Purple Reign: Designer Anna Sui: Interview in Hong Kong with an Asian Fashion Icon

Anna Sui has stood the test of time in the fickle world of fashion. she talks fairies and friends with P.Ramakrishnan.

Global citizen is an oft-misused term. But for designer Anna Sui, the words fit comfortably. "My parents were born in China, but they met in Paris, lived in Europe and then moved to the United States. I was born in the suburbs of Detroit and grew up on pop culture, television and rock'n'roll," says the eclectic creative. "Am I American or Asian? I think of myself as a global person, which in essence we're all becoming."

Sitting in a flower-festooned suite at the Four Season Hong Kong, Sui was in the city to launch Fairy Dance, the last installment in a trilogy of perfumes known as Secret Wish. Fairies make dreams come true, notes Sui. 

The launch represents yet another mini-milestone in what's been one long and rewarding career of them. Sui, whose exuberant designs meld influences as disparate as Victorian cowboy, Andy Warhol and Finnish textile print is among an elite to have received a lifetime Achievement Award form the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), whose lofty company includes Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Diane von Furstenberg. Named one of the "Top 5 Fashion icons of the Decade" [TIME}, her eponymous brand has grown to become a global fashion industry worth an estimated US$400 million by Forbes magazine. Comprising clothes, cosmetics, eye-wear, and accessories, along with her line of signature fragrances. Sui has more than 50 boutiques in eight countries and sells in over 300 stores in more than 30 countries.

Increasingly, and the irony is not lost on Sui, the potions have became brand enhancer and profit elixir, "Fragrance is the crown and glory of a design house," she says. "It can reach further than your clothing and fashion. People now think of me as a perfume; it transcends a real person."

Like any prescient creative Sui's wardrobe - worn by luminaries such as Sofia Coppola, Zooey Deschanel, and Kristen Steward - is the result of a wild mind and disciplined eye; she's equal parts fashion student and research shopaholic.

Her latest collection, inspired by illustrator and photographer Antonio Lopez, reflect that approach, "Lopez brought the excitement of New York fashion to Paris along with a bevy of models, and they invaded all of its nightclubs. He inspired people like Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. Because of Lopez, pret-a-porter was born and European designers wanted to do more immediate and younger fashion. There was vintage inspiration too. Women like Paloma Picasso and [model/actress] Marisa Berenson wore things from the flea market. All these influences exploded at this great time - and that was big inspiration."

Hence the intricate homage to vintage prints and sepia-tones that infuse the collection. "I love the way fragrance crates mood - so can colour. I constantly look at photographs, paintings and film from whichever period is influencing me and try to capture that colour and put it on the catwalk."

Appropriating from her own palette, Sui's collection also sees a return to flora and fauna with this collection. "For a few seasons I was trying not to do floral because people know me for it, but this season, it's all floral."

Fascinated as she is by narrative and cultural history, Sui's story is like a re-spun Cinderella of modern day mythology in which the evil stepsisters make way for a glamazonian supermodels. A graduate of New York's Parsons School of Design, she styled with photographer friend Steven Meisel, designed for sportswear companies and then launched her brand in 1980m which grew during the decade. So impressed were catwalk queen s Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista they encouraged - and then offered - to do Sui's first runway show in 1991 for free.

Sui, who still maintains contact with both, smiles at the recollections: "I don't see them as often as before because they don't do the shows. But I do see them, Naomi's boyfriend has a place in New York so we get together for dinners. Linda lives in New York some of the time so I run into her every so often. We were pals. I knew them more as friends than as models and we fostered a great friendship over the years."

The show's success saw Sui open her first store in 1992 on Greene Street in new York's Soho. With its vibrant mix of black Victorian furniture, purple walls, and rock'n'roll paraphernalia, it set the tone for all Anna Sui boutiques since.

Today's face of Anna Sui fashion, cosmetics and perfume is Swedish sensation Frida Gustavsson, a dream fit for Sui.

"Frida's the type of model that only comes along every so often, she wear s clothes beautifully and so gracefully and doesn't have to be retouched. She's perfect."

It's hard to feel anything but joy and warmth for Sui in the face of her passion and enthusiasm. Fairy and god-mother, fashion and dreamer, for one so ground she's high fantastical.

Symbol, Philosophy

Anna Sui's Fairy Dance is the third installment of perfumes under the title Secret Wish. "We wanted something that was light and fresh, the way the other fragrances were, but this one has an element of fruit: tangerine and mango," she says, as a voluptuous bottle, topped with a fairy cap mists the air. "We wanted to evoke sunshine, when you see the juice itself, it has a sunny glow to it. We tried to capture a summer festival feeling with roses, and rose gardens and fairies, laughter and friendship."

The seemingly lofty aspirations are grounded in reality, as Sui explains. "There's a festival I go to every summer in Cornwall, England, a long weekend where we celebrate life with music, literature and now there's a fashion element going on there. And I thought, why not do something inspired by all of that? All in all, it's about friendship. See in this whole theme, a fairy-tale element.

Fairies are the ones that can answer your dreams, which can make your wishes come true. So why not have the fairy as a symbol?"

Anna Sui

Creatve Force: Interview with Jeweller to the stars: Stephen Webster

Stephen Webster leads a double life as regal and racy jeweller, writes P.Ramakrishnan.

Designer to the stars and royalty, Stephen Webster creates jewellery collections with split personalities: one espousing glam-rock attitude, the other regal distinction and contrarian reserve. As such, he's the Jekyll and Gyde of high jewellery a playful practitioner of precious stones, two parts danger, and one part discretion.

The flamboyant designer shares something of the rock star glow. With pierced ears, long tresses, raspy baritone and electric wardrobe (leather pants, velvet jacket included), Webster could easily double for Mick Jagger. His chest cascades with chains and his fingers drip rings that bear racy rock'n'roll names like "Thorn", "Poison Apple", and "Seven deadly Sins".

Webster's double life is punctuated by a pair of Elizabeths; one a British monarch, the other, Hollywood royalty; "Though I never met her - and my god I would have loved to - Elizabeth Taylor is the first encounter with celebrity for my jewellery," says Webster as we mull over a treasure trove of his blinding jewels at Lane Crawford.


"My style is a  bit out there, very flamboyant, and I made this lavender-coloured stone, rose-gold ring," eh says. "the colour was an almost exact match to her [Taylor's] magical eyes. She commissioned a bracelet to go with it. This was back in 1984,. I never approached he, I've never had to approach any star, they found us. "


The second Elizabeth in Webster's universe is Britain's ruling monarch Queen Elizabeth. Webster trades rock for royalty as creative director for Garrard, the crown jewellers. "Working with Garrard has been interesting, educational. My two brands; one is 276 years old, full of heritage, and the backbone of Britain, and the other is so rebellious. I'm really a craftsman, it's about the fine art of jewellery. It's easy to get caught up in the rock 'n' roll element, but I'm into creating beautifully made jewellery and I add my identity and spirit to it." That style and spirit has made Webster a three-time winner of the British Luxury Jeweller of the Year award, and winner of UK Jewellery Brand 2008.

With a background in art school, Webster might have taken the fashion route, but fell in love with the intricate work that goes on behind the scenes of jewellery design. "I could always draw, I thought I'd go into fashion, but at 16, I saw incredibly beautiful signature pieces of jewellery in London and fell in love with them. It was the crown jewels and pieces at Garrard. It's funny how life works that I was asked to join the brand years later."

Webster, the man who counts Cristina Aguilera (as face and long-time model for his brand), Ozzy Osbourne and Madonna as clients, pauses for a second and then polishes off the thought: "I wasn't obsessed with the glitz and glamour - I was obsessed with being the best craftsman I could be. I apply that to everything I do and I think people understand that." More in Style magazine, visit scmp.com

Hong Kong's fit and fab talk to Style magazine about health and fitness: Brian Cha, Jocelyn Luko, Tony Mok

High achievers share their secrets for good health and pass on their tips for happiness and well-being. 

BRIAN CHA 

BRIAN CHA’S role is to keep the body beautiful; not just his own but those of some of the most notable names in media and screen. Fifteen years in the business, he’s the soul of discretion, keeping the roster of celebrity clients close to his chest. What separates a screen-star from your average Joe at the gym? 

“Usually celebrities have particular goals to reach in a shorter time frame,” says Cha. “They have to be on a film set in two months and be fighting fit; the timeline is set in stone."

Cha says variety is key to staying toned. :I’ve always mixed it up and I tell my clients to do the same. Don’t just run on the tread-mill; same-ness doesn’t work well in the long-run.” 

As people venture away for the summer holidays, a common pattern develops. “Yes, it’s a holiday but you can do simple things to stay active. Even if it’s playing basketball, beachball or something; just keep the body moving.” 

And celebrities have the same issues as the rest of us: not eating right, too many after-hour cocktails and a sedentary lifestyle. “I’ve seen this especially among the 30-something folks. They look so much older than their actual age. Just by cutting out all sugary drinks and beer you’ll see visible changes within two weeks – even with no exercise. And not just alcohol – there’s usually four spoons of sugar in just one glass of ice-tea.” 

