Alessandro Sartori has made a mark under the Zegna label with incredible alacrity and proficiency. In less than a decade of joining the company, he has been planted as the creative head of the Z Zegna line. For P.Ramakrishnan, he lists the do’s and don’ts for the man who wants to be in GQ. Why not take note from someone who’s been there, done that?!
As members of the press and photographers teem at the Conrad, awaiting the man of the moment, Alessandro Sartori, subject of much interest as Zegna presents its latest line in Hong Kong, few note the large sign with the label’s emblematic logo hanging at the far end of the VIP room. With the usual clutch of company representatives and marketing heads, Sartori swiftly walks in, greeting all ebulliently.
Before he sits for the recorders, he, and only he, notices that the sign is slightly off kilter. Instead of snapping his fingers at his coterie of assistants to fix the aberration, he rushes forward himself, sets it right, and sits down, apologising profusely for the delay. Therein lies what separates him from a phalanx of others, that quest for perfection, that strive to make things just so, noting the devil in the details. This talent has served him well for within a short period of arrival at Zegna, he has escalated from the lofty title ‘Assistant to the Product Manager for Zegna Sartorial line, as his CV states, to the exalted position of Creative Director, Z Zegna, as his embossed calling card reads.
Z Zegna is the, if you will, “younger line” of the high-end menswear from Ermenegildo Zegna and just last year, Sartori was the recipient of the “Best International designer of the year” awarded by GQ Spain.
Over espressos, the conversation meanders about, he flinches when the overused and trite expression ‘metrosexual’ creeps into the dialogue. “I think the phrase metrosexual is over and neandersexual is in,” he says, and then corrects himself. “Well, its not in right now either. Is there a word for it… no. I think men are looking for something new, but they are always a little concerned about looking good, stylish. Easy elegance is what they really want. So now in fashion houses, there’s a focus on research done on fabrics, and quality and treatment. Mixing unusual elements together – metallic with linen, so a material looks soft and strong.”
Returning to the earlier phrase, he simply says, “I don’t like the term metrosexual at all. What does it really say anyway?”
What indeed!
In the age of men’s manicures and facials – and there’s nothing wrong with that - it’s the easy labeling and coinage of trivial expressions that Sartori can live without. So who’s metro… well, really well presented?
“You know, I think in today’s time it’s Jude Law that’s really stylish. Even after the scandals this year (referring to the infamous tryst with the nanny that’s been tabloid fodder!), I think the news of the affair makes him more human and not so fake and puritanical!”
“Among women, Nicole Kidman – which may seem like a cliché answer but she really is so naturally stylish. And then there’s Monica Bellucci who is, of course, so very beautiful, her face is superb, super beautiful. Like a modern Sophia Loren,” he says. Stretching back into the lounge he continues. “But in film, there was no one like Marcello Mastroianni. Everyone refers to La Dolce Vita, not only because the movie was great, but the style in it. For me, the 1950s was a great period for fashion, not the ‘60s because by then I think it was too much. The decade before was when it was still refined.”
Under the aegis of Zegna – including all the lines under that umbrella – none of it be labeled as ‘too much’, the subtle sophistication is synonymous with the brand. Unlike the flash of his contemporaries where perhaps flamboyance has eclipsed elegance, the brand’s adherence to classic good looks is legendary.
So what’s a fashion ‘no no’ at the moment? “White socks with anything and everything! It should only be used in sports. Really. Worse than that is white ankle socks! In my wardrobe, the staples at the moment are blazers and jackets. I have many. I need something on top of my t-shirt or shirt, so I always wear a jacket. Jacket pockets are very smart now, man bags are a little over so a good jacket that will hold all your things is great; your phone, your wallet, your keys. Also I think all men should invest in good leather items like belts and shoes. Something that will last.”
Three male models saunter in, as blinding flashes form the crop of photographers erupts. From where we’re seated, we’re at eye level with the shoes strutting along the makeshift stage. As I’m seated next to the designer, Sartori leans over and says, “You know the most expensive fashion item that I own is a pair of boots. I have this pair of horse hair boots, black ones. I don’t wear them any more because they’re over-used, but I wore them nearly all the time for three years. I remember at the time I bought them, they cost me a quarter of my entire paycheck!”
Is it a complete fashion faux pas to wear sneakers? “No, I like trainers and sneakers, coloured ones, green, red, blue… but only during the holidays or my time off. Actually, even in my casual time, I wear simple leather shoes. Things you can slip on and off easily.”
It goes without saying that his favourite shoe designs are from the Zegna line. Which a laugh, he states, “Zegna does a great line of course, but even when I was an independent fashion consultant, in Hong Kong, many years ago, in the early ‘90s, I liked Zegna for its quality. Actually, my favourite shoe designer at the moment is a woman’s designer, Manolo Blahnik.”
We go through a volley of questions and while most upper tiers of international companies give well rehearsed answers, Sartori is blissfully straightforward and real. For example;
Cuffs or button-hole?
“Cuffs, I think it’s a very simple thing to do to really smarten up your entire look.”
Most cherished fashion item?
“I have a leather blazer with a super soft touch. I’m not just saying this to advertise the Zegna line but I really do own a lot of it. When I design, of course I am making something that I would want to wear.”
High-end or high-street?
“A mixture of both, I think you can buy a really nice, well made pant but wear a very inexpensive t-shirt with it. With your own style, you can personalise more. You know when you see those people, with a head–to-toe look, out of a magazine, they are copying exactly what’s on a mannequin or in a magazine page. There;s nothing unique about that – you must own your own look.”
Fashion disaster?
“The ‘80s! When you look back at the big hair and te huge shoulder pads! I really think that its is a trend that will never come back. At least I hope it won’t!”
Who would design your Oscar suit?
“When Adrian Brody wont he Oscar, he was wearing Zegna. Sean Penn, Al Pacino, they’ve all worn Zegna when they won't! So of course, I would too!”
Of course.
FLIGHT OF FANCY
Photography: William Furniss
Graphics and illustration: Hyvis Tong
Art Direction & Styling: Ann Tsang
Wardrobe & Accessories: Z Zegna and Ermenegildo Zegna
Model; nacho C at Model Genesis
Earlier feature on Zegna; Easy on the Ears
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