumn Festival—and partake in the festivities and feasts that come with it—is upon us. A key part of the occasion’s canon, the role of the once-humble mooncake cannot be overstated, and we turn to an icon, The Peninsula Hong Kong, to embrace the Mid-Autumn Festival tradition. 


Spring Moon, The Peninsula Hong Kong’s very own Cantonese restaurant, is a Michelin-starred jewel where award-winning chefs have created a fine balance between tradition and novelty for nearly four decades. Back in 1986, the culinary team of Spring Moon manifested what eventually became a local culinary phenomenon: the mini egg custard mooncake. The original recipe may have a Western-inspired filling, but the time-honoured cooking traditions are the same, making it a firm favourite. The treat is included in Spring Moon’s Mid-Autumn Festival offerings every year, whilst a limited-edition sesame paste mochi mooncake is also up for grabs this season. This mooncake flavour was created by Chinese cuisine executive chef, Lam Yuk Ming, as an homage to the steamed sesame and lotus seed paste buns that he enjoyed in his childhood,  

Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong.

Saturday, 13 February 2021

12 Questions with Chef Richard Ekkebus of Amber

You may have already read the cover story featuring chef Richard Ekkebus of Amber, in which he explains his new approach to fine dining — no dairy, less sugar, etc. — but that’s not all we spoke to him about. 

Here, in this exclusive online interview, Ekkebus reveals his guilty pleasure, what makes him angry in the kitchen, and much more.

Read the entire feature at Prestige Online here

Photography Nic Gaunt | Art Direction Bex Gaunt | Styling Tasha Ling 


Wednesday, 20 March 2019

How Now Brown Cow: Premium Beef in Hong Kong: Mayura Wagyu

Every few months, we get a newsbyte on premium beef, with the terms ‘artisanal’, ‘curated’, ‘exclusive’ thrown into the mix to try and wet our palate – none have worked as well as the invitation from The Steak House winebar + grill (at the InterContinental Hong Kong) to try the Mayura Wagyu from Australia, also known as Chocolate-Fed Wagyu. 



Mayura Wagyu is acclaimed for its signature sweet, rich flavour, resulting from the unique chocolate diet 100% of the Wagyu cattle are fed in their final stage of maturation. Introduced to Hong Kong by Scott de Bruin, Mayura Station's managing director, under the magical hands of Executive Chef Maxime Luvara and Steak House Chef Chiu Ming Chan, their perennial quest for the ”best of the best” beef from artisanal (there's that word again!) farms around the world has resulted in aces. Such tender lovin’ steak we haven’t sampled in years as it was pure love at first bite. 

From now until 30 April 2019, you can get a taste of this unique and exceptional Wagyu prepared expertly by Chef Chiu Ming Chan over the restaurant’s charcoal grill.



Tuesday, 4 November 2014

The Diner

Peanut Butter Milkshake. #NyumNyumNyum
"The Peanut Butter Milkshake at the newly opened diner, aptly called, um, The Diner, has negated my need to find romantic, spiritual and professional fulfillment. All three have disappointed me at some juncture in life, but not this little eatery at the juncture of Arbuthnot road. That soft brown liquid emulsifying at the bottom of the glass - it's also how I retain my brown."


- P.Ramakrishnan, Editor


More on The Diner here.

Friday, 17 October 2014

Mr Simms Olde Sweet Shoppe opens in HK

Say goodbye teeth, hello cavities. Mr Simms Olde Sweet Shoppe has just opened in Central, Hong Kong. On Lyndhurst Terrace by the HSBC ATM. Thrilled beyond belief. A bit pricier than the UK, the "olde" world charms intact, (junk) foodies among us are thrilled about the terrific-calorific "shoppe" opening.


Monday, 5 December 2011

Can't Curry Love: An exclusive chat with Restaurateur Sarika Jhunjhnuwala

The Interview 
Crave Magazine, December 2011

Restaurateur Sarika Jhunjhnuwala explains how lessons learned in her first venture, Veda, helped make Cafe O a success. 

Text by P.Ramakrishnan 
Portrait by Leila Cranswick
Location: Café O, Central 

Elegant, enigmatic and a total foodie, despite her delicate frame, businesswoman Sarika Jhunjhnuwala  owns several eateries in Hong Kong, including five Café Os, Spice Box and the now-closed Indian restaurant, Veda - a favourite of any connoisseur of high-end Indian food. 

For Jhunjhnuwala, restaurants should be a feast for all the senses, with the aesthetics and textures of the décor, the choice of music and the aromas wafting from the open kitchens as important as the flavour of the food itself. 

“Food is not just the art of eating, it’s an experience, a multi-sensory experience,” she says. “When I look back to my earliest, fondest memories, I think of food from my mum’s kitchen. It was simple vegetarian Indian food – my family was very orthodox Hindu – the vegetables were all grown organically using cow dung in our backyard. I still have those flavours in my soul, my mouth.” 

Raised in a palatial house in Hisar, in the northwestern Indian state of Haryana, Sarika made an arranged marriage to Girish Jhunjhunwala, a watchmaker turned Hong Kong property magnate who owns the Ovolo group of hotels and serviced apartments. She swapped Hisar for Pok Fu Lam, ramping up the luxury levels in the west Hong Kong Island suburb with glittering Diwali soirees, serving exquisite dishes on silver platters.

That combination of glamour and delicious food evokes the glory days of Veda, once one of the most fashionable and highly rated Indian restaurants in Hong Kong. 

“I have all the press clippings of every review of Veda,” she says, when we meet at Café O’s Central flagship. “And I’m still deeply touched by it. Veda was a dream project of mine and it was a hard decision to close it.” 

The shutters might have come down on Veda two years ago, but the memory, like the aroma of a succulent chicken makhani, lingers. “When I look back on it, I am still proud of it. We got great write-ups and had genuine fans. But I learned from the closure of Veda. Price point and location are key. And Indian food was seen as an indulgence; Western and local palates didn’t come for Indian cuisine on a daily or regular basis. “Perhaps the restaurant [on Arbuthnot Road] was a little too hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Central, and our prices a fraction higher than what’s expected for an Indian dish,” she says now, twirling the straw around her smoothie. “But the quality was vastly higher. We had fresh, organic vegetables; we had healthy options. Meals were freshly made – there was no storage of old items, even the spices and mixtures were freshly ground in the kitchen for the day, for that authentic feel. With our open kitchen, anyone could see the quality and effort on every plate.” 