Cha also advises on diet and nutrition, a vital part to any exercise programme. “Eat smaller portions at meal times. We grew up with the breakfast, lunch and dinner timetable. Actually, eating four small meals a day is better for your system. I don’t believe in avoiding food groups, but try and avoid carbs after lunch. 

According to Cha, one of the most common mistakes people make is believing that cardio workouts, such as running, will help solve the problem of belly fat. “Of course running helps, but appropriate weight training can help you get a washboard stomach quickly. Mindlessly running in circles isn’t as effective.” 

Each client has their own goal. All good trainers must design personalised programmes for their individual clients – and it’s a process of study and elimination.” 

Just before leaving Cha’s gym, we ask who his star student is at the moment and he lets a name slip. 

“Lately, model Mandy Liu has really impressed me with her discipline and dedication,” he says. “There is no easy way to get a body beautiful. It’s hard work!” 

FIT TIPS 

• “Start a weight training programme. Not just for aesthetics but also for health. You need to maintain strength as you grow older. 
• Change your workout routine every two weeks; do something different. 
• Eat! Do not deprive yourself – eat four small healthy meals a day.” 

JOCELYN LUKO 

IT’S ALARMING how good Jocelyn Luko looks without an ounce of make-up. Having just finished a run around the Happy Valley race-course with her DJ/model husband Anthony Sandstrom, there’s a sigh of relief that yes, she, like the rest of us, has to work to get that slim silhouette that’s made her one of the city’s most popular models. 

“After trying many different types of exercise I find that Pilates and Bootcamp at least three times a week works best for me,” she says. “Pilates tones and lengthens my muscles while re-aligning my body, and Bootcamp is great for burning fat and toning muscles because of the intense interval and cardio training. We do different forms of cardio and mix things up, so our bodies don’t get used to the same routine.” 

In a similar process of trial and error, Luko has also found what doesn’t work for her as she matures. “I used to be a huge meat eater and eat a lot of junk food but I realised how important food is for your body and I started eating healthy and doing cleanses,” 

But the life-changing – and perhaps career-changing – moment was prompted by an illness in the family. 

“Eight years ago my mum got sick and the importance of a healthy diet and lifestyle was brought home to us. Because of this experience we realised there is an increasing demand for natural health and wellness products that work. This is why we started our company Simple Pure Health." 

As passionate as she is about her business, she also maintains a balanced lifestyle. She has her own tips for getting fit but adds, “I believe the first step is taking care of your mindset. If you’re happy and confident it shows no matter who you are.” 

FIT TIPS 

• “It’s important what you put in your body. We always try and eat as healthily as possible. Whenever we eat we think, ‘Is my body going to thank me for this food?’ When I’m on vacation and I eat a lot of junk food it definitely shows on my face and body, even in my energy levels. 
• Exercise! You have to get your blood circulating and give your body a regular workout. In Pilates they say you’re only as young as your spine is flexible, and that’s so true. When I work out there’s a huge difference in not just my body shape but also the way I feel. 
• Take care of your skin. It’s very important to use natural products. Putting chemicals on your skin may make your skin look good initially but can be damaging in the long term.” 

TONY MOK 

REMARKABLY FOR a physician, Dr Tony Mok reckons he’s “a terrible example” for health and fitness, he says with a laugh. “I love food, love eating and I eat anything that tastes good,” says Mok, a professor in the Chinese University of Hong Kong’s Department of Clinical Oncology. 

Still, he doesn’t over-indulge. “The advice I give to others is one I exercise personally: ‘everything in moderation’.” 

When it comes to exercise, the good professor takes it step by step. “I started walking when my daughter was in primary school, she’s in college now. That has extended to now having regular, long walks on a daily basis. I also go to the gym at least once or twice a week and do a harder workout with weights. But daily walks have been effective for me.” 

Professionally, Mok’s research interests encompass lung cancer, liver cancer, and traditional Chinese medicine. 

Will there ever be a cure for cancer? 

“Cure is not a concept to be indulged when it comes to cancer; curtailed is. Once considered a near death sentence in the ‘70s and ‘80s, we now consider it a chronic disease that with the help of effective treatment the patient can co-exist. In the early days, there was only surgery, radiation and chemotherapy. Now we have molecular-targeted therapy that identifies potentially cancer-causing genes, called oncogenes, and stops them multiplying with very specific and relatively non-toxic medication. 

So how much does smoking, eating red meat, stress levels and other such factors have on cancer? “Well, whether a person is a vegetarian or not, cancer is a unifier; anyone can get it. There are many studies that detail exacerbating factors, but the one I find lofty is ‘stress’. We all have stress to varying degrees. The trick is how to handle it and minimize the adverse effects.” 

Despite the constant warnings, and the plethora of studies directly linking cigarette smoking and cancer, there seems to be no decrease in nicotine consumption in our part of the world. 

“Hong Kong is in relatively good shape. However, the statistics in China show 66 per cent of the urban male population smokes, 356 million are long-term smokers and 15 million are teenagers. Hong Kong is doing rather well when it comes to exercising effective tobacco control. The fact that you can’t smoke in public, in restaurants and bars, and the heavy taxation, is helping decrease the number of smokers. 

In China, the aggressive marketing strategies of tobacco companies are targeting young people and women by making cigarettes more attractively packaged, despite the fact that in 2005 the Chinese Government signed the World Health Organisation’s Framework Convention on Tobacco Control. China pledged 10 million yuan to the project, only a minute fraction of the billions of dollars it receives from tobacco taxation!” 

When asked for health tips, Mok says simply: 

“Be happy! I see cancer patients from all walks of life and the number one question posed is ‘Why did I get it?’ There is no answer to this. Lifestyle contributes but does not eliminate the risk of cancer. So pursue what makes you happy and live life well! That is far more effective for your over-all health than running endlessly on a treadmill.” 

Style 

Words: P. Ramakrishnan 

Photo: K. Y. Cheng. 

Photo: Felix Wong 

Photo: May Tse 

July 6, 2012

Vanity Cases: Interview with actor Carl Ng, Musician Rosey Chan

When it comes to beauty trends knowing what's in, what's out, what works and what doesn't can be hard work. To lend a helping hand are four personalities who provide a broad spectrum of all that is trusted in fashion and beauty. From an elegant concert pianist to a charming leading man, from a dapper bespoke tailor to an international fashion icon, each brings something different to the table, but all are connected through their effortless sense of style.

Carl Ng, Actor

Carl Ng might not be the billboard-friendly pretty boy he once was, the actor settling into roles that play up his rugged looks - but the ageing gracefully embrace wasn't premeditated. It's all a matter of Ng not taking things so seriously.

"It doesn't matter how good or stylish you are if you can't relax and accept a few flaws," says Ng. "Makeup, a stylish wardrobe and skincare products can only take you so far, but yoga is a great way of maintaining the mind and body. Stress will eventually manifest itself physically on your body and face, so fix the inside and you don't need to disguise the outside."

Ng is passionate about yoga and practices it almost obsessively, but that doesn't mean he neglects his looks - especially in a place like Hong Kong. The city's "cauldron of pollution" as he calls it, demands that Ng implements a strong and sturdy grooming regime.

"I don't mind the few wrinkles that have crept up on me, but dried-out skin is never nice to touch," he says. "Clinique products for men are great - it has a good PH neutral facial cleanser and matching toner, followed by a deep surge moisturiser for eyes and face that's a must. And Kiehl's hair products, because they make my hair look natural."

An easy and effortless way of life goes beyond beauty products, trickling down into his choice of style. "I'm not one to put too much thought into my wardrobe or how I look on a particular day - style should be effortless, something that comes without thought," says Ng. "It's a very personal decision; my style is comfortable and classic - simple, clean lines and basic colours, things that can be worn regardless of what year it is and what people are wearing around you. Comfort is important to me; standing out isn't."

In that regard, his key items are traditional but high quality: a lived-in pair of selvage denim jeans, simple shirts with good stitching, fine cotton or handspun cashmere scarves, and lots of bespoke items from smaller brands.

"I'm somewhat jaded by what luxury brands deem as good design," says Ng. "The recent growth of individual boutique fashion is more interesting. People are tired of being corralled into certain looks and are trying to make their own choices against the masses. It brings back individualism and personality."


Rosey Chan, Pianist / Creative Director


Classical musicians don't often venture past their genre's influence, let alone into the worlds of fashion and beauty - but Rosey Chan isn't your average Brahms and Beethoven performer.

As an international pianist and composer, Chan's creative director role at this month's Hong Kong Liberatum Festival will showcase her wide array of musical influences: among the hand-picked participants are Pharrell Williams, Marianne Faithfull and Khalil Fong.

But it's not just music that defines her; Chan is renowned for her fashion sense, listing such timeless celebrities as James Dean, Katherine Hepburn and Jean Seberg as her style icons.

