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How a designer blending European heritage with Asian influences is championing bold, expressive pieces in a post-minimalist world. Narcisa Pheres, of her eponymous brand, in conversation with P.Ramakrishnan.
In magazine publishing, particularly high gloss editions, bigger is decisively better when it comes to accessories of the bejeweled kind. Editors, especially art directors like intricately designed, legacy brands with big shiny rocks that glisten on the page, a little razzle dazzle to catch the eye of the reader. Before there was clickbait, there was eyeballs on newsstands. So we are thrilled that fine jewellery has segued from the delicate, can-you-see-the-stone oeuvre and decisively shed its minimalist straitjacket. That's where Narcisa Pheres, a longtime favourite, emerges as a voice of unapologetic exuberance.
Her latest collections—Fluidity, a gender-fluid ready-to-wear line of gold and diamond pieces inspired by everyday tools, and the couture Garden of Life, an ode to nature's organic forms—capture the zeitgeist of elaborate craftsmanship and personal expression. “I have two recent collections; one is called Fluidity and it’s based on tools: hammer, seesaw, wrench, ruler, screwdriver etc,” she explains. “It’s a gender fluid, unisex collection of ready to wear gold and diamond pieces catering to the design focused, younger generation.”
Meanwhile, the couture offering is “entirely inspired by nature: flowers, butterflies, flowy rivers.” For this exclusive fashion shoot, for the first time, we've booked a male model to showcase - the best of jewellery! We ransacked the Pheres treasure trove of collectables and opted for this menswear shoot, greatly garnished by all her sparkling accessories.
This duality—industrial precision meeting botanical poetry—mirrors broader shifts in fine jewellery. Globally, 2024/2025 and beyond have seen a decisive turn towards elaborated designs, with minimalist trends “entirely gone from fine jewelry,” as Pheres observes. “Designs are becoming very elaborated... Collectors are still looking for rare stones, exquisite designs and elaborated craftmanship.” Pearls, in particular, have staged a triumphant return, often mixed with vibrant gems for eclectic appeal—a trend echoed across runways and red carpets.
The designer for years was known for her fine menswear collection that one could find in the haloed corners of Lane Crawford, her own showroom in Central and dotted around Asia, she would showcase her glamorous goods and wears in trunk shows that VVIPs attended. As Narcisa Pheres pivoted to jewellery full time, it is no wonder her select, versatile pieces can be worn by both men or women. She brings and edge and softness to jewellery that perhaps others in her ilk, don't always bring to the forefront.
In fact, the joy she brings to the table is palpable, be it in the shades she brought to the lining of her suits or the gemstones in her accessories collection, Pheres’ fascination with colour is palpable. “I absolutely love working with Paraiba and rubellites,” she says, highlighting two of the market’s most coveted rarities. Paraiba tourmaline, with its electrifying neon blue-green hue, commands prices from US$1,000 to over US$100,000 per carat for exceptional Brazilian specimens, driven by extreme scarcity and surging collector demand. Rubellites, the raspberry-pink tourmalines, have similarly appreciated, with finer qualities fetching up to US$2,000 per carat amid supply constraints since 2022.
These align with her investment philosophy: “I would say any rare color gem (Paraiba, pigeon blood ruby, a high-quality emerald or a natural blue sapphire) or any diamonds above 1 ct, D, VVS will uphold its value.” In contrast to volatile markets, “Gold prices [are] going up tremendously,” she notes—indeed, gold surged dramatically through 2024-2025, often exceeding 50-70% annual gains amid economic uncertainties, reaching over US$5,000 per ounce by early 2026.
Yet true value, for Pheres, transcends spreadsheets. “Creativity has no price tag so go for bold fine jewelry designs that you love (there is no better investment than investing in yourself and what you Love).” This ethos resonates in Asia, where men’s jewellery has long been normalised, from traditional gold adornments in India to contemporary luxury in China. The Asia Pacific jewellery market, valued at over USD 230 billion in 2025, is projected to grow at a CAGR of 5.9% through 2033, with men’s segments expanding rapidly due to rising disposable incomes and evolving cultural norms.
