Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Behind the label: Young&restless


Who started it? Stylist-turned-designer Ashburn Eng created young&restless just over a year ago, after years of dolling out advice to designers on how to amplify their looks with a cut here and a dash of colour there. Eng says he wants his avant-garde, ready-to-wear clothes to deliver a strong feminist statement. Anthems of female solidarity, ranging from Cyndi Lauper's Girls Just Want To Have Fun to Beyonce's Run The World, inspired Eng's latest collection for the "free-spirited, confident and unpretentious woman, who is sophisticated yet bold enough to daydream".

Why we love it: according to the website, it's "underground luxury with distinctive urban aesthetics", but we love the geometry of it. It's a return to the "Japonaiserie" movement of the 1980s, with inventive shapes and monochrome tones, only with a looser and lighter silhouette, using sheer, silk chiffon and modal jersey in black, white, stone grey and metallic shades.

"I was mainly inspired by the fusion of good and evil spiritual forces," says Eng. "This collection illustrates an extension of my interest in spiritual and austere elements, [as] evident in the monastic looks."

Young&restless was the only Asian label to present a collection at the 30th edition of Modefabriek's Next and Cutting Edge show in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, in January.

What we'd pick: for the bold and the dutiful, the suit dress (left; HK$2,280), with its conservative facade but edgy cut, does the trick. The trapezoid top (HK$1,199) and high-waisted jeans with handkerchief drape (both above; HK$1,559) hit all the right angles.

Where can you get it? Young&restless is available at www.young-and-restless.com.


Published in Post mag on Oct 02, 2011

By P.Ramakrishnan
(ramakrishnanp@hotmail.com)

Monday, 3 October 2011

My life: Shreya Ghoshal: Accomplished Singer of note and Reality TV Show Winner is The Voice of Youth

One of Bollywood's most recognisable voices talks to P.Ramakrishnan ahead of her scheduled performance last night at PolyU, Hong Kong. 


FIRST NOTES
Although I first became known as a singer through Sa Re Ga Ma [an early Indian version of American Idol] as an 11-year-old, I'd been singing since I started talking. I learned from my parents - we are a very musically and culturally aware family. Though our family is Bengali, my childhood memories are of growing up in Rawatbhata in Rajasthan. It's in a remote area and cut off from the township, so I was surrounded by a lot of traditional and cultural activities. We had no connections to show business - my family is full of scientists and engineers- but my parents were very encouraging about my interest in music. One of my earliest memories is singing in a hall when I was about five. My teacher took me to this boring concert and asked me to sing a song from a film. I sang Aur Iss Dil Mein Kya Rakha Hai ["what else is in my heart?"] and the entire audience burst into applause after just two lines. I'll never forget that moment - it was like the first experience of love, but from an audience. My father wanted me to be properly trained as a singer. To him, this was more important than fame and fortune. My family values education and academic achievement above all, so when I got to Mumbai, in 1997, I focused on learning. I wasn't looking for fame or glamour, unlike millions who come to Mumbai to make it in the film industry. I had no aspirations to be in cinema and I still don't.

REALITY CHEQUE

In Mumbai, I took lessons from legendary musical director Kalyanji and also learned about classical Indian music. The belief that Mumbai is all about pop songs and Bollywood is wrong- there are many incredible teachers in the city. I think learning is a constant process, even if I don't go to one particular guru anymore. I still practise, but not every day; with concerts, recordings and shooting for the TV show [as a judge on India's X Factor], I'm happily but constantly busy. The main difference I notice between youngsters of today and from when I was an aspiring singer is the level of confidence. The amount of intelligence and presence on stage now is incredible. Even while still in their teens they know how to win over an audience. But there's also an innocence lost, the beauty of naivety has gone as the current generation is fed on reality TV, which didn't exist when I was growing up. When I see parents trying to groom a child for stardom, sometimes it's a bit too much. The new generation doesn't seem to know the wonder of music, they aren't seeking enlightenment, there's no appreciation of how profound music can be. Now it's all about ratings, concerts and money. When I was a kid, I didn't do concerts for big pay cheques.