That's more than apparent in her graceful but contemporary on-stage looks. "I try to avoid current fashion, and like to buy fairly timeless clothes that can be combined and re-used forever," she says. "I work very closely with Boudicca; they understand the multi-dimensions of my work. Joseph Li is great for my music and art projects, and I love Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada and Alexander McQueen."

There are also Chan's ever-present Jimmy Choo couture heels, which have become something of a signature look for the performer. "Jimmy Choo has custom designed for me so many times," she says. "He once made me an exquisite pair at the last minute, literally dashing to the workshop as soon I realised I'd packed the wrong shoes for a Kuala Lumpur concert. You could still smell the freshly cut leather as he brought them to the door, just 30 minutes before I went on stage."

Constantly jetting around the world for sold-out performances, the endless climate changes and airplane journeys would normally wreak havoc on one's beauty regime, but Chan has a simple and affordable solution. "Heard this years ago; know this now," she says. "Drink lots of water - it's that simple."

But she does rely on modern methods to treat her flowing tresses. "I never travel without Tara Smith organic hair products. And I love its product motto: 'tested on film stars and not on animals!'"


By P. Ramakrishnan
All Photos by Earl Wan

Pleasure & Pain: Exclusive interview with shoe designer Sam Edelman

Shoe designer Sam Edelman knows what women want, and how much they're willing to suffer for it, writes P.Ramakrishnan.

Sam Edelman wears loafers - a far cry from the forbidding footwear he creates for women. "I personally wear classic shoes from brands like J.M. Weston and a few European designers. They're great, they're comfortable, they're timeless," he says. "But working with, and working for women is much more fun."

The American shoe designer was in Hong Kong recently to launch his Spring-Summer 2012 collection at Lane Crawford, where two exclusive styles - "Lizette" (below) and "Addy" - are about drawing the fine line between fetish and fashion.

"It's always been that way when you look at the history of fashion for women," says Edelman. "From corsets to foot binding, clogs to perilously high heels, women can put up with a lot of pain for the price of beauty. I think that's one of the surprising things I've seen over my 30 years in the business.

"To be beautiful, to have beautiful things, the perception of beauty, there will always be a great demand for it. It's recession proof."

It may be oft said, but the designer has seen for himself the cyclical nature of fashion. In the early '80s the Edelman flat ballet shoe was the iconic must-have, which helped launch the brand by capturing the zeitgeist of the moment. The stilettos, platforms, boots and wedges have come and gone, and the flat, in its latest, gilded avatar (in silver, gold, metallic shades with sparkling embellishments) is back again.

"It may be back, but of course it's different," says Edelman. "You can't pull out the old '70s shoe from the back of your closet and try to work it. Technology and quality has improved by leaps and bounds. Even in a classic shoe, there's innovation there."

As Edelman expands into the Asian market, he says it's clear to him that women, from any part of the globe, want the same things. "Whether it's a lady from New York or New Delhi, China or Chicago, they want to be in trend, they want to be noticed. So even if it's a cowboy-range style - which I think will be in for this coming year - it'll be the same. I don't change my designs or ship out any item to a market based on the people in that market. They're the same," he says. "A fashionable woman in New York to a fashionable woman in Shanghai, they get the same quality product. It goes without saying, but the fashion world's got smaller. Women are educated about what's in, so you can't fool them."

March 2, 2012
Style magazine

Fashionable Lifestyle

P. Ramakrishnan looks at the various and always colourful faces of Versace.

Starting as a boutique in 1978, Versace has grown in strength and stature. The couture house now encompasses lifestyle hotels and interior ranges from Versace Home Collection to Palazzo Versace. Some highlights include:

Palazzo Versace Designed and decorated by Versace, Palazzo Versace in Australia is reminiscent of the glorious days of the late Renaissance. Featuring baroque art and architecture, the 205-room luxury hotel (with 72 villa suites) is unlike any other in the southern hemisphere, its ornate ceilings, decorative walls and luxurious finishing seem to have been plucked from European palaces and transported to the Gold Coast.

Indubitably, the most notable feature is the lush colour and fabric, a lavish indulgence that's authentic to Versace's Italian extravagant lifestyle and spirit. The building is an edification of the Maison's signature design, heritage and furnishing flair, translated through every detail of its product offering, combined with Italian architecture and craftsmanship.

"The hotel and the homeware are really ways of bringing the Versace world to life," says Donatella Versace. "If you visit the home of the House in Via Ges? Milan, you will find that the Versace Palazzo is decorated in a style featuring motifs that recall the Greeks and Romans, combined with baroque-style prints and Renaissance decorative flourishes. These designs appear on furniture, furnishings and crockery, and this opulent look is further mixed with harder, more graphic pieces incorporating ultra-modern materials and slick leatherwork.

"This kind of interior design and these pieces of furniture - and anything else we do in the area of lifestyle, such as mobile phones, fragrances and jewellery, simply express the Versace look in another way; in a way that is different to the fashion collections, but no less Versace."

The Milano Residences Versace's first designer condominium in Southeast Asia opens in the Philippines capital Manila in 2015. Those wanting to immerse themselves in the Versace lifestyle can select from the 340 one- or two-bedroomed units. There are also The Penthouses, The Townhouses, and Italian-inspired units called The Loggias, with breathtaking private plunge pools. The brand's Greek motif will be seen in the grand lobby, hallways, lounge, library, pool, garden and spa.

Home Furnishing Like thrones made for emperors, most furnishing from Versace has a regal, antique air about it that's a hybrid of intelligent modern technique (laser cutting) and traditional print (the omnipresence of the house's Greek logo).

Most prominent in their latest collection is the emergence of metal, a notable link throughout the collection, exemplified in the gilt strip - shiny, satin or chromium plated - which recalls the asymmetric cuts on Versace clothes, resulting in a graphic interpretation of the house's signature logo.

When it comes to fabric, furniture material and cushions, opulence is key; leathers, velvets, satins and silk, shiny laminated textiles, and technical fabrics with lacquer effects. The colour palette goes from vibrant blues to lacquered red, from a golden yellow to an elegant pearl gray.

Table Treasures When it comes to Versace's table manners, it seems apt the range is called The Vanity collection. Heavy on gold colours, the iconic Versace motif is highlighted in the porcelain pieces, patterns that reinforce Versace's Art de la Table. That gilt-edged decoration is unmistakable as are the vibrant colours. The introduction of a traditional Italian "Panettone" (sweet bread loaf originally from Milan) plate and dessert plates were launched for the festive season, with colour motifs in red, gold and white.

Professionally Speaking

A career change might give you the flexibility and drive you've been looking for. But do your homework before entering a new field, writes P. Ramakrishnan. (ramakrishnanp@hotmail.com)

ON PAPER HER CAREER AND lifestyle were sterling. Five years at a top law school with impeccable grades and honours from an Ivy League university led to her being hand-picked by a top firm. As expected, a substantial salary and bonus along with annual holidays to luxurious destinations such as Tuscany followed. The years of experience made her a shoo-in for partnership, but a decade into a profession as a litigation lawyer at a top law firm, she changed career and entered the recruitment industry. While initially settling for less pay, she is happier than ever.

Capricious and whimsical? Hardly. Annie Tang is an example of many women who, after much thought and research, change careers.

"It's common for successful women to shift their career gears even when they are doing well," says Louisa Yeung, a director at Michael Page International. "Women in general will put a higher priority on family. My reason for making a switch from professional to recruitment [Yeung is also a qualified accountant with nine years experience] was mainly because I want to have my own family.

"Professional life is too demanding and pressurised and I wanted to strike a healthy balance between career and family life. So I made the change."

While the money thrown around by rival firms can cause companies to lose their top women, career changes are not always money related. Joanne O'Reilly, an associate director, Banking and Legal department of Michael Page, says: "From a banking perspective, I've seen experienced lawyers/transactions people move to control/risk roles which have less volatile hours. The existing skill set is highly transferable and while the base salary numbers are not widely different, the discretionary bonuses would be quite a bit less. Several of our experienced hires at Michael Page were professional accountants, operations people - for example, settlements, trade support, client services - and lawyers who made the transition to professional recruitment."

In a mercenary society such as Hong Kong, more-work-less-pay might seem a contradiction in terms but O'Reilly says: "Often the driving factors behind these moves relate to consistence in hours, reduced travel, more control over workload, the ability to undertake some work from home/off-site, the ability to balance family commitments, while still retaining a reasonable salary/total compensation in return."

So what are the first steps to take when you want to change? As the adage goes, look before you leap.

Erika Humby, from Talent2 Recruiting firm, lists a 12-step programme but the initial plan of action is simple: "If you've been in the same job for many years and are looking for a career change, the first thing to do is talk to a career counsellor or a good recruiter, research the new area you are looking to move into, make sure you understand all the pros and cons of the new area, position and any companies you are looking to target," Humby says

Being prepared and aware are key, and although your own company need not know that you're looking at the exit sign, some key advisers do, says Humby. "Know what steps you need to take to get where you want to go and talk to people in the new industry to get a good idea about what it's like. Be confident that you can make the change and write a plan of action with what steps you need to take to be successful."