As for the food – which included an intoxicating paneer and spinach curry that still makes the mouth water – for that, she credits someone else. “Chef Rajiv Gulshan is my favourite chef,” Jhunjhunwala declares. “His passion and knowledge I have yet to see in any other chef I have met or worked with.”
But there has been life after Veda. What started as a footnote has opened a whole new chapter. “The buildings my husband owned needed something at street level that was elegant, warm and welcoming. When we first opened Café O, it was a novel concept: a hybrid of a café and a restaurant that served healthy, quick dishes.

“There are no trans-fats; we have fresh ingredients, simple dishes like a quick thin-crust pizza or a take-away samosa. Now there are five more Café Os all around the city. Honestly, I didn’t think it would be such a big hit so quickly. But life is full of surprises.” It comes as no surprise, however, to learn that she enjoys cooking herself. “I love to cook if my time allows. I am not much of a recipe person, I like to just mix things from my pantry and create whatever comes out of it. It is relaxing and very satisfying,” she says. “I’m one of four brothers and five sisters and coming from a traditional family, all of us sisters learned to cook.” 

Any disasters? “This one time, my father bought a strange novelty gadget from a city and I got electrocuted when I tried to make a dish. Got the shock of my life. The entire thing, which must have been quite expensive, was thrown out. Cooking-wise, no major disasters. But electronically, yes!” 

Pick up Dec 2011 issue of Crave Mag NOW! On newsstands as of last week!


My Favourite Things with Sarika Jhunjhunwala 

Crave: What’s always in your fridge or pantry? 
Sarika: Lots of fruits and homemade chilli chutney, which I have with every meal – I carry it with me when I am travelling. There are very few dishes that go with everything, but this one does. 

Favourite Indian dish? 
Although I’m a vegetarian, I would recommend spicy lamb vindaloo or a mild chicken makhani [butter]. For vegetarian kaali daal (black lentil curry). 

Favourite drink? 
Lassi flavoured with ginger and honey. Or freshly squeezed lemonade with a touch of green chilli. Try it, just that little touch gives a simple drink a kick. 

Favourite savoury dish? 
Baked samosa or wholewheat pizza from Café O, of course. 

Top five restaurants in the world? 
Asia de Cuba in Los Angeles, Nobu New York, Otto in Hong Kong, Cinnamon Club in London, Bukhara in Delhi and La Lucciola in Bali. 

Favourite food destination? 
I have had the best time eating in Sydney. There are some very creative chefs Down Under who are challenging the way we make traditional dishes. And when I went to Bali recently, I had a great dining experience and found again that they were Aussie chefs.


Saturday, 22 October 2011

Kitchen Confidential: Andrew Kinoshita


When it comes to designing the perfect kitchen, architect Andrew Kinoshita says form should follow function… with a nod to the maid.

Text by P. Ramakrishnan



Pick up Crave in newstands/all good bookstores NOW!

Wednesday, 21 September 2011

Mix and Match

G.O.D co-founder Douglas Young put the kitsch back into our kitchens. He talks to Crave about dining culture, stew and the trouble with rhubarb.

Text: P.Ramakrishnan

June 2011 issue of Crave magazine.


Friday, 17 June 2011

Claudia Shaw: Chanel in the Kitchen? Crave magazine food feature

Known for her impeccable sense of style, Claudia Shaw’s elegant approach to fashion is reflected in the way she cooks. She talks to Crave about her cookbooks and her culinary passion.

Text by P. Ramakrishnan
E-mail: ramakrishnanp @ hotmail dot com 

With her toned legs and elegant frame, her distinguished lineage – she is the grandniece of media mogul Sir Run Run Shaw – and her association with luxury brands, Claudia Shaw’s credentials as a socialite and fashionista are impeccable.

Her appearances in the social pages of magazines are so frequent one wonders if she could ever have time to do anything other than glide beautifully into Hong Kong’s most glamorous functions.

But with the publication of Delicious and then Too Delicious, two wonderfully instructive cookbooks written by Shaw with her friend Dominica Yang, she has revealed another facet to her existence – a passionate love affair with good food.

The books were publicised by word of mouth with all proceeds going to charity. They have been a roaring success in shops across the city.

And listening to Shaw waxing lyrical about cooking, it is not hard to understand why.

“I have dishes coming out of my ear. I can’t tell you about how much I love good food,” she says.

This love, it transpired, was shared by her friend Dominica Yang and the idea for the book came about over lunch when the pair discovered, through their backgrounds, that they had hundreds of recipes up their sleeves. And the magic was in their simplicity.

“Dominica and I were chatting about how much we both loved cooking and we said, we’d love to put out a cookbook, why don’t we just do it,” she says.

“It’s basically all the stuff that we would make at home, recipes from friends, parents, grandparents – we don’t even know where they all originated from, but in every page, we have dishes that we always make at home.

“Everything is tried and tested by us. For years these have lived with us in our homes and basically it’s food from around the world, Western and Asian, that’s what we eat.”

As you find with most culinary fanatics, the seeds of Shaw’s obsession with good food were sown in her childhood.

“Both my grandparents were great cooks, my mother is a wonderful cook. My father’s side is a family of foodies as well, and my brother is a great cook. We talk about food, we discuss meals, we get together on weekends over food – it means a lot.

“Coming home as a child has a lot of food memories for me. We had a Chinese cook who would always ask: ‘What would you like?’ when we got home. A cookie, or wonton, or any local dish of choice.”

These memories and sheer determination to bring the book out helped Shaw and Yang overcome their lack of knowledge about the publishing industry to make a success of the idea.

And, for anyone unfamiliar with them, they are gorgeous to look at, filled with delectable images.

“Every photo in the book was shot in two days, all 60 dishes,” she recalls. “It was a like a factory, all those dishes were made, shot and then they went off to everyone we knew – the photographers, the photographer’s girlfriend, anyone who walked in.”

With so many recipes to cook at home it might seem surprising that Shaw ever eats out but she, like most of us, has her views about Hong Kong’s restaurants.

“It’s sad that Hong Kong doesn’t have enough quirky places where you can get really good food in a lovely venue that’s not in a hotel atmosphere,” she says.

“I’m not a big fan of Soho or Lan Kwai Fong. Nor are my friends. Jimmy’s Kitchen is nice and so are the usual upmarket places like Caprice and Robuchon. For good food, there’s also Kee Cluband Crystal Jade.