THE FAME GAME

My life changed after producer/director Sanjay Leela Bhansali discovered me on television. He came to our house and offered me an opportunity to sing in his magnum opus Devdas [2002], the biggest musical at the time. I was going to be a playback singer [providing pre-recorded vocals] for the beautiful Aishwarya Rai. I couldn't believe it. The songs were rooted in classical music and I was thrilled. At the time, Aishwarya was facing a lot of flak in the media and a lot of rumours and gossip, but she was so unaffected by it that I feel I learned something from her - to ignore the riff-raff. I've learned not to read any press about myself, good or bad. I've never been a victim of malicious gossip - well, if I have, I'm blissfully ignorant. I've never had a PR person. I've never wanted to be on a scroll on a newsreel. I'm not a manipulator of self-publicity and have stayed rooted to my family and music. I hope my singing alone will bring me all that I deserve.

MUMBAI MAYHEM

Although I'm just 27, I feel old. I've seen so much. But those who say I haven't had to struggle are exaggerating. My father ran from pillar to post in the early days. My family faced troubles that I wish to wipe from my memory, as I don't want to mull on the past. Songs that were promised, payments that were never made, songs I sang that other people ended up recording over, I've seen it all. I do remember the people who treated me badly, but I forgive and try to forget. I think I've grown a bit thick-skinned after my years in Mumbai. In this industry, if you aren't strong, you'll get eaten up. After all my rounds on the reality shows, the performances, the applause, the concerts, the struggle began after reality TV. Gaining success was easy, maintaining it was not. Although doing concerts and performing on stage is great fun- especially with audience interaction - true Indian music is not about performance. There's a belief in our culture that music is for personal and divine growth, a form of spirituality that makes us one with the lord. When I study and practise classical music, I close my eyes and sing for no one but me. There's a certain magic to that, which is lost on the new generation. With certain kinds of reality shows - with their dramatic cuts and staged wars- the new generation is being prevented from developing a voice to find this form of divinity.

REEL LIFE

I've been offered roles in films but I've turned every one of them down. When I met the great Indian actress Rekha, she grabbed my face and told me that I must do films. Another time I was recording a song in Chennai and a producer said I reminded him of legendary Indian actress Sridevi- I love her, but I don't think it was a valid comparison. [Bhansali] jokes with me that we'll make a film, but as my mentor and guardian I know he won't. I won't sacrifice my music - and doing films would take me away from music. I've worked hard for everything I've achieved. I won't be a mediocre actress when I can be a good singer.

See earlier features:

Professionally Speaking


A career change might give you the flexibility and drive you've been looking for. But do your homework before entering a new field, writes P. Ramakrishnan. (ramakrishnanp@hotmail.com)

ON PAPER HER CAREER AND lifestyle were sterling. Five years at a top law school with impeccable grades and honours from an Ivy League university led to her being hand-picked by a top firm. As expected, a substantial salary and bonus along with annual holidays to luxurious destinations such as Tuscany followed. The years of experience made her a shoo-in for partnership, but a decade into a profession as a litigation lawyer at a top law firm, she changed career and entered the recruitment industry. While initially settling for less pay, she is happier than ever.

Capricious and whimsical? Hardly. Annie Tang is an example of many women who, after much thought and research, change careers.

"It's common for successful women to shift their career gears even when they are doing well," says Louisa Yeung, a director at Michael Page International. "Women in general will put a higher priority on family. My reason for making a switch from professional to recruitment [Yeung is also a qualified accountant with nine years experience] was mainly because I want to have my own family.

"Professional life is too demanding and pressurised and I wanted to strike a healthy balance between career and family life. So I made the change."

While the money thrown around by rival firms can cause companies to lose their top women, career changes are not always money related. Joanne O'Reilly, an associate director, Banking and Legal department of Michael Page, says: "From a banking perspective, I've seen experienced lawyers/transactions people move to control/risk roles which have less volatile hours. The existing skill set is highly transferable and while the base salary numbers are not widely different, the discretionary bonuses would be quite a bit less. Several of our experienced hires at Michael Page were professional accountants, operations people - for example, settlements, trade support, client services - and lawyers who made the transition to professional recruitment."

