HK-based designers have eyes on Woolmark prize

Designer Harrison Wong

Three of Hong Kong's hottest young designers - Hei Lau, Harrison Wong and Polly Siu - are out to impress the judges in the regional final of the International Woolmark Prize competition in Tokyo next week.

Wong is the only Hongkonger in the menswear category. "Working with Merino wool is surprisingly easy, as it's a natural fibre," he says.

"It isn't an unfamiliar material to designers in Hong Kong as, even though we may not have sub-zero winters here, we have a large population that travels in winter - they head to ski resorts, travel to Canada or Beijing in winter and so on, so they do buy winter wear."

With a preponderance of outfits in black, it's no surprise that his aesthetic veers towards the dark side. "I used to design womenswear only and then I switched," he says. "Some might say it's limiting to work on menswear, but within these restrictions I found an exciting challenge. There's an elegance to black menswear. There are some colours in my collection but mostly navy and black. It becomes about the design and the cut, the texture, so the focus goes on design, a natural and easy elegance - with an edge."

Competitions are nothing new for Wong, having won both the Hong Kong Young Designer's Contest and the Asian Fashion Grand Prix Contest in Japan. Acquiring a master's degree with distinction from the London College of Fashion before launching his own retail fashion business, Wong broadened his credentials by designing seasonal collections for international runways in New York, Milan, Sydney and Asia. His first menswear retail shop recently opened at Hong Kong's latest design hub, PMQ. "As everyone knows, rent in this city is a killer. To help young talent and emerging designers, we need more PMQs."

In 2009, Polytechnic University graduate Lau took the leap to launch her own label. "Having worked in the business side of fashion I feel I understand the industry a bit better. It is not just about great design and aesthetics - as important as they are. Is it commercial - will this sell, will people want to buy it or own it? These are the questions in designers' minds."

Designer Hei Lau

Since launching, Lau has showcased in Paris every season. "I attend trade shows a lot and find my customers are worldwide. Hong Kong is not the only market for Hong Kong designers."

When asked to describe her collection, she emphasises draping and elegance. "The challenge in Hong Kong is also that there are too many options and too many brands that have flooded the market. How can an independent voice be heard in this brand chorus?"

Also in the mix is Hong Kong-based Australian designer Siu with her brand Nishe, which she launched in 2008.

"Although my brand and company is in Hong Kong, I think the handwriting of my brand is very English, so working with wool is nothing new for me. My customers are not just here, but globally as I retail online at Asos. In Hong Kong, it's available at Ztampz."

Designer Polly Siu

With a glamorous debut in London in 2010, Siu has customers worldwide. Having studied textile design at Central Saint Martins, Siu faces the challenge of working with wool head on.

"I can't reveal what I plan to do, but it won't vary too much from my brand's natural aesthetic; young, sexy and contemporary."

A panel of judges (from fashion, media and business) will be at the July 17 event to decide which two brands will go through to the final for the menswear and womenswear categories. Winners from each region (Asia, Australia, Europe, India and the Middle East, and the US) receive A$50,000 (HK$363,000) towards their next collection, as well as an invitation to take part in the international finals early next year.

A fiercely competitive enterprise, last year's judges included Franca Sozzani, editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, and L'Uomo Vogue Italia; Colette Garnsey, director of Australian Wool Innovation (managing company for The Woolmark Company); Frida Giannini, creative director at Gucci; Tim Blanks, editor-at-large of style.com; British fashion commentator Alexa Chung, and a host of other fashion players.

Last year, Hong Kong-based designers Kain Picken and Fiona Lau (from ffiXXed) impressed - they placed second - with their exquisite work in shades of navy and white. Their clever reworking of woollen accessories won universal acclaim.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as Designers hope to impress with their original spins

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Fashion four let clothes do the talking

Byline: P.Ramakrishnan. All images Courtesy: Dorian Ho collection.

As Hong Kong fashion week struts down the catwalk in style and stilettos, members of the Hong Kong Fashion Designers' Association (HKFDA) will present a preview of their latest collection to a select number of international buyers.

Between harried preparations for shows and clients, a fashionable foursome took the time to discuss their past collections and imminent ones.

LuLu Cheung: Many 20-somethings pay respect to this demure lady, whose affordable and wearable clothes (under the label "21 Lu") fly off shelves from seven boutiques.

Her clothes this season appear to reflect the designer herself - simple, elegant, youthful and fresh. Ms Cheung has been in the business for nearly two decades, but her work this season goes off in a tangent from her earlier nature- and floral-inspired designs.

This season, Ms Cheung turns to space for her inspiration and reflection.

"This collection will be really modern and the colours will be basics such as white, grey and black. My inspiration is from space and the sky. Clouds, rain, circular patterns, clean cuts, crystal."