Tang says a professional move is rarely an overnight decision after a bad week at work. "It wasn't on a whim. There are a few people, for personal reasons, who change career course 10 to 15 years into their job, when they achieve a lot and think, 'This isn't what I really want'."

She says this thought is common and does not mean a mid-life or mid-wife crisis. Career goals are often etched out at a young and naive age and once you've attained all you've set out to do, the yearning for more remains. "I was seeking different challenges, I wanted more people interaction. I was that lawyer swamped with paperwork and working long hours - which I didn't mind in the beginning. But the work became quite repetitive and routine. There wasn't much of a challenge. I really wanted a change."

And change she did. She took charge of her life by doing research, making sure she was financially secure, asking and meeting the right people and hitting her target. "Although I'm not a lawyer, I knew a lot of people in the field and know the ins-and-outs of the business. With my list of contacts and industry know-how, and my desire to work with people, the new job as a recruiter for law firms is ideal. It's worked out well for me."

Others choose to take time off and study instead of immediately shifting into a new office. According to Humby, looking at educational programmes that relate to your new career is fine but MBAs are not always necessary. "It depends on where you are looking to go and what you want to do. An MBA is great to have but they're a lot of work and expensive, so make sure you have the basics first."

Anthony Thompson, managing director of Michael Page International (Hong Kong & Southern China), says: "MBAs are not essential but can sometimes be advantageous. While no one needs to start from scratch, they must be realistic in that a career change will often entail a pay reduction - but this is a short-term issue and if they are committed to their new career direction they will be rewarded."

Resigning from your current company isn't inevitable or obligatory. "If you've been working in the same role for 10-15 years, there's a good chance you enjoy working with your employer and have a good relationship. People should investigate options to change their career within that organisation because their employer may facilitate this and assist with supportive training. The other benefit is they will be more likely to maintain their salary level this way as opposed to taking a career change pay cut by going to another employer."

Being practical and realistic is the overwhelming message. "If you're an HR manager and want to be a fighter pilot, then obviously it will be tough because they are very different jobs," says Humby. "Have a clear plan and make sure you write it down. And be positive."

Fresh Start



* Be realistic. Have a clear plan and make sure you write it down.


* Ensure you are qualified or taking steps to show that you are committed to your new area of choice by looking at what relevant qualifications you need.

* Be clear on your new choice and understand what expectations, duties, key competencies and skills are required so you can ensure your CV reflects similar duties, skills and attributes. This allows the hiring manager or recruiter to scan your CV and see that you have the core competencies and relevant skills to do the required job.

* Talk to a career counsellor or good recruiter to get advice on your CV and what you need to do to get where you want to go.

* Get the timing right. If there is a time when there are more roles available then make sure you know when this is. For example, if you want to get into banking when most banks are on a headcount freeze, then obviously it's not a good time to enter this field.

* Develop networks and contacts from the field you are looking to move to.

* Commit to change and make it happen.

Wine Feature: Label of Love

Kavita Devi Faiella followed her passion, and her nose, into the wine industry and she hasn't looked back, writes P.Ramakrishnan.


KAVITA DEVI Faiella weaves her way through a busy Press Room in Quarry Bay, pulling out her favourite vintages and describing them like most people describe their idols.

"Alvaro Palacios is the rock star of Spanish wine. Not only has he made one of Spain's most iconic wines, L'Ermita, but he also makes great value wines from a number of indigenous varieties and regions," she says. "This wine is elegant and refined, and has some of the most powerful yet silky tannins I've tasted."

Faiella is one of the region's most savvy sommeliers. The intimacy with which she describes a bottle, the notes she pulls while describing a region: her passion for the job is obvious. "As a young female, new world sommelier, it's my responsibility to remove the stuffiness of understanding wine," she says of her role as wine director of the Press Room Group.

Having worked with influential chefs such as Steve Manfredi and Neil Perry, been head sommelier of the Hilton property in the Maldives, regional Cellar Master for Aman Resorts working with Miami-based wine consultant Alejandro Ortiz, in the Oenological world, she's a sparkling infusion in the mix of heavy hitters.

Faiella recently passed the theory component of her final Master Sommelier exam in London, and will sit the practical and tasting component at the end of the year, which will make her both Asia and Australia's first female Master Sommelier. "My dad, for the longest time thought I was a professional waitress. I had to explain that there was a lot more to it than serving fine wine by the bottle.

"It's a male-dominated industry and 15 years ago, it was mostly men," she says. "Why, I don't know, it's not like a manually or physically labour intensive. It's understandable that when it comes to wine makers, there's more male than female. But now, even that's changing as there are some female winemakers too."

Where women are leading the pack in wine country however, is at the table. "I've noticed this often in Asian countries that while most men seem to prefer their whiskeys and cognacs, women are a leading demographic when it comes to the selection of wine. You'd be surprised at how important women in Hong Kong in particular are to the wine market." she says. "And oddly, I just read a study that said women will buy a bottle according to the outfit they're wearing. How it's packaged and presented is just as key as the year and region. And I find women who are educated about their wine know what they want when they glance at a menu - maybe they didn't at first, but there are some informed decisions being made."

It's easy to spot the non-wine connoisseurs; they don't buy the cheapest or the most expensive bottle listed. "Yes, so many buy the second or third most expensive wine," Faiella says. "And if there's one thing that I've learned during my stay in Italy, is that if you know what you're doing, you can get an excellent wine that's reasonably priced."

But if reading a wine review has ever boggled your mind with their esoteric references and jargon, then being offered eight pages listing endless bottles from all around the planet can be equally disconcerting.

"When you read a breakfast menu, you know what you want by skimming through it: eggs, toast, croissants - there are no surprises," she says. "Similarly, when you look at a wine menu, with time, you can skim through it and know quickly whether you are up for a light white wine, a musky deep red. You can look at the region and think: yes, it's had a good season and make an informed selection - without being pompous about it. I see my role as a translator of sorts."

Which makes her last two destinations rather odd - now living in Hong Kong (there's no Chateux de Sheung Wan) and having lived in New Delhi for years, both places are not known for their corkage. "Well, I was mostly based in North India, which had a great interest in consuming whiskey more than wine," she says quoting The International Wine and Spirits Record report stating 137.4 million nine-litre cases were sold in India in 2010. "And although countries like China and India are not known for their vintages, it's there, slowly being developed. I hope to find a great Chinese wine during my travels, as it's unexplored territory."

Before we end our conversation, it begs to be asked: as a former medical student turned sommelier, from a professional point of view, what is the best hangover cure? "Lots of water and bitters, it will calm your stomach and flush out the toxins," she says.

A Model Citizen: 90s Pakistani Supermodel Aliya Zaidi, Hong Kong's Glamazon: Style magazine, South China Morning Post

Pakistani model Aliya Zaidi has made huge and stylish strides in her home country, but now calls Hong Kong home. 

Words: P.Ramakrishnan

Photography: Olaf Mueller 

Seated in the front row of fashion week among a sea of glitterati at the Four Seasons grand ballroom in Central, she cuts a striking figure. Tall, slim, with a confident strut, she isn't chased by the tabloid photographers, nor zoomed in on for a close-up by Chinese television. Back home, it's a different story. 

As she walked the ramp for a slew of Pakistani designers this past season, after a long hiatus from modelling, Aliya Zaidi, 37, was featured in every fashion magazine in the region and headlined for designers Nilofar Shahid, Kamiar Rokni, Rehana Saigal and Ammar Belal. 

None too shabby for a mother-of-two who thought her days of pausing and pirouetting at the end of a ramp were long gone. "No, I wasn't nervous," she says tossing back tresses that have been similarly tossed for a Pantene ad. "I've done so many shows, there's excitement and thrill in the air, but that doesn't translate to nervousness or fear. Tripping on the runway is not a concern - walking down the steps on Wellington Street with five-inch heels is far more dangerous - I know, I fell and fractured my tailbone there!" 

Karachi-born Zaidi modelled as a hobby while juggling her MBA program. "I was 18, in college and approached to walk for a fashion show," she recalls. "I worked with the top makeup stylist and after that it was a series of shoots and shows for years. It was tough to manage working towards my MBA and modelling at the same time, but fashion became my passion and I always found time to fit it in." 

With full support from her conservative, yet progressive parents there was no hysterical reaction at home. "My parents were proud of my success," she says. It paid off as accolades followed. 

"I was named the Number One Supermodel in the country [in the late '90s] after an industry survey and my parents loved to tell their friends in delight. Even now, not a day goes by when I don't miss them." What she doesn't miss is the politics and hours standing around. "I started at 18 but by 25, I wasn't so enamoured by the whole scene. I moved to New York and started focusing on my corporate career in technology. Working long hours at the office and rushing home to start dinner left no time for pursuing my previous career. Perhaps I had also burnt out with the crazy hours - it was less stressful to focus on my 9-7 job at the time." 