In a mercenary society such as Hong Kong, more-work-less-pay might seem a contradiction in terms but O'Reilly says: "Often the driving factors behind these moves relate to consistence in hours, reduced travel, more control over workload, the ability to undertake some work from home/off-site, the ability to balance family commitments, while still retaining a reasonable salary/total compensation in return."

So what are the first steps to take when you want to change? As the adage goes, look before you leap.

Erika Humby, from Talent2 Recruiting firm, lists a 12-step programme but the initial plan of action is simple: "If you've been in the same job for many years and are looking for a career change, the first thing to do is talk to a career counsellor or a good recruiter, research the new area you are looking to move into, make sure you understand all the pros and cons of the new area, position and any companies you are looking to target," Humby says

Being prepared and aware are key, and although your own company need not know that you're looking at the exit sign, some key advisers do, says Humby. "Know what steps you need to take to get where you want to go and talk to people in the new industry to get a good idea about what it's like. Be confident that you can make the change and write a plan of action with what steps you need to take to be successful."

Tang says a professional move is rarely an overnight decision after a bad week at work. "It wasn't on a whim. There are a few people, for personal reasons, who change career course 10 to 15 years into their job, when they achieve a lot and think, 'This isn't what I really want'."

She says this thought is common and does not mean a mid-life or mid-wife crisis. Career goals are often etched out at a young and naive age and once you've attained all you've set out to do, the yearning for more remains. "I was seeking different challenges, I wanted more people interaction. I was that lawyer swamped with paperwork and working long hours - which I didn't mind in the beginning. But the work became quite repetitive and routine. There wasn't much of a challenge. I really wanted a change."

And change she did. She took charge of her life by doing research, making sure she was financially secure, asking and meeting the right people and hitting her target. "Although I'm not a lawyer, I knew a lot of people in the field and know the ins-and-outs of the business. With my list of contacts and industry know-how, and my desire to work with people, the new job as a recruiter for law firms is ideal. It's worked out well for me."

Others choose to take time off and study instead of immediately shifting into a new office. According to Humby, looking at educational programmes that relate to your new career is fine but MBAs are not always necessary. "It depends on where you are looking to go and what you want to do. An MBA is great to have but they're a lot of work and expensive, so make sure you have the basics first."

Anthony Thompson, managing director of Michael Page International (Hong Kong & Southern China), says: "MBAs are not essential but can sometimes be advantageous. While no one needs to start from scratch, they must be realistic in that a career change will often entail a pay reduction - but this is a short-term issue and if they are committed to their new career direction they will be rewarded."

Resigning from your current company isn't inevitable or obligatory. "If you've been working in the same role for 10-15 years, there's a good chance you enjoy working with your employer and have a good relationship. People should investigate options to change their career within that organisation because their employer may facilitate this and assist with supportive training. The other benefit is they will be more likely to maintain their salary level this way as opposed to taking a career change pay cut by going to another employer."

Being practical and realistic is the overwhelming message. "If you're an HR manager and want to be a fighter pilot, then obviously it will be tough because they are very different jobs," says Humby. "Have a clear plan and make sure you write it down. And be positive."

Fresh Start



* Be realistic. Have a clear plan and make sure you write it down.


* Ensure you are qualified or taking steps to show that you are committed to your new area of choice by looking at what relevant qualifications you need.

* Be clear on your new choice and understand what expectations, duties, key competencies and skills are required so you can ensure your CV reflects similar duties, skills and attributes. This allows the hiring manager or recruiter to scan your CV and see that you have the core competencies and relevant skills to do the required job.

* Talk to a career counsellor or good recruiter to get advice on your CV and what you need to do to get where you want to go.

* Get the timing right. If there is a time when there are more roles available then make sure you know when this is. For example, if you want to get into banking when most banks are on a headcount freeze, then obviously it's not a good time to enter this field.

* Develop networks and contacts from the field you are looking to move to.

* Commit to change and make it happen.