“Rent here is so high and there are some great cooks out there who would like too pen up a place, but they can’t make it because of the criminal overheads. Once you’ve sorted rent out, how can you possibly make a profit?”

It’s unlikely these challenging circumstances for budding Hong Kong restaurateurs will change in the short term. In the meantime, the home cooking revolution continues to gather pace – thanks inno small measure to books like Shaw’s two cookbooks.

Read the entire feature here at Crave magazine.

Friday, 3 June 2011

Paris, Je T'aime



For Francophiles and lovers of art, opera, music and dance, fashion, food and wine, there's nothing quite like Le French May, the annual celebration of all things French. Hong Kong plays host to some of the best acts from France, so here's P.Ramakrishnan's sneak peek at the highlights of what's coming up.


Saturday, 14 May 2011

A Matter of Taste: An exclusive interview with Culinary Legend Pierre Gagnaire in Hong Kong

Even for France’s history of fine chefs, Pierre Gagnaire has made a special name for himself. Crave meets the culinary legend and learns how his global reach has not altered how he judges good food.

Text by P.Ramakrishnan, images courtesy of Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

I am sitting with the legendary French chef Pierre Gagnaire at the bar in his restaurant Pierre at the Mandarin Oriental hours before the first customers arrive. Outside the rain is pelting down and Hong Kong is not looking its best. But Gagnaire, ever the gentleman, is speaking generously of the city.

Aside from his restaurant in Tokyo, this is his only establishment in Asia and he clearly has an affection for this city.

“It was the right time, and the right place,” he says of his decision to open a restaurant here. “There was another restaurant at the top floor of the Mandarin before. It was great, so I never thought I would open here but the right opportunity arose. In my career, the right timing has always come along.”

With his suave good looks and gallant demeanour, one feels Gagnaire, 60, could have cut it as a movie star had he turned his hand to acting. Fortunately for the culinary world, he applied his immense gifts to cooking and his story is one of almost unblemished success.

Born in Apinac, in France’s Loire Valley, by the age of 18, he was already a commis chef and within two years he was a cook admiral on the French submarine Surcouf. During the 1970s, he travelled the world, returning to France to work at Clos Fleury, a restaurant run by his father near Saint Etienne. He was honoured with his first Michelin star in 1977, which enabled him to go solo and open a restaurant in the centre of Saint Etienne. In 1986, a second Michelin star followed for a different restaurant, and in 1993, the coveted third star.

Now he is the holder of multiple Michelin stars and has restaurants all over the world (Paris, London, Tokyo, Las Vegas, Seoul, Dubai and Hong Kong). Such is his reputation internationally, the French government bestowed him the grand title of Commandeur des Arts & Lettres.

But ask him to recall his early days and there are no misty-eyed recollections. “I absolutely hated working in the kitchen when I was young,” he tells me.

“The restaurant business is a terrible business. Everyone worked from dawn to late night – early morning, in fact. Everyone was busy running here and there. And then the restaurant failed.” His venture in Saint Etiene eventually closed despite glowing reviews.

“I wasn’t planning a career in cooking,” he recalls. “The chef’s life was not good before. A lot of stress. The ambience was not good. You never see your family. No, I certainly didn’t like it at all.”

But while he might not have liked it, the French public most certainly liked his cooking. Besides the Michelin stars, he was asked to cook for a heads of state summit lunch at the Arche de la Défense during François Mitterrand’s presidency.

“I remember very well why the first restaurant failed – the city was too small,” he says of the Saint Etienne debacle. “The people were not ready for such high-end cuisine. I learned a lot from the closing of the first restaurant. This was more than 40 years ago. The customers were not there for fine dining. Yes, I do think we learn from our mistakes more than our successes.”

Gagnaire’s career took a turn for the better when he began a fruitful partnership with Hervé This, Collège de France professor and father of Molecular Gastronomy, in 2001.

It was during this period that Gagnaire really developed his culinary philosophy, which he describes as “mixing the old with the new, traditional cooking style with modern sophistication”. Hervé This helped him understand how the basic chemical compounds in food affects taste and how to develop a harmony of flavours.

A good example to be found on the menu at Pierre at the Mandarin Oriental is red mullet poached with garlic and lemon. This signature dish wasn’t just thrown at the wall to see if it would stick. There’s a refined science behind it: every element – from taste and texture, aroma and flavour – has been calculated right down to the harmony of the colours on the plate.

Ever modest, Gagnaire prefers to ignore such plaudits when we chat and says, “None of that matters; does it taste good? That’s all I essentially care about.”

Pierre
25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road Central, Central
Tel: 2825 4001

My Favourite Things with Pierre Gagnaire


1. Fine dining is an art. Would you agree?

Yes, but to me, food is an emotion. For me, what I serve is an emotion. I put a lot of attention into what I’m making. I’m nourishing someone, I’m feeding someone, I care about what I make.

2. Does the trend for organic, vegetarian and healthy food affect your menu?

Yes. But I’m lucky that I’ve always worked with natural ingredients. I can make an entire menu that’s purely vegetarian. This was years ago, way before the trend for organic food. In France, everything was organic. We worked with what produce was available to us.

3. Do you change your menus in your restaurant around the world to match local tastes?

No. Fine dining here is the same as fine dining in London or Paris or Las Vegas. Well, with perhaps a little less spice.

4. Which Asian culinary traditions do you admire?

When I travelled to Japan years ago, the food presentation there changed my way of thinking. Presentation became very important and it still is. But it’s always absolutely about the taste. You must get pleasure when you eat. That comes from taste. Hong Kong has choices which I like and an elegance.

5. Is fine dining the way to woo a woman?

It can be. Of course!

6. Is that how you seduced your wife?

My wife? She likes Thai food. Curries. And you know what I do! It’s completely different. But I’m glad my wife isn’t in awe of me and the cooking. You can’t have a balanced married life if a partner is in awe of the other.

7. What do you like to make and eat?

It changes every day, depending on the city I am in, my mood, the ambience … what I feel. You know what I want right now more than anything in the world? A glass of water with a slice of lemon. I’m a simple man.

Saturday, 5 February 2011

Top Host: Padma Lakshmi: Interview with Top Chef host, supermodel and actress Padma Lakshmi for food magazine Crave

The host of the Emmy-award winning reality show Top Chef, Padma Lakshmi has been a household name. Crave learns her preferences, her extraordinary palate and her adventurous approach to food.

