Fashion four let clothes do the talking

Byline: P.Ramakrishnan. All images Courtesy: Dorian Ho collection.

As Hong Kong fashion week struts down the catwalk in style and stilettos, members of the Hong Kong Fashion Designers' Association (HKFDA) will present a preview of their latest collection to a select number of international buyers.

Between harried preparations for shows and clients, a fashionable foursome took the time to discuss their past collections and imminent ones.

LuLu Cheung: Many 20-somethings pay respect to this demure lady, whose affordable and wearable clothes (under the label "21 Lu") fly off shelves from seven boutiques.

Her clothes this season appear to reflect the designer herself - simple, elegant, youthful and fresh. Ms Cheung has been in the business for nearly two decades, but her work this season goes off in a tangent from her earlier nature- and floral-inspired designs.

This season, Ms Cheung turns to space for her inspiration and reflection.

"This collection will be really modern and the colours will be basics such as white, grey and black. My inspiration is from space and the sky. Clouds, rain, circular patterns, clean cuts, crystal."

Keeping with the theme of simplicity, the designer believes that cotton will never go out of fashion.

"It is pragmatic for the Asian climate, comfortable and easy to wash and wear - with slight delineations to cotton organza and various textures . . . the cloth will have a soft silhouette," she says.

"I've chosen lighter clothes for the spring season. Cotton silk for jackets and cotton mixed with wool for the spring line."

While previous collections were loaded with colourful print work and odes to vintage designs that mingled with modern-day cuts, the coming show will display a more structured and romantic look. Hence the theme has been labelled "Everlasting Melody".

Ika: Slapping a "Made in Hong Kong" title on Ika's clothes would ignore the essence of this pan-Asian designer. Hop-scotching around the region, Ika's inspiration from different lands and people have inspired her signature look, blazed with ethnic patterns and designs. But her latest collection deliberately moves away from this tradition.

"This collection does not present the ethnic touch. Instead it has the younger, feminine approach, play and treatment of fabrics," says Ika. "It is not an ethnic collection. My approach is more in handwork, embroideries, crochets, knits and so on, combined with lace."

Multiple hues and traffic-stopping colours are out as she opts for a soft palette with a splash of vivid colour to create a tasteful counterpoint to the norm. Look out for sea-greens to blue nuance, beige with a dash of earthy red or beige with smatterings of turquoise.

What remains constant are the accessories made from shells, stones, mini-bamboos for belts, sandals and bags, coconut chips engraved into the sandals. She still embraces the tropical and natural feel.

Quality is key and Ika is aware of her fastidious European markets. "I have used best-quality linen from China, synthetics from Taiwan and Korea, lace and pleats from Italy and France. The fabrics used are natural voiles of cotton and linen," she says.

Having recently rounded up the Bali fashion week, Ika is spreading herself thin, working much like a couturier sans frontier . When asked about local designers, she says: "I like Kevin Yeung for being a master of cuttings and pattern. Walter Ma for his creativity and popular appeal and Cecilia Yau for her clever European bitch taste, a mix of femininity and bitchy elegance."

Dorian Ho: When his creations are not being displayed by willowy models in Australia or during the 7th on Sixth fashion show in New York's Bryant Park, Mr Ho calls Hong Kong home.

Many are familiar with "Doriano", the self-proclaiming label sprinkled across 50 outlets in Hong Kong. Floral prints on loose-fitted tops over shimmering satin skirts are just part of his label's legacy and the designer has never been shy of using seemingly contrasting colours. Somehow, the melange works and works well enough to inspire his global market.

Changing tacks this season, Mr Ho steps back in time and ends up in the earlier part of the last century.

"I have been inspired by the 20s' and 30s' look and I am reminiscing the past. This work will be a portrait of, and a portrait to, My Fair Lady and range from casual to relaxed cocktail dresses, glamorous evening wear."

A Victorian elegance will feature in this season's silk, lace, fabrics that dominate Mr Ho's look. Last season was all about summer fun, the cruise line and a Tropicana atmosphere, diametrically opposite to Mr Ho's direction now.

Keeping his eye on the present craze and on vintage vogue, Mr Ho predicts that soft tones, ivory, champagne, beige, pinks, classic burgundy, brown, black will make impressions in the coming season.

"European styles are coming back. Floral prints, many patterns. The accessories I have used will also have an antique and vintage look."

French lace, silk chiffon, silk satin, tulle netting will be featured on catwalks as Dorian's range of cocktail evening wear will project feminine sensuality, the theme of the collection.

Grace Choi: It is the proverbial chicken and egg question: does Ms Choi garner inspiration from Hong Kong's youth or does the youth culture dote on her tailoring? Tough call, but it is easy to see the mass appeal of her work. The youth-identification does not hurt and her simple yet creative garments ride the trend waves well.

Presenting her early spring collection, Ms Choi aims directly at "high fashion for discerning young ladies".

She says: "The applied and the intricate embroidery, small patchwork and appliques will have a casual and hand-crafted feel. The silhouette will not be complicated."

Ms Choi says she has used a mixture of hand-knit and fabric together to create the garment. Some raw-edged and layered styling will also be featured for a more natural feeling.

"I think customers now are much more excited with very delicate artwork so I have used floral patterns and some geometrical patterns. They are a discerning market, aware of what is out there. Natural colours such as cream, reddish brown tones mixed with denim blue. It is easy to match colour and it is suitable for the dressed-down trend."

There will not be flashy accessories to corrupt the look; the only fashion appendages her models will have are stockings and simple sandals.

"I want to reflect the mood in Hong Kong at the moment - many are unemployed and unhappy, so the colours will be natural, not too cheerful and bright. On the other hand, I believe Hong Kong people are strong and I am sure we can face the problems and get our confidence back."


Published in South China Morning Post, 09.07.2002