Sunday, 2 October 2011

Behind the label: Sandro



Who started it? Launched in 1984 by husband and wife team Didier and Evelyne Chetrite, Sandro opened its first boutique on rue Vieille du Temple, in the heart of the Marais district of Paris, France. What started as a whim, with a series of patchwork dresses with bubble sleeves, captured the bohemian mood of the time and has since blossomed to encompass 140 stores worldwide. A childhood spent in Morocco informs Evelyne's designs and the mixing and matching of colours, fabrics and patterns is a recurring theme throughout the brand's collections.

Why we love it: casual Parisian chic at affordable prices aside, it's the attention to detail that catches our eye, as seen on the monochrome ensemble topped with leopard-print collars and the black pencil trousers with simple white piping. Whether it's matching fabrics such as leather and wool or a multicolour print on the lining of a deceptively simple coat, classic silhouettes are spruced up with touches of whimsy. Most of the pieces have a temperate palette but there are splashes of colour for the confident consumer.

What we'd pick: the wool duffle coat with fur collar (HK$6,145), coral silk shirt (HK$2,145) and dinner-suit trousers (all above left; HK$2,620) and the black shawl cardigan with clip (HK$2,990) worn with the black cotton pique dress with leopard-print collar (both left; HK$2,295) make for chic daytime outfits.

Where can you get it? Sandro is available at Rue Madame, Lee Gardens Two, Causeway Bay, tel: 2972 2021.


By P.Ramakrishnan
ramakrishnanp@hotmail.com

The Goods: My Weekly Column in Post magazine, South China Morning Post




Fast track Tracksuit bottoms play that all-important role of pyjamas, workout wear and Sunday supermarket attire. At least with Diesel's latest line you can be fashion forward while waiting in the queue, with items such as the track pants in blue (left; HK$990) or hammer-time check (top left; HK$600). Diesel is in Pacific House, 20 Queen's Road Central, tel: 2525 0540....


Sep 25, 2011






All shook up

If you're feeling a little blue as the summer comes to an end, get some deflective sole therapy with the adidas SLVR autumn-winter collection's hip blue trainer (above; HK$1,590). Elvis would surely approve: the blue suede shoe is made with nylon, reducing the overall weight. Adidas SLVR is available at Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, Central, tel: 3695 3388.

Geek chic

For the gadget-crazy, Piquadro has unveiled a series of leather cases to carry your precious hardware safely and stylishly. The cases are made of soft leather with chamois interiors. The iPad2 case (right; HK$1,595) has a slot inside the flap cover that acts as a stand to keep the screen tilted in display position. Also worth a look are the dark blue Samsung Galaxy Tab case (below right; HK$1,343) and red iPhone 4 holder (above; HK$487). Piquadro is at Times Square, Causeway Bay, tel: 2506 2238.

One for all

Can one brand be all things to all men? D&G apparently thinks so. Whether it's relatively conservative attire (above left; suit HK$16,500, shirt HK$2,500 and tie HK$1,400) or a fur-lined, blinged-out ghetto-fabulous outfit (above; fur vest HK$50,400, T-shirt HK$2,300, trousers HK$3,100 and shoes HK$2,900), the label has something for everyone. D&G is in Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2317 1836.

Skin show

Bottega Veneta's latest accessories line features belts made from interlocked leather. The glossy sheen of the espresso intrecciato vachette belt (above left; HK$4,380), the tourmaline intrecciato nappa belt (above centre; HK$3,980) and the nero intreccio scolpito cuir belt (above right; HK$3,100) feature stylishly textured and intricate patterns. Bottega Veneta is in The Landmark, tel: 2973 0882.
Sep 11, 2011





Kicking off

Although fashionistas worship overpriced shoes, there are decent styles out there that won't break the bank. We like the range at H&M, where the focus is on simplicity and function. The cognac boots (above; HK$599) and two-tone lace-up shoes (left; HK$399) mirror trends seen on many catwalks this season. Andreas Lowenstam, menswear designer at H&M, says, "Clean and sharp is the look for men this autumn, updated with seasonal colours and materials." H&M is at 68 Queen's Road Central, tel: 2110 9546.