Pheres observes a convergence: “In Asia, men wearing jewellery is common. Did you find that? ... Used to be very common in Europe: gentlemen had been wearing jewelry for centuries... Same in America, if you actually look at red carpet events, especially the Met Gala, you will notice more and more jewelry on men in the past years.” Recent Met Galas have amplified this, with 2025’s “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” theme showcasing brooches, layered chains, and statement pendants on male attendees—vintage pins, diamond lapels, even embellished canes. “There had always been watches and cufflinks but recently you see men wearing very elaborated designs not just in brooches and pins but pendants, rings, necklaces and bracelets.”
Her advice to men is refreshingly direct: “Don’t be afraid to mix and layer jewelry; just make sure to find your own style rather than follow what’s trending. Don’t be afraid to experiment with color stones or antique jewelry pieces: a nice brooch or a pin will always be a staple of elegance. Don’t over do it!” This measured boldness defines her brand: “A reinterpretation of European court jewels, art deco and art nouveau inspiration mix with some Japanese aesthetics and organic, sculptural shapes.”
Celebrity endorsements underscore her cross-cultural allure. Pieces have graced Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, Amal Clooney, and, in proud moments, Michelle Obama, Madonna, and Rihanna at the Met Gala. “I can’t pick one star as my favorite as they are all very accomplished and inspiring... the biggest surprise had been seeing Michelle Obama wearing a Narcisa Pheres ring.”
Pheres herself curates daily. “I tend to choose my jewelry according to what I wear that particular day... but what’s never missing will be a big pair of emeralds and diamonds earrings and either a flower or a butterfly in diamonds with some colored gems.” Sentimental favourites? “A few actually. Interestingly they either have Colombian emeralds or Paraiba and diamonds (I love green and turquoise colors).”As 2024’s trends carry forward to 2026—pearls resurgent, rare gems prized, men’s adornment normalised—Pheres’ vision feels prescient. For those craving individuality over restraint, her jewels remind us that true luxury is personal, bold, and enduring.
All photography: Alison KwanModel: Fritz at Model OneGrooming, hair, MUA: Gloomy from Karen Yiu and Co.
In magazine publishing, particularly high gloss editions, bigger is decisively better when it comes to accessories of the bejeweled kind. Editors, especially art directors like intricately designed, legacy brands with big shiny rocks that glisten on the page, a little razzle dazzle to catch the eye of the reader. Before there was clickbait, there was eyeballs on newsstands. So we are thrilled that fine jewellery has segued from the delicate, can-you-see-the-stone oeuvre and decisively shed its minimalist straitjacket. That's where Narcisa Pheres, a longtime favourite, emerges as a voice of unapologetic exuberance.
Her latest collections—Fluidity, a gender-fluid ready-to-wear line of gold and diamond pieces inspired by everyday tools, and the couture Garden of Life, an ode to nature's organic forms—capture the zeitgeist of elaborate craftsmanship and personal expression. “I have two recent collections; one is called Fluidity and it’s based on tools: hammer, seesaw, wrench, ruler, screwdriver etc,” she explains. “It’s a gender fluid, unisex collection of ready to wear gold and diamond pieces catering to the design focused, younger generation.”
Meanwhile, the couture offering is “entirely inspired by nature: flowers, butterflies, flowy rivers.” For this exclusive fashion shoot, for the first time, we've booked a male model to showcase - the best of jewellery! We ransacked the Pheres treasure trove of collectables and opted for this menswear shoot, greatly garnished by all her sparkling accessories.
This duality—industrial precision meeting botanical poetry—mirrors broader shifts in fine jewellery. Globally, 2024/2025 and beyond have seen a decisive turn towards elaborated designs, with minimalist trends “entirely gone from fine jewelry,” as Pheres observes. “Designs are becoming very elaborated... Collectors are still looking for rare stones, exquisite designs and elaborated craftmanship.” Pearls, in particular, have staged a triumphant return, often mixed with vibrant gems for eclectic appeal—a trend echoed across runways and red carpets.