Text by P.Ramakrishnan

It's hard to see past Padma Lakshmi's tabloid fame. She's a former fashion model who still looks stunning at 40, even with a one-year-old in tow. Her other accomplishments include part-time film and television actress, TV host, documentary filmmaker, author and producer.



Notes:



Pick up CRAVE Feb issue NOW!! Woo hoo. 

Interviewing one of 'the world's most beautiful people' was amaaaaaaaaazing. Its ridonculous how good she looks - and eats as much as she does and keeps that bod! Dayum! Fellow Keralite! =0) 

-- February 2011

Friday, 7 January 2011

Vintage Returns




The right wines can mature into a ripe investment, writes P.Ramakrishnan.

Wine is no longer merely a palatable refreshment. Now it’s also a collectible, seen as a potentially lucrative investment. These days, a sip of win could mean a dip into your portfolio, and names like Lafite, Latour, Margaux and Mouton-Rothschild should be sprinkled into conversation not just over dinner, but when mulling over your private collection with your financial advisers.

If you do have “grape expectations” and are hoping for vintage returns, there are some simple steps to consider when starting your own collection. “Decide if you are doing this for profit, investment or pleasure – to accumulate some special wines to share with friends and family in years to come. This will have a large influence on your actions,” says Greg De ‘Eb of Crown Wine Cellars, who has seen some of the finest collections in Asia.

Imagine you’ve joined Epicureans Anonymous and think of it as a step-by-step programme. “Focus on Bordeaux and Burgundy wines with a smattering of Californian greats. Concentrate on the good, recognised vintages - ’82, ’86, ’90, ’96, 2000, 2003, 2005 – in order to see the highest returns,” says De ‘Eb.

Like researching a stock tip, read up on the subject; for example the ratings guides like the ones published by Robert Parker – his 100-point wines are revered and coveted.

While you’re hitting the books, get a map. Think global gumption, and expand your horizons to lesser known areas but still acknowledged estates, such as Vega Sicilia, Spain; South Africa’s Vergelegen, Meerlust and Kanonkop; Moss Wood, Australia; wines from Douro in Portugal; Alba in Italy and California’s Napa greats.

“Keep them for as long as possible or buy them old and keep them longer,’ says De ‘Eb. “It is great fun to bring out wines with age at dinners and gatherings – especially if they have a story behind them. It shows that you have made an effort and love your wines.”

Viviane Weller, marketing and sales manager at Howards Folly, a private collection of wines available in Hong Kong, adds. “If you keep an eye on other people’s collections the world over – as there are wines that have been saved for years and should be ready to drink or invest in - you must check what is available to buy or exchange with what’ve got.”

When tough economic times loom, many collectors try to unload their stock;, liquidating (literally) their assets. “People start selling their wines to get money quickly and auctions are keenly observed,” says Weller. “Andrew Lloyd Webber’s collection will hit the docks in Hong Kong, and that has sparked a lot of interest among connoisseurs.”

At the Sotheby’s wine auction, on January 22 (2010), Webber plans to sell off 748 lots of fine wine. “There’s a lot of buzz among collectors for this auction as it includes cases of the first growths on the 2005 vintage, Petrus 2000, Cheval Blanck 1982. Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache, and Domaine Leflaive,” says Weller. “The stage producer and director’s fine taste in some rare and excellent vintages will be up on the ballot.”

And speaking of directors, finding your “direction wines” is a key step for all aspiring connoisseurs. It tells what styles of wine, varietals and countries of origin you enjoy most.

“Try individual bottles of different ages to find out how they will hold up to ageing, and then align your purchases accordingly,’ advises De ‘Eb. “Only then go out and buy cases.”

New collectors can also make sophomoric mistakes. “Do not drink the wines too young; this is equal to eating unripe fruit,” say De ‘Eb. “Never buy wines that have been stored incorrectly; wine is a living product and will die if not properly kept. This is like having fresh eggs in the boot of your car for two weeks – they will still look okay but you do not really want to open them and see what’s inside.”

Although there seems to be an overwhelming crop of wines being sold in online auctions, websites and forums, never buy wine “blind”. There are many questions to ask vendors, from requesting photos and descriptions of the wine’s condition to inquiring about its history – where it comes form and how it was kept. It only takes one rotten grape to end up with vinegar.

“Do no simply accept the ‘It comes from a great cellar in Europe that is kept at 13 degrees’ line” says De ‘Eb. “This is usually nonsense.”

Once you’ve secured your taste, then comes the question of storage.

“Being a boring traditionalist, I have a good two-bottle cooler bag for my whites and a sturdy leather clad hard two–bottle case for my reds,” says De’Eb. “This serves my dinner transport needs. As for home wine-bottle holders – definitely a no-no, stylistically and functionally. A cold, dark place, and keeping your wines in a cardboard box is much better.”

But for serious collectors, dramatic measures are often taken. A property magnate in Hong Kong’s South Bay, for example apparently decked his basement with a state-of-the art temperature control room, designer bottle caverns; complete with colour-coordinated library efficiency, a password–protected door and a nanny cam recording ins and outs.

It’s a multimillion dollar effort, and yet believe it or not, this still read dilettante on the oenophile table. “Only store your great, collectible, high-value wines in professional facilities with exceptional security, 100 per cent insurance, HKQAA Fine Wine ratings and substantial financial backing” says De ‘Eb.

Although Webber’s older wines were cellared at Sydmonton Court, his 16th-century home in Berkshire, his newer wines (worth almost US$8 million) were kept in professional storage. “If you do not do this, you will discover with a shock at the time of selling that your precious wine is worth only a fraction of what you thought it would be,” says De’Eb. “Overall, the correct conditions are critical to the long term enjoyment of your wine.”



NOTE:
Out today! With the daily edition of South China Morning Post, in Style magazine.

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Club Reviews: Halo, Lei Dou and Mink

On Halo-'ed Ground

Words: P.Ramakrishnan

I’m not sure if there’s a point in plugging this hot number. A sister club to the similarly hip Volar, Halo’s got the glow of a minty new hot spot for those who’ve got serious cash to throw at a barkeep. Just last January did this spectacular looking “private club” open at a non-descript street in Central and without having hosted a celebrity and/or supermodel studded party, this hot spot is illuminating the dark pleasure of nocturnal, nefarious, notorious revelry at its finest in the 'Kong.