Play the field

Qeelin made its mark with jewellery that celebrated Chinese aesthetics. Its new Chan's Collectibles line, however, plays tribute to vintage toys. The Roobot collection (featuring five styles of vintage robots), for example, is a miniature ode to classic Hollywood sci-fi flicks. It's retro chic, but with a modern twist, and every limb on the gold and diamond-encrusted pendant (right) is movable. At HK$158,000, it makes for a serious boy toy. The range is available at Qeelin, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2389 8863.

Klein cuts

Due to its ubiquitous underwear collections, it's easy to forget that Calvin Klein also does understated ready-to-wear lines for men and women. The label's autumn-winter line is imbued with the casual confidence the brand has become renowned for. The Calvin Klein Jeans warm wool alpaca blend jumper (HK$1,690), regular-cut jeans (both left; HK$1,290) and black heavy cotton zip-up cardigan (above left; HK$1,390) are cavalier cool. Calvin Klein Jeans is at Times Square, Causeway Bay, tel: 2506 9506.

Sep 04, 2011



By P.Ramakrishnan
(ramakrishnanp@hotmail.com)

Behind the label: Back Label


Who started it? Italian jetsetters Amy and Filippo Perricone established Back Label three years ago, creating a luxurious yet casual line of loungewear that's equally stylish inside or out. The husband-and-wife team wanted to combine extreme comfort with extreme elegance, and have perfected the design of cool basics.

Why we love it: seamless underwear; seamless dresses; seamless tops. Back Label's heat-bonding technique holds fabrics in place for a smooth and sensuous fit. All fabrics are free of toxic material and pesticides, and are made from mineral, such as seaweed and bamboo, and other natural fibres. Natural dyes (from blueberries to Ceylon tea) are used on cashmere, and there's an exclusive detergent, with added rice protein, to preserve the garments. Essential oils such as jasmine sambac and white grapefruit provide a delicate aroma.

What we'd pick: we love the androgynous black and cream boyfriend boxer (HK$360). The Kimono dress in black (above right; HK$1,580) and long cross-back dress (HK$1,520), with matching cardigan (both right; HK$1,520), lend themselves to great evening ensembles.

Where can you get it? Back Label is available at Konzeep, 50 Tung Street, Sheung Wan, tel: 2803 0339.


P. Ramakrishnan
ramakrishnanp@hotmail.com
Published in Post magazine on Sep 25, 2011

The Pleasure of My Company: Interview with Hong Kong's Young Entrepreneurs



Entrepreneurship in Hong Kong is a mixed bag of perks and pitfalls, writes P.Ramakrishnan.
(ramakrishnanp@hotmail.com)


This risk is great. The rewards unknown. But these seven young people broke free from contracts and companies to set up their own businesses. On the view that in life you can be a pilot or passenger, the seven have engineered their own career path with ventures they are passionate about.

While some have a staff of one (themselves), others have expanded to encompass a team of up to seven people. With each passing year and growing member of staff, the responsibility proves greater as well as the challenges that vary from keeping afloat, and finessing the tricky manoeuvre of expanding without imploding.

Some got private funding (which often translates to benevolent parents and their cheque books), others were resourceful enough to get investors or to find their fiduciary fuel in a lifetime of savings.

While nearly all sing the joy of working without a boss, they also concur that this very hard work.

“There is no off switch,” laments Kanchan Punjabi, who started the fashion firm Kanchan Couture. “You’re constantly thinking of one or another aspect that’s somehow traces back to work-related material.”

Carmen Li, who launched a publishing venture 21 Concepts, agrees that the challenge lies is to incorporate a personal life into the unremitting pressures of launching a business. “The biggest long term goal for me, especially as a new mom, is to learn to balance work life with family life. I’m constantly thinking of one or the other.”

And yet, here are seven people that mind their own business:

Vivien Li (23), Lotus Models
“I used to work as an agent at a modelling agency but that closed down. I spent two months waitressing at Taste In, a Korean restaurant, and then decided that since a lot of my old clients were still calling me for models, I might as well start my own business. I had a lot of contacts in the field, and I started getting free-lance jobs. I thought, I can do this on my own so I created Lotus Models.