The designer for years was known for her fine menswear collection that one could find in the haloed corners of Lane Crawford, her own showroom in Central and dotted around Asia, she would showcase her glamorous goods and wears in trunk shows that VVIPs attended. As Narcisa Pheres pivoted to jewellery full time, it is no wonder her select, versatile pieces can be worn by both men or women. She brings and edge and softness to jewellery that perhaps others in her ilk, don't always bring to the forefront.
In fact, the joy she brings to the table is palpable, be it in the shades she brought to the lining of her suits or the gemstones in her accessories collection, Pheres’ fascination with colour is palpable. “I absolutely love working with Paraiba and rubellites,” she says, highlighting two of the market’s most coveted rarities. Paraiba tourmaline, with its electrifying neon blue-green hue, commands prices from US$1,000 to over US$100,000 per carat for exceptional Brazilian specimens, driven by extreme scarcity and surging collector demand. Rubellites, the raspberry-pink tourmalines, have similarly appreciated, with finer qualities fetching up to US$2,000 per carat amid supply constraints since 2022.
These align with her investment philosophy: “I would say any rare color gem (Paraiba, pigeon blood ruby, a high-quality emerald or a natural blue sapphire) or any diamonds above 1 ct, D, VVS will uphold its value.” In contrast to volatile markets, “Gold prices [are] going up tremendously,” she notes—indeed, gold surged dramatically through 2024-2025, often exceeding 50-70% annual gains amid economic uncertainties, reaching over US$5,000 per ounce by early 2026.
Yet true value, for Pheres, transcends spreadsheets. “Creativity has no price tag so go for bold fine jewelry designs that you love (there is no better investment than investing in yourself and what you Love).” This ethos resonates in Asia, where men’s jewellery has long been normalised, from traditional gold adornments in India to contemporary luxury in China. The Asia Pacific jewellery market, valued at over USD 230 billion in 2025, is projected to grow at a CAGR of 5.9% through 2033, with men’s segments expanding rapidly due to rising disposable incomes and evolving cultural norms.
Pheres observes a convergence: “In Asia, men wearing jewellery is common. Did you find that? ... Used to be very common in Europe: gentlemen had been wearing jewelry for centuries... Same in America, if you actually look at red carpet events, especially the Met Gala, you will notice more and more jewelry on men in the past years.” Recent Met Galas have amplified this, with 2025’s “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” theme showcasing brooches, layered chains, and statement pendants on male attendees—vintage pins, diamond lapels, even embellished canes. “There had always been watches and cufflinks but recently you see men wearing very elaborated designs not just in brooches and pins but pendants, rings, necklaces and bracelets.”
Her advice to men is refreshingly direct: “Don’t be afraid to mix and layer jewelry; just make sure to find your own style rather than follow what’s trending. Don’t be afraid to experiment with color stones or antique jewelry pieces: a nice brooch or a pin will always be a staple of elegance. Don’t over do it!” This measured boldness defines her brand: “A reinterpretation of European court jewels, art deco and art nouveau inspiration mix with some Japanese aesthetics and organic, sculptural shapes.”
Celebrity endorsements underscore her cross-cultural allure. Pieces have graced Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, Amal Clooney, and, in proud moments, Michelle Obama, Madonna, and Rihanna at the Met Gala. “I can’t pick one star as my favorite as they are all very accomplished and inspiring... the biggest surprise had been seeing Michelle Obama wearing a Narcisa Pheres ring.”
Pheres herself curates daily. “I tend to choose my jewelry according to what I wear that particular day... but what’s never missing will be a big pair of emeralds and diamonds earrings and either a flower or a butterfly in diamonds with some colored gems.” Sentimental favourites? “A few actually. Interestingly they either have Colombian emeralds or Paraiba and diamonds (I love green and turquoise colors).”As 2024’s trends carry forward to 2026—pearls resurgent, rare gems prized, men’s adornment normalised—Pheres’ vision feels prescient. For those craving individuality over restraint, her jewels remind us that true luxury is personal, bold, and enduring.
For more on Pheres, check out their official Instagram below or check out their official website Pheres.com
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