Just one trouble with this place. You can’t get in. Unless you’re a member. Or know one. Or know the owner or... you get the gist. If you’re not part of the elite “in within”, there’s just no point in standing outside while you see a stream of model-lites saunter in while they tell you – the average philistine with gravity-defying-hair-courtesy-of-a-Toni&Guy-ad-inspired-coiff-and-copious-gel – that the place is booked up.

Fortunately for me, I know a member, and a co-owner, and the night I was permitted entrance was the night I was part of singer/diva Rijan’s entourage. Down a risky flight of stairs, a goth-black underground Chateaux awaits. Whisked off to a private atrium (the theme being a subterranean house of leisure and pleasure; there’s a living room, library, garden room and so on enfolded within the cavernous space), as this is the place that requires a retina scan at the entrance before you’re allowed in (so you can’t even haggle at the door/flash a tit to get in), THEY know you’re coming and a place is reserved for you. FYI, reservations are required. And they don’t kid about that as on weekends, its jam-packed, vacuum-sealed-with the trendy “it” folks.

Seated at the library, we saw Peter Cheung, a marketing mastermind behind the biggest luxury brands in Asia, and his impossibly fashionable shadow walk in.  Upon a quick meet’n’greet, he sends over a complimentary bottle of champagne to our corner (Peter’s also the uncrowned king of social decorum). Again, if you need to double check the price tag of a bottle of Krug on the menu, this is not the place for you.

Filled with dark promises as the creatures of the night come out at their radiant best, its also the place to find your average Asian popstar rush in amongst hushed tones as they set up camp in their private enclaves. You need to be over 25 to enter (but they’re a bit lax on that rule if you're a model citizen) and as the crème de la crème order the entire contents of page three on the menu, sit in the warm glow of the haves, and people watch; its seeing sheaths of your average tabloid come alive.

Oh its good to know someone, who knows someone in a city like Hong Kong.

Halo
Lower Ground Floor, 10-12 Stanley Street, Central
Tel: 2810 1274
Operating Hours: Monday to Friday Doors open at 5pm
Saturday Doors open at 9pm
Sunday Closed
Kitchen last call at 00:30am every night (except Sunday)



Lei Dou

To escape the general irk of Lan Kwai Fong (far too hot, humid and peopled on weekends as every bar strewn street can be), Rebecca Walker, the gorgeous editor of the hip local publication taxi escorted me to Lei Dou last weekend. It’s right in the heart of LKF and for love nor money would you find it unless you were personally taken there on the arm of someone as in-the know as Ms Walker, who collects such invaluable data for her monthly publication.

“I just love this place,” she said while we walked up a slightly creepy and dodgy nameless building, after a poorly lit alleyway sheltered us from ‘Beerfest’ that raged on just a few steps away. “Come on, it's cool, it’s clean and the people are lovely!”

Er... right. 

Getting flashes of my last trip to the seamier side of Mongkok, where my sister wanted to buy a fake Bottega Veneta bag and a cigarette lipped man led us down a blind alley and up a cranky lift to an even dingier apartment, littered with every possible fake-designer dud. "Strangled by a plastic Gucci belt" the headlines would read I envisioned. Similarly, up a flight of stairs with a far more attractive specimen leading the way, we stood in front of a large black door, again, no sign or indication of what’s ahead and that familiar ominous silence followed the knock.

“And the drinks are reasonable,” she concluded while I pictured asphyxiation and bulb-lit mugging.

Wait… rewind that. Reasonable drinks in LKF? You had me at Hello!

Like a large living room with a generous bar, a fake fireplace, little corners with plush sofas and overstuffed chairs, this dimly lit cocoon is clearly a second home to its clientele. Lei Dou is not quiet a private club but it surely feigns to be, as the cloisters of finely feathered folks (there was a birthday bash we seemed to have gate crashed that night with a fedora theme) seemed to acknowledge each other with hearty hellos.

Signature martinis, decent collection of Australian wines, cool and comfortable with a none-too-shabby menu, knowing you’re in the heart of Central, yet away from the vast sweaty crowd below sure has its benefits. If you need me on a Friday after six, you’ll find me at my non-private-club, which is happy to let anyone in.

Lei Dou
D’Aguilar Street
Central
Tel: 2525 8276

Mink

“There’s a talk at Mink about how to pleasure your partner,” said a voice on the mobile. Already I’m groaning. “Its Kamasutra on the rocks babe! Drinks included!”

Well, all right. So my mates and I clop along Hollywood Road, dotted with carpet shops, art galleries, short-lived bars with dozens of people corresponding with antique shops with nary a patron (and yet somehow they last forever), Indian restaurants, and the like, to find the newly renovated Mink left wide open for our grand, albeit hesitant, entrance.

A gaggle of gals listening to a ‘coach’ on what to and not to do in the bedroom…kitchen, living room, or whatever rocks your boat. For $30 happy hour prices, after a few, it was all white noise and laughter, and really what more does one want on a Tuesday after work?

As Mink is between a slew of other bars, to keep its chin up, there’s always some event, promotion, deal, music-DJ-food-talk-cocktail strewn happening, but it really just boils down to atmosphere and service and fortunately for them, the place has got all the right ingredients.

Speaking of which, the house specialty, according to the press release we got, is the Peppered Mink Martini; a blend of pepper infused vodka, seared pineapple, caramel liqueur and lemon - and if that wasn't enough, it's garnished further with cracked pepper. 

As I oft heard that evening, “Nice... if you’re into that sort of thing.”


Mink
UGF, Au’s Building, 19 Hollywood Road, Central
Tel: 3171 1989.


UPDATE: Not sure if any of these mentioned bars survived as I write this sentence in 2014!

Tuesday, 30 November 2010

Chef Yuzuo Han: Mumbai's Famed Chinese Chef speaks to South China Morning Post

Grand Hyatt Mumbai chef Han Yuzuo isn't bothered about Bollywood, he just wants to be the best, writes P.Ramakrishnan.
All pictures: Sayan Sur Roy

"For Chinese cuisine in India, walk right up to the Grand Hyatt and ask for the chef," recommends Shobhaa De, prolific Indian author and columnist. "It's wonderful - more importantly, authentic."

Han Yuzuo, 28, is the head chef at China House, the Mumbai hotel's Chinese restaurant, which is a favourite of the Bollywood crowd and Chief Executive Donald Tsang Yam-kuen, when he's in town.

"I really wouldn't know an Indian celebrity if I was meeting them," Han says. "The staff always tell me, so-and-so star is here. It doesn't bother me as I'm working. There's no major difference between serving an actor or anyone else. Perhaps we do a bit more decoration, but the food is the same.