Keeping with the theme of simplicity, the designer believes that cotton will never go out of fashion.

"It is pragmatic for the Asian climate, comfortable and easy to wash and wear - with slight delineations to cotton organza and various textures . . . the cloth will have a soft silhouette," she says.

"I've chosen lighter clothes for the spring season. Cotton silk for jackets and cotton mixed with wool for the spring line."

While previous collections were loaded with colourful print work and odes to vintage designs that mingled with modern-day cuts, the coming show will display a more structured and romantic look. Hence the theme has been labelled "Everlasting Melody".

Ika: Slapping a "Made in Hong Kong" title on Ika's clothes would ignore the essence of this pan-Asian designer. Hop-scotching around the region, Ika's inspiration from different lands and people have inspired her signature look, blazed with ethnic patterns and designs. But her latest collection deliberately moves away from this tradition.

"This collection does not present the ethnic touch. Instead it has the younger, feminine approach, play and treatment of fabrics," says Ika. "It is not an ethnic collection. My approach is more in handwork, embroideries, crochets, knits and so on, combined with lace."

Multiple hues and traffic-stopping colours are out as she opts for a soft palette with a splash of vivid colour to create a tasteful counterpoint to the norm. Look out for sea-greens to blue nuance, beige with a dash of earthy red or beige with smatterings of turquoise.

What remains constant are the accessories made from shells, stones, mini-bamboos for belts, sandals and bags, coconut chips engraved into the sandals. She still embraces the tropical and natural feel.

Quality is key and Ika is aware of her fastidious European markets. "I have used best-quality linen from China, synthetics from Taiwan and Korea, lace and pleats from Italy and France. The fabrics used are natural voiles of cotton and linen," she says.

Having recently rounded up the Bali fashion week, Ika is spreading herself thin, working much like a couturier sans frontier . When asked about local designers, she says: "I like Kevin Yeung for being a master of cuttings and pattern. Walter Ma for his creativity and popular appeal and Cecilia Yau for her clever European bitch taste, a mix of femininity and bitchy elegance."

Dorian Ho: When his creations are not being displayed by willowy models in Australia or during the 7th on Sixth fashion show in New York's Bryant Park, Mr Ho calls Hong Kong home.

Many are familiar with "Doriano", the self-proclaiming label sprinkled across 50 outlets in Hong Kong. Floral prints on loose-fitted tops over shimmering satin skirts are just part of his label's legacy and the designer has never been shy of using seemingly contrasting colours. Somehow, the melange works and works well enough to inspire his global market.

Changing tacks this season, Mr Ho steps back in time and ends up in the earlier part of the last century.

"I have been inspired by the 20s' and 30s' look and I am reminiscing the past. This work will be a portrait of, and a portrait to, My Fair Lady and range from casual to relaxed cocktail dresses, glamorous evening wear."

A Victorian elegance will feature in this season's silk, lace, fabrics that dominate Mr Ho's look. Last season was all about summer fun, the cruise line and a Tropicana atmosphere, diametrically opposite to Mr Ho's direction now.

Keeping his eye on the present craze and on vintage vogue, Mr Ho predicts that soft tones, ivory, champagne, beige, pinks, classic burgundy, brown, black will make impressions in the coming season.

"European styles are coming back. Floral prints, many patterns. The accessories I have used will also have an antique and vintage look."

French lace, silk chiffon, silk satin, tulle netting will be featured on catwalks as Dorian's range of cocktail evening wear will project feminine sensuality, the theme of the collection.

Grace Choi: It is the proverbial chicken and egg question: does Ms Choi garner inspiration from Hong Kong's youth or does the youth culture dote on her tailoring? Tough call, but it is easy to see the mass appeal of her work. The youth-identification does not hurt and her simple yet creative garments ride the trend waves well.

Presenting her early spring collection, Ms Choi aims directly at "high fashion for discerning young ladies".

She says: "The applied and the intricate embroidery, small patchwork and appliques will have a casual and hand-crafted feel. The silhouette will not be complicated."

Ms Choi says she has used a mixture of hand-knit and fabric together to create the garment. Some raw-edged and layered styling will also be featured for a more natural feeling.

"I think customers now are much more excited with very delicate artwork so I have used floral patterns and some geometrical patterns. They are a discerning market, aware of what is out there. Natural colours such as cream, reddish brown tones mixed with denim blue. It is easy to match colour and it is suitable for the dressed-down trend."

There will not be flashy accessories to corrupt the look; the only fashion appendages her models will have are stockings and simple sandals.

"I want to reflect the mood in Hong Kong at the moment - many are unemployed and unhappy, so the colours will be natural, not too cheerful and bright. On the other hand, I believe Hong Kong people are strong and I am sure we can face the problems and get our confidence back."


Published in South China Morning Post, 09.07.2002