It’s mainly a modelling agency, but depending on what my clients want, I can also provide make-up artists, photographers, dressers and assistants for events and shows. I’ve worked behind the scenes on many big shows such as Gucci, Prada and Cartier in Hong Kong.

My goal right now is just to familiarise myself with the industry more, know more people – and they in turn know me. In the long term, I hope to be able to say that my agency is one of the best in Hong Kong.

Right now I don’t have the moolah to expand what I have. So I need a few more jobs, maybe save up for a couple years and I should be all set!

I haven’t had any help from an agency or the government to set up my small business. But I have a very supportive family, so a lot of the setting up involved my parents and my brother. My dad bought a lot of things I needed for my company like desks, hole punchers, letter openers. Stuff I need and stuff that costs money. My brother is a website designer, and he’s helping me set up my website for free. At least I saved a couple of thousand dollars there.

I studied ancient history in Royal Holloway, University of London – nothing I did there is aiding me now!

The initial hurdles still exist. As a new agency, I don’t have a lot of models to call my own. I don’t have a comprehensive list of clients either – but it’s growing every day.

Most of the jobs that come in are from families and friends, and I still need to expand past that. I just need to work harder and the hurdles I have now will disappear.

Kanchan Suresh Panjabi (28), Kanchan Couture

I set up Kanchan Couture in September 2007, creating my own line of women’s wear and accessories. I have been designing and working in the fashion industry for close to seven years now. I created my first full collection in 2004 and had my first exhibition in London in 2006, eventually launching my own line in 2007.

It is inspired by migration, globalisation, slippery identities, fleeting memories and our ever-evolving civilisation. Kanchan Couture is my creative vision.

I returned to Hong Kong from London to launch my own label, my own passion to transform classic shapes from a bygone era in combination with opulent Indian textiles creating a wearable wardrobe for everywoman.

The collections include eveningwear, daywear, tailoring, bridal gowns, leather belts and accessories. I hope to branch into shoes soon – we are relaunching our online shop (buy.kanchancouture.com) and a new jewellery collection.

There’s been no government help or corporate funding. We did try once to get some funding for a trade fair but it did not go through.

There were two main challenges that I faced as designer in Hong Kong, one being not receiving much support from the local “guys” such as the government, big corporations, the trade department. I think this is somewhat different in the UK or Europe. The start-ups and the industry in general are more supported, and can get funding and help.

The second, the habits of the Asian consumer are a mystery; they are known to be status and image driven and would rather buy a brand over a young designer.

This is a bit different in other parts of the world, especially the UK as there is a range of consumers and everyone is looking for the next big thing – so a young designer can have his/her own followers because its not a global brand. Here, it’s different. But slowly this is changing and more people are looking for something different.

Douglas Pieterse (29), Sweat Limited
Sweat is a personal training studio that specialises in different types of training. We designed our studio for versatility to reflect the many different types of training we incorporate into our clients’ routines to keep things fun and interesting.

As my wife and I are both in the same business of personal training, we found that we were spending way too much on renting facilities to train clients. On top of that, a few of the studios had shut down and in a matter of two to three years, some of our clients had been switched to three or four different studio locations and each of them had their downfalls.

I teach some kids classes and we decided to promote the kids programme over the summer and had a really good response. Our biggest problem was where to train the children with a facility that would allow for the full studio to be renting for a decent rate, as well as would be kid friendly. It was literally impossible to find a place that could accommodate what I wanted as far as that went.

After discussing with my wife, we raised the possibility of having our own studio and from there, we spoke of the idea to a few clients who, for the most part, were very supportive of the idea. We decided to seek funding and then there was no turning back.

We want to add a couple trainers to our team. We would like to see our business grow to a stage where we can branch out to expand the kids programme to its own venue and have a team of personal trainers working for us.

Since it’s our first time having a facility, everything required research and a lot of consulting our friends for advice. Renting a space in a good location for a decent price was a bit of a challenge but we found a great place for which we could envision a good layout.