"My concerns are all kitchen related; vegetables and sauces. Indian vegetables are very different from the ones we use in Chinese food, so that's what I worry about the most. I get sauces and fresh vegetables air-cargoed in. I get excited when the items come to the hotel straight from the airport, and sauces from Beijing and Hong Kong are ordered specially. Leafy vegetables, bean sprouts, Chinese cabbage, fungus, mushroom, lotus plants - small ones [the Indian ones are too big] - come in, I get excited about the meal plan for the day."

Originally from the Dongbo district of Sichuan province, Han has worked for the Grand Hyatt chain for almost a decade, in several cities around the world, and has been in Mumbai for two years. Having become an apprentice chef at the age of 16, Han attended culinary college and obtained his professional certificate in 2001, then the Chinese Cooking Technician Certificate the following year.

"In China, in my hometown, there are seasons; winter, spring, summer and autumn, so we co-ordinate menus according to what's in season, make meal plans according to the weather. In Mumbai, it's always hot. Or it's very hot," he says, with a laugh. "But I'm getting used to it. The menu changes three times a year and I do that according to what produce is available.

"I have many Chinese and Indian friends here in Mumbai so, even though my wife, sister and family are back in China, I don't get lonely. I get homesick only during the Chinese festivals as they are not celebrated in India.

"It's not difficult living in Mumbai, most people are friendly. I don't speak any Hindi - it's very tough - or English. With my Indian friends, it's a lot of acting and hand movement to make them understand. It works.

"There are many Indians who learn Mandarin, so they come here and ask for me and I talk to them after their meal. Or they request to see me before as they want to order in Mandarin. It is fun for them and me."

What's truly foreign to the tongue, of course, is the taste of India. "Sichuan food is spicy, so is Indian, but it's a different spice," Han says. "Preparation is long, that's the main difference. I see my Indian colleagues preparing dishes and it takes hours and the smells are very strong. Chinese food is made much faster, food is tossed in and out of the wok quickly - but curries have to marinate for a long time. And the temperatures are very high, which I don't understand."

Working six days a week, Han's routine rarely changes.

"My mornings are not very rushed. Around 11am I go to the kitchen; just before the lunch rush hour, I'm here," he says, pointing to a spotless open kitchen that's in a glass bubble in the middle of the restaurant.

"Off-duty, I go out to see Mumbai. Like China, India's a country with a rich history - so that's exciting to see.

"I started as an apprentice chef and learnt from great teachers. I want my cuisine to be known as the best, not just in the restaurant I work in, but in the region."


POSTSCRIPT:

Mumbai is a marvel and especially the people I've met there. Many thanks to the fab photographer Sayan Sur Roy for working around his busy schedule for a portrait shot. Wanted a picture to display a Chinese chef who's working in India. Getting the Natraj in the background for this shot conveyed what I needed in a very simple click. Love it.

Have to also say, the team at Grand Hyatt Mumbai were fantastic, arranging the translator, the chef to come in on a weekend, the pr team following up on emails back and forth... all turned out well, after a few initial hiccups. The hotel's gorgeous too.

Outtakes from the shoot.


Portraits by Sayan Sur Roy.

Thursday, 25 November 2010

Zuma




Location, location, location. When you’ve got Gucci on one side, The Mandarin Landmark hotel on the other, as we stepped out of the cab, tailing a navy, chauffer-driven Bentley, I knew that the opening night of Zuma was going to be a hot one.

With Nobu being across the pond (its no secret that Hong Kong islanders HATE to cross the ocean to Tsim Tsa Tsui – even if the tunnel ride is but 20-minutes away), Japanese restaurant/bar Zuma’s going to be the new place to be caught by the paparazzi.

Though having unlocked the doors a few days ago, Zuma’s official mega-bash opening was just somethin’ else! With Pansy Ho, eldest daughter and heir-apparent to Asian billionaire Stanley Ho, leading the way, society staples like Mira Yeh (I’m not sure what exactly she does, apart from “being fabulous” as one of the PRs said that night), Hong Kong’s illustrious Indian family, the Harilelas, and the usual faces that litter Hong Kong Tattler and the Forbes rich list attended in full force. With Oscar nominee-Coco Lee (the ϋber-hot chanteuse best known for singing the tracks of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon) sauntering in with her latest beau, everything about the evening was coated with stardust. The drinks flowed freely (Crystaaaal no less) at the open bar, but the canapés pirouetted around the duplex restaurant-cum-bar were difficult to reach; they may be in diamonds and mink but send a penguin suit with a tray full of delectables, and suddenly vultures descend.

No idea what the food’s like, but having seen the skeletal socialites clacking their six-inch Manolos up and down the luminous stair-case, perhaps that’s the general idea.

Zuma
The Landmark Atrium
Level 5 & 6
15 Queens Road
Central
Hong Kong
www.zumarestaurant.com


798 Unit & Co


Food editor at South China Morning Post, Susan Jung, once said to me, “Pasta is really cheap,” in her deliciously crisp voice. “So if you go into a great Italian restaurant but the portions are ridiculously small, then it isn’t that great a restaurant.”

To walk into this “open” restaurant at the 12th floor of Times Square (the one in Hong Kong, not New York! This city manages to make copies of famous monikers too), you might get lost trying to find the place as there’s no billboard or sign indicating the name of the restaurant/bar as you step out of the lift. Encased in a glass case, well, glass walls, I hate to reveal this un-hidden gem to anyone; its just so damn good.

The house red is alarmingly affordable and alarmingly good. The simple menu with its succinct selection is reasonably priced (otherwise a contradiction of terms in this city – you can pay HK$92 for a cup of tea if you’re not careful in this dang place) and its complete lack of pretension – be it in its décor, food, service, style – makes it worthy of a Michelin. A great place to sit and munch after work, the ties are loosened under the soft-glow of this new hangout for some severely designer-clad folks (the main offices of many luxury brands are floors above). Where else can you find a HK$6,000 LV belt-clad babe buying a $60 cup of vino?

798 Unit & Co
12/F
Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
www.798unit.com
Tel: (852) 2506 0611
Opening Hours: 12-12


Pop Bites


Although I’m deeply suspicious of how long this latest venture will last, Pop Bites, conceived by celebrated Hong Kong restaurateur and designer Calvin Yeung, has a certain buzz going for it, among the esoteric and eccentric folks that trade in urban chic.