While she currently lives in Hong Kong, she sees progress being made in her home country. "Pakistan is extremely modern - you would be surprised what the well-heeled wear at soirees in Karachi and Lahore, no different from other fashion centers in the world," says Zaidi, who even did an occasional stint on the catwalks of Mumbai (aka Bollywood). 

"It is very common to spot women in Cavalli or Chanel. Even though the majority don the traditional three-piece outfit, many have incorporated western wear in their closets." 

Pakistan's third fashion week was held earlier this year. 

See earlier post: The Making of... Aliya with a Z. 

Pic 1 Image Credits: Black evening dress ($16,995) by Roberto Cavalli, from The Swank, shoes ($13,740) by Giuseppe Zanotti Design from Lane Crawford, ring (*) and necklace (*) from Cartier. 

Pic 2 Navy gown ($22,090) by Roland Mouret, shoes ($13,740) by Giuseppe Zanotti Design from Lane Crawford, all from Lane Crawford. Earring (*) Van Clef & Arpel, necklace (*) from Cartier.

* Price upon request. 

Great Escapes: Travel like a movie star to these resorts, private islands and luxury vacation hot spots

Cast yourself in a role of the lifestyles of the rich and famous courtesy of these holidays from heaven, writes P.Ramakrishnan. 

When Tom Cruise landed in Hong Kong for the premier of Mission: Impossible II he arrived on a private jet that he piloted. From the airport, he was whisked by chopper to the rooftop of The Peninsula where a private elevator delivered him down to a press conference. Sound tempting? 

If you want a movie star experience then drop a line to Alan Rogers, of Red Carpet Enterprises (redcarpet.co.uk). The company specialises in holiday experiences that rival Hollywood jaunts. There is in fact a "Tom Cruise" package where you can fly to Cape Town, take private flight training lessons, choose a route before getting fitted for your own signature flight suit. With a pass to a military airspace in a Hawker Hunter fighter jet to thrust yourself skyward at speeds of 960km/h just 20m above the ground, you can grab the controls and try out all sorts of stomach-churning stunts. A weekend's high flying costs about HK$160,000. But that's the tip of the ice-berg. 

"A 10th birthday celebration saw us hiring a battleship where the inside was themed like a football pitch," says Rogers. "An ex-England footballer played five-a-side with the boys' friends, who then finally presented him with a signed shirt and ball from his favourite team. We choose very carefully the appropriate venues and hotels for each occasion. Our travels find us in some of the best villas, venues and hotels in the world, sometimes rubbing shoulders with the rich and famous." 

For a more children-centric experience, Red Carpet can provide a trip to Lapland. A visit to a reindeer farm, sled rides, races with huskies, snowmobile rides across frozen lakes and a stay in a private lodge. Let's call this the Marlon Brando experience. 

For the last quarter of his life, the actor lived on a private island and rarely appeared beyond the confines of his tropical paradise. Before the terms "organic", and "going green" entered the vernacular, Brando was doing it all. For a private island fantasy, head to Ratua in Vanuatu (you can rent the island), a self-sufficient retreat with postcard views and luxurious villas. Dotted with a dozen Indonesian-style villas, made with 200-year-old teakwood, the private houses are furnished with natural material - the island has a no plastic policy. 

The former coconut plantation gets all its consumables purchased in Indonesia and then shipped to Ratua. Most of the food is produced on the island or purchased locally, the goal of this resort is to leave a minimum carbon footprint. Spend afternoons horseback riding or canoeing, or snorkeling in the azure blue waters. 

Having eaten, prayed and loved on screen for more than two decades, Julia Roberts has had many reasons to grin through an admirable career with hefty paycheques. She traipsed through Italy, India and Bali for her last film but it's hard to imagine Pretty Woman slumming it in Calcutta. Despite Roberts' legendary down-to-earth vibe, it seems impossible to envision that she stayed in a hut with nominal access to tap water. 

Sher Bagh in India would be the sort of earth-friendly, animal-reserve-meets-glamorous-getaway that would suit the highest-paid actress in the world - and for those of her ilk. It's got all the ingredients the film had, but in a capsule of bug-free comfort. Tented camps at Sher Bagh are as legendary as some of its VIP guests. Impeccable service, incredible food, a communal feel and one-ness with nature loom large. The tents are fitted with air-conditioning, a 24/7 butler service (fancy a gin-and-tonic at 4am?) and the sort of plush surroundings that reek of Passage to India cinematic charms and regalia. Early morning scheduled safari rides to see the magnificent creatures that roam about - there are indeed tigers lurking in the distance, as the name suggests ("tiger garden" is the literal translation to Sher Bagh). As the tiger population decreases with each passing year, this reserve is the last of its kind in Asia. Conspicuous consumption meets conservation, the moment your Canon catches a yawning tiger at sunset, it'll be the experience you'll bore proceeding generations with. Cantor and jeep rides that ferry guests to and from the resort run like clockwork. The running joke of 'IST' (Indian standard time, where things happen at their own pace) doesn't fit the whopping bill (this isn't a location for backpackers), as everything runs to precision. A cocoon of extreme comfort and luxury awaits upon your return from the safari rides in the otherwise sweltering heat of Rajasthan. 

Campfire meals and drinks, tales and folklore of prince and princes, epic love stories between Mughal Kings and a Rajput princess, it's live theatre with a Bollywood twist. Sunrise and sunsets in nearby parks (in particular the expansive Ranthambhore), it's all a bucolic and beautiful adventure. There are few people Oprah Winfrey would envy. With more than a billion dollars to spare, what could she possibly covet? 

Gwyneth Paltrow's holiday, apparently. When the Oscar winner last appeared on Oprah, she relayed her trip across Spain with celebrity chef Mario Batali as she ate her way through the country. "I would love to do that," said the talk-show host. And here's how you can. Foodies looking for an experience in Spain should head to La Maroma. Set on a private hilltop in Andalucia, La Maroma (akvillas.com) enjoys grand views over almond and olive groves and the estate's private vineyard. 

Expectedly, fresh olives, nuts and wine from the panoramic views that you see from your own rooms are brought in. The cortijo (a Spanish farmstead) has fused the rustic-chic style to provide modern luxuries (wi-fi, broadband, sub-terrain heating and air-conditioning) and comfort, but still maintains the traditional Andalusian architecture of its heritage (Spanish antiques and locally made hand-crafted furnishings litter the grounds). Hand-stitched Suzani tapestries above the beds, private indoor and outdoor lounges, terraces and pool that face different vistas that encircle the villa, it's the sort of place a star would seek respite from the paparazzi. But it's not just the scenic location that makes La Maroma stand out in a city teaming with grandiose holiday possibilities. It's the food. As you watch Batali and Paltrow go through an ever-changing and colourful menu, you can taste the sumptuous food shown on screen - but instead of schlepping from one location to another in the fetid heat, you can have it delivered to your table. 

Guests staying at La Maroma can enjoy the "Instant Unwind" package, which includes organic produce, including an immense fruit and vegetable box delivered to your doorstep, shopping service for any additional provisions, fresh flower arrangements and wine tasting and tapas on arrival. Private four-course gourmet dinners, by villa chef David Palacios, alongside welcome hampers with local Spanish delicacies and basic provisions, are included. 

The markets of Andalucia - Marbella, Fuengirola, Coin - are all nearby, as is the village of El Rampido where the protected reserve called the Paraje Natural Marismas del Rio Piedras y Flecha del Rompido lies. With the onsite wine bodega stocked with local wines, it's a festival of fresh food and drink. As Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt and her brood found solace in Africa to escape far from the madding crowd, they hit various parts of the continent, before culminating in Namibia where Jolie gave birth to their child. For some bush luxury, head to Camp Jabulani (akvillas.com). As a matter of extreme privacy, it has only six suites and its own herd of elephants. 

Accredited by the Relais & Chateaux, Camp Jabulani is a family-owned and managed private luxury safari lodge within the Kapama Game Reserve in Hoedspruit, South Africa (in close proximity to the Kruger National Park, and scenic Mpumalanga region). The best part is a herd of trained elephants rescued by the local endangered species centre that roam the camp. Watching the animals in their natural, protected habitat as they swim and play is the National Geographic moment aspiring photographers dream of. And to further lift your spirits, there are hot-air balloon excursions. 

With never more than a dozen guests at any given time, the exclusive Zindoga Villa is suited for the family traveller. Daily elephant safaris, safari drives in the Big Five private Kapama Reserve, indulgent treatments in the outdoor Therapy Lapa, culinary delights at the hands of the masterful chefs, with all the accoutrements of a luxury holiday with an elephant stamp of approval, this one's not to be missed.

Published in Style magazine, May 6, 2011 

My Kind of Town: Eurasian supermodel Jocelyn Luko's love for hometown Hawaii

Some of the world's mot in-demand models name their favourite hot spots.

