Sweetpea Cafe: A Gluten-Free Haven with Exceptional Vegan Delights in Central, Hong Kong
Thursday, 21 May 2026
Goodby My Sweet... pea Cafe: Remembering a favourite bakery: TBT: Throwback Tuesday feature
Sweetpea Cafe: A Gluten-Free Haven with Exceptional Vegan Delights in Central, Hong Kong
Friday, 15 May 2026
Samsen: Hong Kong’s Unassailable Thai Restaurant doesn't have customers as much as it has Devotees
It isn't fine dining, but Samsen sure is great. Deputy Editor P.Ramakrishnan was only too happy to hit this popular eatery once again, having done his R&D for this feature for years.
Without exaggeration or hyperbola, over the past three and a half years, I've had a meal at Samsen, a whopping 546 times. And I have the receipts to prove it! Literally. It's on my app.
It is the consistency; not of the broth that swims in the boat noodle soup, but the quality of food and service at Samsen that has me returning to its alter like the faithful devottee I am. In a city that devours trends and quickly lets it fade (this year its Dubai pistachio, remember when it was salted caramel before that? Rainbow cupcakes prior? No? Well, proves my point), Samsen is the only franchise I'm happy has three hotspots dotted on the island. Not because it chases acclaim or reinvents the wheel, but because it simply gets Thai street food right; uncomplicated, consistent, and perfect every single time. Whether at the original hole-in-the-wall on Stone Nullah Lane in Wan Chai, the Sheung Wan outpost on Jervois Street, or the newer Central branch, this is the eatery that reminds you why queues form and why Hong Kongers will brave subtropical steam for a bowl of noodles.
Walk past the rattan blinds and distressed wood into a space that feels lifted from a Bangkok shophouse: bare concrete, vintage graphics, open kitchens humming with mostly Asian cooks braving the steam (their enviable pores!) and spices. No tablecloths, no pretense. Just wooden chairs that creak under the weight of anticipation and tables turned over with efficient urgency. The menu celebrates Bangkok-style noodles and street classics with bold, layered flavors of sweet, sour, salty, spicy executed with the precision of someone who clearly respects the source material. Chef Adam Cliff’s pedigree (ex-Chachawan, trained under Thai-cuisine masters) shows, yet the soul belongs to the streets.
Order the signature boat noodles and understand the obsession. Dark, rich broth simmered for hours, packed with herbs, spices, and that elusive depth you chase across border towns. Slurpable rice noodles, tender beef or pork, a hit of chili, pickled mustard greens, and those crispy bits for texture. It arrives piping hot, fragrant, restorative. Pair it with som tum-green papaya salad pounded to order, bright with lime and fish sauce- or the personal favourite, chick flat noodle, with green vegetables, baby corn, where sweetness meets crunch and heat in perfect equilibrium. Curries, stir-fries, grilled skewers (including Wagyu options at the expanded spots), fresh roti: everything lands with the same straightforward excellence. Portions satisfy without excess. Prices remain reasonable - dishes hover in the HK$100–200 range - making it accessible rather than aspirational. Which is perhaps why the glossy publications do not feature this fine eatery with the frequency or urgency it deserves. But fun fact, its not only surviving without the media hand job, it's thriving in spite of it.
What elevates Samsen beyond mere competence is its reliability. In a dining scene prone to inconsistency, every single one of my 546 visits has delivered. The food is served fast because the kitchen moves with purpose: satisfy the maximum number of hungry souls in the shortest time. This isn’t arrogance; it’s respect for the customer and the serpentine queue snaking outside. You wait - often 30 to 45 minutes in Hong Kong’s notorious heat and humidity - perched on the pavement or shifting impatiently. The dear ladies at front desk potter by with silver tumblers with coconut water (again, on brand!), but really, guests aren't here for polite impasse, but hardwood seat. You squeeze onto those hard chairs, sweat still beading, and the first spoonful makes every inconvenience evaporate.
Locals and expats alike endure it because the payoff is genuine. No PR firm floods inboxes with seasonal plugs. No influencer carousel required. The proof is empirical: those lines that tumble across the street, day after day, night after night.
Michelin grants it a Bib Gourmand - an honorable mention for value and quality - which it has held for years. Fair enough for what it is. But the broader guide’s framework reveals its limits. Street-food excellence, the beating heart of Asian cuisines, rarely fits neatly into star-chasing rituals built on Eurocentric tasting menus, hushed dining rooms, and sommelier choreography. A panel steeped in those normative standards cannot fully arbitrate the chaotic genius of a Bangkok noodle stall translated to Hong Kong’s alleys. We don’t need their full blessing. Samsen earns its stripes on the street, where it matters: repeat customers, word-of-mouth, and that impatient line of believers.
This is dining democracy at its finest. No reservations for most tables, no stuffiness, just honest Thai cooking that transports without passport stamps and visa tribunals (I have an Indian passport - traveling is never easy).
Central’s branch offers cocktails and a bit more space than it original Wan Chai iteration (as I call it, the mothership), yet retains the core energy. Sheung Wan feels generous and vibrant. Wan Chai remains the scrappy original, closest to the source. All deliver the same promise: come hungry, leave happy, plan to return soon.
Samsen’s refusal to complicate itself is its superpower. It doesn’t chase trends; it perfects a tradition. That is why it is, quite simply, the best eatery in town. No asterisk, no caveat. Just exceptional Thai food, served hot, every time. Go. Wait. Eat. Repeat. You’ll understand. Or as they say back home, You get my meaning?
Sunday, 5 May 2024
Castellana Brings Piedmontese Cuisine to Central, Hong Kong
Helmed by Asti-born young chef Romeo Morelli, Castellana is simply a delight.
Lost in the arteries of Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Castellana was a little gem of a restaurant tucked above the teeming masses up on the 10th floor of Cubus. Now, in its latest, grander incarnation, Castellana continues to infuse creative Piedmontese twists into traditional and authentic regional Italian dishes in a new two-storey space, in Club Lusitano on Ice House Street. Has the new real estate retained the flavour, fun, and culinary calisthenics? We went to find out.
Read the entire feature here at Robb Report Hong Kong.
Sunday, 18 February 2024
The Park Lane Hong Kong Presents a New Farm-to-Table Experience With Thierry Drapeau
In honour of the hotel’s 50th anniversary, the French chef presents a stellar menu at Skye.
Tuesday, 28 April 2020
Society Dining: Dine with Me! Prestige's Monthly Column
Interviews over food and drink always go well... Scratch that. So far, they've gone extremely well as the formality and seriousness of conducting interviews and being on record dissipates over the main course and often vino loosens lips.
Nothing controversial, but Harris did say his sister was the fattest baby in Hong Kong - a gem that came with visual references on his phone and Rene, at the time, was new in my eye-line. Ended up liking all three far more than I did from perfunctory hellos at champagne soirees!
Between them, they've got social media down (Tif has kept her social media mostly private).
Harris Chan
Rene Chu:
Wednesday, 2 June 2010
Currying Flavours: Indian Food in Hong Kong: Novel Dishes: Authentic Taste
P.Ramakrishnan urges people to be adventurous with Indian dishes by sampling the more exotic treats - some not even on the menu.