In collaboration with dance and music maven Yvonne Siet-Wong and the celebrated spinner/cable TV star DJ Wong Chi Chung, the idea behind the latest eatery/drinkery is to “eat, drink and make merry music” till the cops come home! Which shouldn’t take long, as the old Central Police Station is right across the road from this restaurant/ice-cream parlor/fine wine hub/music & DJ haunt.

A much more sedate alternative to Lan Kwai Fong, which is a sweaty street below, with thematic parties and events (Bjork Nite! Abbey Road evening and so on), this little place is definitely for music lovers, who can chat with the visiting DJs while sipping a fine Merlot from the extensive stock of Yeung’s private collection.

With the lords of folly and follicle (what? You can’t be a DJ with ‘normal’ hair) ambulating about, there’s a vestige of cool (that’s ‘kwl’ for those inclined to text lexicon) in the lair, the air… I just didn’t fit in! Anyhoo…

Its, its… well, for the lack of better word, cute. Ice-creams are labeled Strawberry Fields Forever (a pink berry flavoured dessert), Aloha Paradise (Coconut Almond Fudge Chip) and U2 Rocks (Dublin Mudslide) and so on, there’s soothing mint-tea specially concocted for Pop Bites served on Balinese platters. Stylist Kristin Flanagan once said to me, judge a wine bar by how good their glasses are (apparently they have to be large, voluminous goblet-like crystal and not paper-cups or Ikea samples) so the place got marks immediately for their selection of cutlery and China.

Said Yeung at the opening party, “I wanted a place that was different from others around Central, a place where I myself would like to come and eat – and this is the place where you’ll see me from now on.”

The idea of a harmonious environment – aided with top DJs spinning tunes, a CD station where shoppers can listen to their own selection, a Technicolor video wall, its an entertainment venue as much as it is a restaurant.

Its hard not to be taken in by Yeung’s contagious enthusiasim, “The venue will be a place for creative exchanges”, he says. “We’ll invite pop singers to share their latest work, and we’ll host art-related events. The major difference between Pop Bites and our two previous concepts is that this place offers a channel for people to enjoy creative talents.”

Any place that offers alternatives to the vocal stylings of canto-pop, Aqua (hasn’t the song I’m a Barbie girl died everywhere else? Apparently not in HK clubs) and Bee Gees remix (ok its cool after some… er… herbal electives), gets my hard-earned-dollar.

Pop Bites
Opening Hours: 8:30am till 11pm, daily.
Location: UG/F, No. 3-5 Old Bailey Street, Central, Hong Kong.
Tel: (852) 2525 4141

Eating Out: TGI Friday's: Restaurant Review:

2.5 out of 5 stars. 

At TGI Friday's there's more to be said about the atmosphere than the food but on a Friday night, perhaps that's just what you're looking for. Music, lights, sports, beer and uncomplicated meals that require no explanation. The formula has worked - ever since opening its first store in New York in 1965, it has expanded to 650 branches in 52 countries. It was launched as a singles' bar for the partying 20-somethings from the swinging 60s, but times have clearly changed, even if the furnshings have not.

With balloons, multicoloured fake Tiffany lamps over red-and-white striped tablecloths, walls festooned with relics (some might view them as varnished trash, others, interesting curios) and brightly attired waiters - with suspenders holding big pins - Friday's screeches "theme restaurant", a humble ode for nostalgic Americans yearning for the golden days. \

The menu is huge, but there's nothing that's not available elsewhere - usually at a fraction of the cost. Grilled steaks, seafood, burgers of all kind, fajitas, pastas... it's the place to go to when you don't want any surprises. 

For our starter, my friend and I chose to share the vegetable fajitas ($88), which turned out to be the best dish of the evening. It might sound healthy, but it really wasn't - the fried, mixed chunky veggies (carrots, zucchini, peppers, onions etc) tasted amazing once in the fresh tortillas and smothered with guacamole, sour cream, cheddar cheese, tomatoes and salsa. 

For the main course, my friend chose the Jack Daniel's salmon steak ($168). The ample steak was surprisingly sweet and seemed to have been dippd in mild sugar water rather than Tennessee bourbon. My chicken alfredo ($128), a tasty, sliced grilled-chicken breast on a bed of creamy pasta, was pretty good - definitely more chicken than pasta, although the massive portion bordered on the ridiculous. 

We bypassed their famed Oreo-cookie delight and decided to share the mocha mud pie ($78) - a decadent serving of coffee ice-ream crusted with chocolate crumbs, almond slices and hot fudge. 


Dinner for two came to $620 (10 per cent service charge included). 
4-5 Floor, Oterprise Square, 26 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui 
Tel: 2368 2800 Open: Sunday-Thursday, 11:20am-midnight; friday and Saturday, 11.30am-1am. 
$$$ 

Published in South China Morning Post's short-lived weekly magazine;24/7. This was obviously written when TGIF first opened in Hong Kong. 

All prices in HKD - not to alarm the reader!

Monday, 1 November 2010

Eating Out: Cat Street Cafe: Dino's: Jhankar: Restaurant reviews for 24/7: South China Morning Post

Cat Street Cafe

Cat Street Cafe is split into two sections, the karaoke bar and restaurant. Unluckily, we arrived at 9.15pm - just after the karaoke kicked off and just before happy hour ended. Warbling wannabes screeched Canto-pop at the top of their voices while we sipped pre-dinner drinks that failed to pack a punch ($25 during happy hour, $40 at other times).

After that our waitress couldn't find a wine list, so we looked over laminated strips of paper that constituted the main menu and the waitress indicated which items were "sold out" - most of them.

Our starters arrived, soaked in grease, with shrivelled, shredded onion slices lurking at the bottom of my onion soup ($38). For the main course, we ordered a 10-inch pizza capricciosa ($98), which surprisingly came with pineapple (not listed in the ingredients ), which I am allergic to.

Our grand finale was the steak, with a side order of borderline sauce. The large slab of meat was rubbery, while the accompanying heavily oiled fries and florets of broccoli weren't worth wasting calories on.

Our bill came to $530 for two - a lot of money, considering the quality. At the end of the day, this is more karaoke bar than restaurant.

14-18 Laura Road, Wan Chai.
Tel: 2865 1008. Open:11.30am-3.30pm, 6pm-11pm, karaoke 9pm-late.
$$$

May 18 - May 24, 2001



Dino's

As it's part of the Harbour Plaza Hotel, you might expect this Italian eatery to be an impressive suit-and-tie affair. It's not. The convivial restaurant has two painted circus tents for the ceiling that shade just a few tables, while others are left victim to local weather conditions.