HAWAII

Hong Kong based Jocelyn Luko, 25, is one of Asia's Top Models and has graced many a magazine cover and beauty campaign.

First thing I do in Hawaii is ... eat a huge breakfast with my family. Most of the flights from Asia land early morning, so everyone comes to pick my husband Anthony [boyfriend] and I up, and we head to our favourite restaurant Anna Millers. Eggs benedict, fresh fruit juice, Hawaiian/Portuguese sausage, the works.

You will find me on... the beach. It's all beautiful, postcard beaches. There's a beach for surfing, another for body boarding, another for kayaking. I've been lucky to never meet any sharks, and I've been fortunate to swim with sea turtles and see dolphins.

Best beach? Sunset Beach on the North Shore. That's where I got married!

Best for drinks? Mai Tai. It's got great live music. The other place is Duke's bar on the beach. You can see the most glorious sunset, with a drink in your hand.

Best for dinner? Orchids at Halekulani hotel. It's right on the water, it's where I took my parents for their anniversary.

Best market? Watanabe florist - it's famous. It has the most exotic flowers.

In Hawaii I usually wear... flip-flops, shorts, sunglasses, T-shirt; very casual and comfortable. Even sneakers feel weird. It's warm in Hawaii but not humid.

Fragrance that most reminds me of Hawaii is... plumeria flowers (also called Frangipani).

If you want to feel like a real Hawaiian... have a barbecue on the beach. Roasting marshmallows on the beach and eating Smores (roasted marshmallow with chocolate between crackers) is a must.

Best for gifts? Any souvenirs, like flowers, chocolate-covered macadamia nuts, and Kona coffee.

In Hawaii I always stock up on... Hawaiian salt. It's a sweet-salty thing - I've never tasted anything similar to it anywhere else.

This Time with Zing: Interview with Hong Kong's Makeup Artist to the Stars: 2011

Celebrity make-up artist Zing works on canvases that double as the most beautiful faces in Asia, writes P.Ramakrishnan.

If Zing hasn't created a signature look when it comes to fashion, perhaps he does adhere to one: tall, slim, his ears studded with mini-marble size diamonds, large-framed glasses and a Chanel jacket. "I love to wear Chanel," he says. His private studio is littered with Chanel bags choking with other designer embroidered jackets. "They fit my frame. I don't wear make-up ever, I really don't care for it on my skin, but I do love Chanel."

His make-up school is in the heart of Central, long corridors festooned with frames of the famed and the fortuned, coated with distinctive make-up styles that vary from the exotic to the quixotic - yet each unmistakably gorgeous. Zing, 41, the one-named man and brand has been touching-up the faces of Asia's most beautiful women - and men - for the past two decades, their visages providing a remarkable canvas for his creative bent.

"Like all faces, the beautiful ones I can enhance, the plain ones provide a blank canvas," he says. "I have no preference between a celebrity or a model. With models, I choose the subject as they have faces of a certain proportion, symmetrical faces I can work with to create whatever's on my mind. When it comes to singers or actresses, they choose me; they ring me to do their make-up and I get to work with them to enhance their looks. Working with singers is interesting as you have to enhance the persona, keeping in mind their image."

When he started in the 1980s, Zing was not following in the footsteps of any particular role model. "I had no idea why I wanted to get into make-up. I knew nothing about it," he says. "I just knew I had to do it. I learnt through trial and error. There was no one to train me, no school to educate me."

Zing says he would go to discos and clubs and ask models and other beautiful girls if he could do their make-up. "They all said yes; there were no divas back then," he says. "We'd do test shoots, and the models would introduce me to photographers. One thing led to another and I'd keep on working."

Although Zing came to Hong Kong from Singapore in 1989, there was another connection with the island that elevated him from the flock, a project he distinctly remembers. "There was a quarterly, high-end magazine in Singapore that every model wanted to be in, every photographer wanted to shoot for," he recollects. "They flew in the gorgeous Janet Ma from Hong Kong. She was the `it' girl on the scene. That shoot got me noticed.

"In Hong Kong, people do the work for the money. In Singapore, the pay wasn't great, but the credit was. Your name in print meant something - like it does in Paris or London. I always tell aspiring make-up artists to do their job, put blinders on and focus purely on the work; the money and fame would follow."

Zing refuses pinpoint a favourite face from his vast list of high-profile artists he's worked with, such as Carina Lau, Faye Wong, Kelly Chen, Sammi Cheng, Shu Qi and Zhang Ziyi (not to forget French actress Sophie Marceau, business tycoon Pansy Ho or Hong Kong socialite Claudia Shaw). "I've enjoyed working with every one. The only time I've thrown down my brushes and walked away is when someone won't sit still, is busy talking on the phone, or chatting with others around, when I'm trying to do the work. But with age I've mellowed; I used to be much more prima donna," he confesses with a toothy grin.

And, of course, there are the men he's worked with. He mentions that there are actors and male singers who feel that they can get anyone to do their stage make-up and don't want to pay extra for a good make-up artist. "They always looked caked-up and over-powdered. You can see that their cheeks are one colour, neck a different colour and hands a different colour! They don't understand the value of a good make-up artist who can make them look like they have no make-up on. `Nude' make-up is an art."

Like seasons of fashion, there are trends in make-up that come and go. "I foresee a lot of metallic this year," says Zing. "Bronze, gold, silver or gun-metal shades. In the '70s and '80s, the times influenced make-up and psychedelic colours were all the rage. When the health and gym rage started, people wanted to look in the pink of health, so the make-up was more natural and nude."

Zing says that everything can influence the look he creates for a person, whether it's the outfit they're wearing, their hairstyle, the season, or the event they're going to. "Everything informs the work I do."

A comprehensive collection of the looks Zing has created can be seen in the book that was released last November, The Most Beautiful Women in Hong Kong Wear Zing, in which a bevy of Asian beauties made their presence felt. "The main reason I came to Hong Kong - and didn't go to Paris or Japan - was that I wanted to engender a culture of recognising Asian beauty. I wanted to work here with Asian faces. I'm not overawed by Western celebrities and their Hollywood glamour," he says. "When people say, `I want an Audrey Hepburn look' or a `Marilyn Monroe look', you understand that vocabulary and immediately have a reference point. Similarly, when I say, a `Sammy Cheng look' or a `Faye Wong look', I want people to get it instantly."



An adage says one learns more from one's mistakes than one's successes. Zing nods emphatically. "I made a mistake. I learnt from it. I used to do faces with what I considered a lip or an eye should look like. Finally, I learnt to step back, look at each individual and recognise what works and doesn't work for that face. Sometimes a disproportioned lip works - they shouldn't all be perfect `M' shapes. Perhaps the eye should look a little less dramatic, because it suits their personality. There is no one mould of what beauty is," he says.

"I can see people are being creative for the sake of being creative and really, making the person look bizarre. The essence of make-up to me is to make someone look beautiful with touches of creativity. Return to beauty."


Apr 01, 2011
STYLE
South China Morning Post

Shape Shifters: Hong Kong's hottest bodies strip down for Style's sexiest shoot: With tips on health and fitness

Text: P.Ramakrishnan
All photographs by Olaf Mueller
Assistant: Moses
Art Direction: Rama


Hong Kong's fittest and healthiest bodies reveal how they get in swimsuit-ready shape after a calorific winter. From kick-boxing to dance, professional sports to the yogis, these fine forms prove that in pursuit of the flattest abdominals, you can't do nominal work.

Jonny Rees

The name-card reads, Senior Sales Executive, Advertising & Marketing Industry, but the body says… machine! Jonny Rees, professional rugby player, hides an eight-pack under his ties and fitted suits as he heads to work in Central every weekday. The weekend is dedicated to his hardcore sport.

“I play rugby for Kowloon RFC as a wing or full-back. We train as a team twice a week on Tuesdays and Thursdays and play our games on Saturday afternoons. We are based down at King's Park (Kowloon),” he says. “In terms of personal training, I try to hit the gym at least three mornings a week, and if possible squeeze in one or two runs after work or at the weekends. Further exercise, swimming, spinning, circuits, are all dependant on work and social commitments. I'm also a big fan of trekking in the New Territories and the Sai Kung area.”

To top it all, Rees is a fan of food, not just the healthy kind, more of the pizza and pies variety. “When exercising once or twice a day, you could imagine one’s eating habits go through the roof. I am also lucky to have a ridiculously fast metabolism; if I had to calculate it, I'd guess my average daily calorie count would be between five and eight thousand - I'm always eating!” he says, despite showing no evidence of a lardy diet.

Surely there are times when he watches his intake of junk and fast food?

“I'm not going to lie, when it comes to what I eat - if I like what I see, I'll buy it. In the past I've spent a bit of time here and there comparing similar products for GI index's, fats and so on,” he says. “Although I still try to avoid visibly 'unhealthy' foods, I am a lot more relaxed about what I end up going for these days - I tend to pick something that looks slightly healthier and then consume in bulk. Because I eat so much I tend not to follow nutrition plans, but if I did, I'd definitely take advice from rugby player/nutritionist Joe Shaw (check out his website www.salveolifestyle.com).