We started off with warm "Mama's minestrone" ($45) while sipping a well-priced red Montepulcianod' Abruzzo ($185 bottle). Olive oil lovers might relish the greasy bruschetta ($45) - warm bread topped with tomato, basil and garlic flavour.

My friend had a creamy roast cod steak ($110), delicious and perfectly cooked, but it came with a few bland potatoes and vegetables devoid of flavour. My Verdure pizza with a topping of grilled seasonal vegetables ($70) was also a disappointment, a textbook creation that tasted too plain. We skipped the deserts on offer 0 tiramisu, panna cotta and frozen sabayon (all $50).

Still, the marquee restaurant is popular - the fantastic view of Victoria Harbour is reason enough to keep Dino's busy. The bill for two came to $594, including service charge.

Address: Harbour Plaza Hotel, 20 Tak Fung Street, Hunghom.
Tel: 2621 3188.
Open: Sun-Thur noon-1am; Fri-Sat noon-2am.
$$$

Jhankar

Jhankar is yet another eatery in the overcrowded streets between Jordon and Yau Ma Tei. Serving mostly south Indian food with a few Thai dishes as well, it's easy to miss as it occupies the second floor of Double Set Commercial Centre, but even on a rain-lashed week night, the restaurant had a good turnout.

It's surprising because the interior isn't impressive; the stained and decrepit carpet, cheesy postcard-plastered walls, garish pink tablecloths and the Christmas-light festooned windows had my friend wanting to head for the exit. But by the end, we were glad we stayed.

We stuck with Indian dishes. A plain naan bread ($10), followed by a buttered one ($12) while we sipped our beers ($18), was a great way to start what became a feast. Our helpful waitress suggested a simple vegetable curry ($35) with the bread. We were glad she did, as it was the perfect accompaniment.

Patience is called for because as the menu indicated, each item is individually made and there's a time lag between dishes. Another serving of bread was in order so we tried the fantastic khurmi naan ($12). Warm and slightly charred, it was filled with garlic, tomato, chilli and served with a spinach yoghurt dipping sauce. It was a finger-licking delight and the highlight of the meal.

The main course - chicken biryani in basmati rice ($35) - was, unfortunately, a bit of an anti-climax. The rice and chicken were dry and bland, so we spiced it up with a delightful chicken korma - boneless meat marinated in seasoned yoghurt and curry ($48).

This is a backpacker's paradise. With generous portions at cheap prices, it's a winner when strapped for cash, starving and craving curry. The total with two beers and two soft drinks came to $149.

Address: 2/f Double Set Commercial Centre, 37a-37b Jordan road, Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon.
Tel; 9206 4134. 
Open: Monday-Friday 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight.
Saturday and Sunday 12.30am-midnight.
$

Thursday, 23 September 2010

A Matter of Taste: Pierre Gagnaire: Interview with a French Icon

Another day, another month, another dishy issue of Crave. Pick up NOW!

Even for France's history of fine chefs, Pierre Gagnaire has made a special name for himself. Crave meets the culinary legend and learns how his global reach has not altered how he judges good food.

Words: P.Ramakrishnan
Images: Courtesy of The Mandarin Oriental.

Full feature and interview in Crave magazine. 

Thursday, 26 August 2010

Personal Taste: Frederic Panaiotis: Winemaker at Veuve Clicquot

For Frederic Panaiotis eating and drinking at the best restaurants in the world is all part of the job. The Veuve Clicquot winemaker was in Hong Kong to introduce the 1998 vintage of his champagne at the Grand Hyatt.

When did you have your first taste of champagne?
I was one-minute-old. It's tradition in Champagne that when a baby is born, you put drop of champagne on his tongue to welcome him into the world.

Are you one of those who think the only real champagne is from Champagne?
Yes, of course. All the rest is just wine. People forget that champagne is essentially a wine with effervescence. Only what comes from the city of Champagne is the real thing.

Is Hong Kong a good champagne market?
Hong Kong is an excellent champagne market and there are some very passionate, crazy collectors here. In all of Asia, it's second only to Japan. All the wine geeks I've met in Asia have been from Hong Kong - it's wonderful!

Do you think champagne goes well with Chinese food?
You'd be surprised how well it mixes. I've had excellent meals in Yung Kee restaurant [in Central] and seafood goes really well with champagne. As long as the flavours of a dish don't overwhelm the taste of champagne, it's a happy marriage of flavours. Golden Unicorn [in the Marco Polo] is another restaurant where I had the best Chinese meal. Other places I like in Hong Kong are Petrus [at the Island Shangri-La] and the Oyster & Wine Bar at the Sheraton. In a restaurant, I'm really looking for an experience - the food, the setting and the service - and you get the best of that here.

What food goes well with certain champagnes?
With Hainan chicken, I would rink a vintage yellow label, with Peking duck, a rose champagne - it's fantastic. I was in Beijing a while ago and a chef created a menu to complement our vintage champagnes and it was exceptional.

Do you always have champagne with a meal?
It is the best way to start a meal! It puts you in a great mood and then you enjoy the experience.

What has been your worst dining experience?
I once had a very spicy meal that killed all the flavour in the wine. It was like a broken bone for an athlete, I had to recover from it! Artichokes, vinegar, bitter chocolate - all these strong-flavoured foods don't go with champagne, which is very delicate. Some people might like it but it's not to my taste.

On your travels, where have you had the best food and wine experiences?
In Italy, at La Bottega del Vino, I think it was the craziest and best of times. Italians take their food and wine very seriously and they like to have a good time at a meal. I won't tell you what happened [laughs knowingly], but it was a memorable evening. Les Crayeres in France is a favourite place of mine. The food is expensive but it is truly and consistently exceptional.

When did you decide to make a career from wine?
I remember exactly the time and the day. It was a Christmas party in 1982, at home, with my family. My uncle brought a bottle of Richebourg Burgundy, my other had prepared a white pheasant and I clearly remember being so happy at the time; the meal, the wine, everything was just perfect. I was just 18 years old and although I didn't make my exact career decision then, it was the first time I realised that wine was more than just a drink. I knew I would be in this field and not an accountant or something.

How big is your wine cellar?
My cellar has around 1,800 wines and I am most proud of my Veuve Clicquot 1959 - I am saving that for a special occasion.


Words: P.Ramakrishnan
Photo: South China Morning Post