Given the option, Rees likes food he gets back home in the UK, “I would have to say my choice of food would still be something English like a roast or bangers and mash - maybe it's because living a million miles away from my mum means these are such rarities,” he says. “I'm also a big fan of enchiladas and seafood-dishes.”



Guilty pleasures? “If choosing a slightly unhealthier option, I would definitely go for bruschetta with every topping under the sun and a large greasy pizza, followed by some form of apple/blackberry pie and lots of ice cream - especially on Saturdays after a game!”

Obviously joining a professional rugby team isn’t a feasible notion for most people, but Rees says, “Whether it be a team sport like rugby or hockey, morning training classes or individual sports - there is something for everyone. I personally am a massive fan of team sports; joining Kowloon RFC was a great way of meeting new friends in Hong Kong. It also opened up huge work and social circles that have got me to where I am today.”


Image Caption: Rugby shorts, model’s own. Boxer-briefs by Calvin Klein underwear.

Icy Lee



For Icy Lee, having one of the hottest bodies in Hong Kong may seem easy but as the studio director of Yogasala, she dedicates herself to the practice, six days a week. It’s a regiment she’s followed for years. “I workout at home, and at the studio,” she says between shots as she contorts her limber body into pretzel positions. “I also love to hike in the countryside.”

Proving you are what you eat, Lee’s yogic temple of a body intakes, “Sprout almond, sprout mug beans, raw quinoa, greens veggies, soup buckwheat noodle, soaked Chia (ancient seed with high content of omega 3) in orange juice,” she says. “Homemade ginger with honey and lime tea would be my drink of choice.”

Thankfully, she isn’t holier than thou as when it comes to indulgences, she won’t say no to, “Almond Chocolate,” she says with an easy smile. “But the general rule is to eat simple. I try not to eat too many different kinds food in one meal as it'll spoil the digestive fire.”

Other tips include sleeping before the clock strikes midnight, “Because only when our body clock goes with the universal one, there is harmony in our system.”

Icy joins this list as her reputation for being devoted to the fine art of yoga precedes her, her dedication matched by other enthusiasts who’ve found this more palatable to the system than other forms of exercise.

“High intensity cardio exercise is not for me, as it wears out the joints more easily because of the repetition of similar movement,” she says. “Practicing Iyengar Yoga with combination of Yoga posture (Asana) and breath control (Pranayama) with consciousness with particular sequences everyday works best to both my physical and mental body.”


Despite her job nature and daily dedication to her sport of choice, Lee’s not fanatical about just doing yoga and nothing else, “Because of my job and my daily practice, over the weekend, I like to stay at home and have quality time with my partner,” she says. “Shopping in the local market for seasonal ingredients and cooking together are always the top of our to-do list.”

And, in an unrelated form of exercise, she would recommend, “Hiking,” she says. “I would recommend a hiking group in Hong Kong, so the group will hold hiking trips regularly that keeps your momentum of hiking going when you’re feeling lazy on a Sunday.”

Muk Venkataraman

If its any consolation, Muk Venkatraman wasn’t always this fit. “I was fat,” he says with his toothy grin. “Fat, fat.” But with a sojourn in the US and a calling to the health and fitness industry, the former graphic designer and artist has chucked the dull desk-job and now is a personal trainer and director from Elite Fitness and Conditioning LTD. His weapon of choice in the battle of the bulge; a kettle-bell.

“I think everyone can learn Kettlebell Sport,” he says with noticeable passion for the sport. “The sport of kettlebells is different from just the Kettlebell workout you see around in fitness magazines. True Kettlebell athletes can use their bodies to work with a selected weight for an infinite amount of time. That's the idea with our sport. We don't do sets of 10 reps and then rest. We do sets of 10 minutes and rest, while we are still working.”

The goal of the sport is to not put the kettlebells down for the allocated amount of time. “If you can jerk or snatch a Kettlebell for 10-mins without putting it down, you would have achieved a very high level of fitness. You need strength, flexibility, speed and cardio to play my sport,” he says. “If you are missing one, then it'll be a long day for you. This is why I love the sport of kettle-bells. It's the biggest bang for your buck.”

Apart from the hours spent at the gym, he recommends doing little things every day that can make a big impact in the long run, “Don't take taxis. Walk, MTR and Bus. Taxis are for lazy people in my opinion. I move as much as I possibly can. I get to the gym everyday,” he says.

Everyday. “Yes, everyday. If you believe that working out twice a week will keep you in shape but you catch a taxi to and from the gym and then you sit down all day at a desk or your couch, you're seriously deluded.”

Though of Hindu origin, this personal trainer doesn’t espouse his beliefs or subject them to others, but looks at vegetarian eating in a practical manner, “Eat only what comes from the earth. If it does not grow on a tree, plant or in the ground, don't eat it,” he says. “I avoid high acidic meats such as beef because it takes way too long for the body to break it down. I try to eat foods that are not cooked as well. The heat from cooking can take away the nutrients from your food. Eat high nutrient foods and not high calorie foods. There is a difference between calories and nutrition.”

Though a high fruit and vegetable diet informs his body, there are days off the routine, “A large pizza,” he says would be his guilty pleasure. “Top that off with an afogato (espresso and ice cream).”

Weekends are days off from the strict regiment as well. “I either do bodyweight exercise or lift the kettlebells all week. I try to eat as clean as possible everyday but hey, I'm only human right? So on Sundays I let it go a little and have some cheat food.”

Recently, Venkatraman’s seen a surprising result while changing his food habits, “I've been experimenting with a plant based diet for about a week now and the results are truly incredible,” he says. “My mental clarity is at an all time high. My energy levels are higher than in my 20s and I'm stronger than ever before. It's only been a week but I must say, this is the only way to go from now on. I've avoided all animal products except for fish once a day if that and I will continue on this until I return from Russia in May.


Indeed Venkatraman heads to the land of oligarchs for a kettlebatll championship as he represents Hong Kong. “Well, I represent myself,” he says as he ups his training to compete with the best in the league. Those large, Russian giants with their Olympian-winning ways don’t bother him.

“Everyone’s body is different," he says. "So don't try to do what someone else is doing. Do what you know. If you don't know what your doing, get a good trainer to teach you.”

Watch by Calvin Klein, boxer-briefs by Calvin Klein underwear.



Francesca von Etzdorf

For those who spend an alarming amount of time watching the idiot-box, the lovely Francesca von Etzdorf would be a familiar face, as the first runner up to the Amazing Race Asia contest. Tall, slim and striking, the former model (“it was many, many… many years ago”!) has maintained her figure by working out and practicing netball in Hong Kong.

“There is a netball season/tournament every year beginning in October and running through to April,” she says. “Matches are every Monday night and can be anywhere from the Football Club to Western Park Sports Centre or Aberdeen Outdoor Courts. It depends which team you are playing that week. Our trainings are on Wednesdays at Hong Kong Park Sports Centre.”

Though her current job s of Media Manager at the paradisiacal Aman resorts, counterbalancing her desk job means that she makes up for it by doing, “A lot of walking,” she says. “I can’t really find the motivation to get to the gym after work so if I want to do a little more exercise, other than netball, I will sometimes wake up early and go for a run along Bowen Road.”

When asked about little secrets to stay healthy, she laughs. “I’m afraid I don’t have any that’s not beyond the realm of being sensible. Little things like walking up escalators instead of standing on them. I live in the Mid-levels so that a lot of walking up escalators every day. Team sports are great as it’s a fun way to exercise without really realising how much you’re doing.”

Though she has a self-professed love for salads, Thai salads in particular, sushi and most seafood, von Etzdorf says, “I have a very strange obsession with the Snyder’s of Hanover Cheddar Cheese pretzels. There’s pretty much always a big packet of them, and a packet of Hobnob biscuits in our house at all times J Dipping biscuits in tea is one of the best things in the world.”

In her early 30s and having been in the industry that pays obeisance to the reed thin, von Etzdorf does not care for the unhealthy size-zero trend or maniacal gyming.

“My biggest find with exercise, oddly enough, is not to be too obsessed or focused on the results," she says. "When I gave up smoking a few years ago, I gained 12kgs in six months."

As the eyebrows hit the roof in suspicion, she swears, “It’s the God’s honest truth. Let’s just say that mars bars and ice cream suddenly looked really friendly! I was at the gym everyday (sometimes twice) trying to get back to my normal size and really working hard. I was doing an amazing amount of crunches, spin, pump and combat classes regularly, running for at least two episodes of Desperate Housewives on the treadmill. And constantly fixated on seeing the results. Nothing seemed to be happening. I didn’t understand it because I had never done so much exercise in my life and when I do work out I usually see effects fairly quickly.”

“One day I just told myself to let it go and stop stressing about it. If this was the way of things now, I was just going to have to accept it. After that the weight literally just seemed to fall off,” she says.

Health is wealth is the adage and if she’s dedicated weekends to the trivial pursuit of cardio currency, well, it hasn’t quiet paid off. “Um… sometimes on the weekends I contemplate thinking about going for a hike?” she says with an sly grin.

“I’m not going to lie, it doesn’t often materialize into anything beyond that. I did buy a HK hiking guide book recently though and have ventured out a couple of times and had a great time. It. Will. Happen.”

Amen.

Nicolas Pollet


As a director of a furniture design firm, Nicolas Pollet is the model of outdoor sportsman as he partakes in; “Swimming, yoga, kite surfing, kayaking and trekking”. Never a gym bunny, you’ll find him often at, “The beach!” he says. “But when in the city, I’m at Yoga Central where I practice Anahata Yoga.”

Another yogi! “But I am not fanatic about it. I like outdoor sports,” he says. Like others, he also sees the benefits of doing little things like walking short distances, taking the stairs and staying away from fast food. “But I do have my share of Nutellla, Chocolate bars, weekly BBQs. I spend time with friends, play on the beach when the weather is good, practice outdoor sports.”




More of a lifestyle than a gym-crunched retinue, Pollet will have his soup noodles cook big breakfast (“With everything, toast, Nutella, eggs, cheese, fruits, juices”) and still manage to look like a model out of the pages of GQ. “I love good food and deprive myself of nothing but, I don’t over=indulge.”

His simplest advice is, “Stay outside as much as possible,” he says. “I’d recommend that everyone try kite surfing, it is fun, challenging, friendly, technical, and you exercise without realizing it (at least for a beginner like me). And trekking. Hong Kong is heaven for medium length treks, hunt the waterfalls,” he says as he forsakes the urban jungle for, the real jungle. “Hong Kong has a very green side, find it.”

White pants, model’s own, briefs by Calvin Klein underwear.

Kate Bryan

A seemingly sedentary life, as Kate Bryan, Gallery Director at The Cat Street Gallery, mulls over copious tomes of art history, biographies of leading contemporary artists, most purveyors of the art scene in Hong Kong must have noticed how alarmingly fit this, often seated by her laptop, girl is.

“I don't play a sport per se, but I really love hiking. My husband and I love to do the whole Hong Kong trail in a day, 50K,” she says. “At the end, I would happily turn around and start again. It is such a beautiful walk and a great sense of accomplishment at the end when you hit Big Wave Bay. More than anything it is great therapy, hours of fresh air, thinking and talking. I would do it every weekend if I could.”

The rigmarole of all that entails a gym membership card was left a long time ago. “For a long time I was a gym bunny but started to find it hard to fit into my schedule and kept getting gym guilt when I didn't make it and complete boredom when I did,” she says. “So about two years ago I switched to working out at home which fit my schedule so much better and made me far more focused for some reason. On a bad day if you can just get your shorts on you know that means you are going to do it. No worry about going anywhere or packing all your stuff for the showers.”

Weights, a bench, medicine ball, stability ball and exercise DVDs of high intensity circuits, mixing cardio and strength training at her Happy Valley living room or rooftop ensure that her body is a work of art.

“I also really like the lunchtime classes at JAB, but am sad to say I just can't get there anymore due to work commitments,” she confesses. “When it is a gorgeous day I run, either around the track doing sprints or up Bowen Road for something more scenic. “

Like others, she understands the pressures of the city. “It's not always easy as there are a plethora of things conspiring to make you unfit - the weather, eating out, boozy lunches at work, hectic social life and long hours,” she says. “An average day for me at the moment is pretty good, I work out for about 30-minutes before breakfast and then walk to work which takes about 45 minutes. I am crazy healthy and have a dedicated Monday - Thursday routine. I relax a little over the weekend.”

When it comes to diet, Bryan says, “Low fat cottage cheese is magic. I have a half a tub with fruit and just a couple spoons of granola each morning and it is so filling. Also lovely snack with grapes and almonds. I also carry raw almonds with me when traveling or know I have a busy day to stop me making bad food choices.”

Not eating late at night, avoiding all processed foods, refined sugars are a given. “I genuinely think I prefer healthy food, it's just not always easy to order healthy when eating out. I would never cook anything which wasn't healthy at home. It just doesn't appeal. My go-to healthy meal is probably a massive mixed salad, which I have most days for lunch and occasionally in the evening.”

From her own cookbook, she claims, “My favourite at the moment is spinach, tuna, fresh orange segments, avocado, green beans, kidney beans and an Asian dressing made of ginger, soy sauce, lemon and chilli. I probably eat enough for a few people but I figure the nutrients are good for my hair!”

If the halo above her sun-kissed hair seems alarmingly unattainable, Bryan is quick to confess, “Prosecco and calimari are my idea of heaven and I have whenever I see them on a menu. But the ultimate has to be cheesecake, I even had a cheesecake wedding cake, three tiered with white chocolate cigarellos and fresh cascading raspberries. I only eat it once a year - on my birthday - if I wasn't so restrictive I would be the size of a house as I can eat a whole one. It's a gift and a curse.”

“I am a curvy girl and want to stay that way. For me the objective is feeling great, being super fit and not obsessing,” she concludes.

Melissa Thornton

As a dance teacher and creative director at Island Dance, but of course Melissa Thornton is in the shape of a professional athlete. This choreographer loves to move, “All styles - disco freestyle, jazz, modern and ballet. I have been fortunate enough to have the wonderful privilege to teach dance throughout Hong Kong for both professional dancers and dance students aged 3-18 yrs," she says. "I also have choreographed and staged dances for the Hong Kong Tourism Board’s Chinese New Year Parade, the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens and other events around Hong Kong.”

For those in the arteries of Central finding excuses more often than cabs for their arrested physical development, Thornton says, “Hong Kong is a beautiful cosmopolitan city with endless places to work out. As dancing is my profession I stay fit naturally. Also in Discovery Bay, where I live, there are so many scenic hiking spots. Something like dance (all types of dance) you can do anywhere, anytime – so hake it up!”

Her little secrets to stay healthy are easy as pie, “First and foremost, I believe that it is important to stay passionate about what you do,” she says enthusiastically. “Change it up, diversify, keep it fresh and don’t get stagnant in whatever you do.”

Fresh fruits and vegetables seem to be a common link among all our subjects and Thornton chimes in, “I recommend balancing by eating from the five food groups for people who have no food allergies. All kinds of cheeses and pate (I am a savoury girl) are my non-guilty pleasures. Because I like to cook, my comfort foods are the rich foods my mother cooked when I was growing up – roasts and casseroles.”

“I never diet and I don’t believe in dieting because when I deny myself something I find myself thinking about food more often,” she says. “Food should be consumed according to your lifestyle. Eat what you like - find a harmonious equilibrium between food and exercise.”

The same mantra follows her workout practice too. “Being a professional dancer, I could be prone to injuries. Warm ups are the key to safety is exercising. Stay consistent, don’t get lackadaisical and if you have an injury use the old RICE theory - Rest, Ice, Compress and Elevate.”



Douglas Pieterse


It’s a vicious sport. Looks alarming similar to two men trying to choke each other to death but Douglas Pieterse, the personal trainer (and photographer) has been practicing the art of Brazilian Jui-Jitsu for years. At Grips Gym in Central, you’ll find him training every day. “Using a combination of conditioning training coupled with Brazilian Jui-jitsu I manage to keep my self in a somewhat respectable shape,” says the new father, who’s married to Joey Lee, Hong Kong’s former kick-boxing champion.

If ever there was a power couple, it would be Pieterse and his wife, but as Lee’s given birth five months ago, she’s born witness to her husband’s addiction to fast food. “He used to eat nothing but crap,” she laughs. “Junk food from… well, name every single fast-food joint and he’s been there. I’ve tried to change his diet and we saw results within weeks.”

“Chicken breast, broccoli and salads,” are Pieterse’s go-to healthy foods but confesses to falling off the wagon when it comes to getting fast food between his training sessions. Mercifully, he does say, “Balance is key. Don’t try to be too strict on yourself and short term as well as long term goals. Nothing worse than endlessly working towards something with no short term satisfaction to keep you a little motivated. Basically, what I like about my sport, which I’d recommend to anyone is that it gets you fit and strong while challenging you with the technical side of the sport.”


He’s seen the slew of new-year’s resolutionists come barging in… and within weeks, falling off the program. “Train hard enough that your body feels the need to adapt, always give yourself a workout that challenges the body,” he says. “Don’t start your program with such enthusiasm that you end up over-training…. and fizzle out before you really get anywhere.”

Even on weekends, Pieterse can be found practicing slow paced Jui-jitsu, but “Weather permitting, hiking around Hong Kong to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. On the weekend, I also follow the 80/20 rule. Eat well 80% of the time and treat yourself 20%... but try not to binge!”

Pants model’s own, briefs by Calvin Klein underwear

UPDATE: Douglas now at http://www.r3personaltraining.com/



Also see earlier post: The making of....