We ran into a few obstacles along the way and realised that renovations are full of setbacks and delays and of course a whole lot of unaccounted expenses.

Jason Yam (30), Hong Kong Basketball Academy
I have been a teacher in Hong Kong for five years and coached high school and middle school levels. I also played professionally and the one thing I thought was missing in Hong Kong was an academy/programme, similar to those offered in the US, where kids could focus solely on becoming better, smarter basketball players.

So I set out to create a programme that would help kids elevate themselves, by working with other talented kids to create a new level of basketball for kids in Hong Kong.

My business idea took years in the making. It took me this long to get all the logistics organised and start marketing. The initial response was strong and we are hoping to grow the programme and add more students, age groups, even a girls’ division.

The first semester has been amazing. The kids are so enthusiastic and I love working with them.

Basically there are two goals, goals for me and goals for the kids. For the kids my goals are to have them become better athletes and learn the game. I want them to become good sportsmen and women with one another and learn to work in team environments. I hope that they keep coming back because that would mean their having fun, learning lots, and their parents feel the same.

For myself and the business I want to add a few more classes so I can split the age groups into similar skill levels. The hard part will be keeping the class sizes small so there is a good level of interaction between coach and student. In the long run, I want the school to become recognised as the premier school for young athletes to become elite level basketball players.

It would be absolutely fantastic if we could get some students to play for some universities in the US and Canada.

Though we’ve got no external aid, I do hope to collaborate with financers because aid can help potential kids who are in financial need. I never had a doubt in mind that whatever hurdles came my way I could tackle them.

One thing I didn’t foresee is the high school level players having so much homework to do. It’s actually been a blessing because this has made me go back to the drawing board and to think about how I can offer academic support to the players and to really be a versatile programme.

Fortunately enough I know a lot of great teachers. I will be soon offering a “homework” club ran by professional teachers. Let’s just say our new motto is “ball above all … except homework”.

Carmen Li (30), 21 Concepts
21 Concepts is a publishing and media company. I publish a monthly magazine, Crave, and my team and I organise small scale gastro/wine events. We also own an online magazine www.cravemag.com.

I’ve always been in publishing, I worked at a newspaper years ago – the South China Morning Post – and for other fashion and lifestyle magazines. I wanted to set up my own title and business, for a while I even thought of opening a restaurant. But I stuck to what I knew, publishing.

Convincing the market – by that I mean media buyers – that there is a readership demand for this publication was the first of many challenges. At the time of launch, there weren’t any high-end English magazines that focused on the subject of gastronomy. It took a few months to persuade our advertisers to support our launch issue and in the end, many did. We’re in our second year now and still going strong.

An unexpected challenge we have, as a new company, was learning how to stay ahead creatively. There is a prevalent “copycat” culture in Hong Kong and we strive to think of original material for every issue. You cannot stop others from copying you but you can learn to stay ahead of the game.

The biggest lessons I learned from past experiences and having been at this for a while now, is to invest sensibly – and to not owe money to anyone or any bank or other entity. I’ve seen publishers who place too much emphasis on promotions and marketing to the extent that they run out of budget for editorial content.


Also, I would avoid bartering for advertisements. The company is nothing without the product, I work closely with my staff and respect everyone’s creative input and ideas. This is one of my life lessons.

To have readers embrace Crave as one of Hong Kong’s leading gastronomy publications is my ultimate goal as a businesswoman, but as a new mom, I also know that I need to step away and balance my private and office life. I take everything a step at a time.


Elaine Young (32), LAByrinth
LAByrinth is a communications studio and biotech fashion brand whose product ranges include AMULA (a play on the words amulet and emulate) DNA Jewellery (containing your choice of person, plant or animal DNA) and “HOST – for your living things” – a line of graphics, clothing and objects made from and/or inspired by microscopic images.

I didn’t always do this. I have a fine arts degree in philosophy and political theory from the University of Toronto. I created this brand in my early 20s, I’ve been doing it for 10 years.

Before I set up my own business in 2005, I used to work in film and television, as an art director. But deep down, I wanted to create.

I was so obsessed with the ideas that I had to create my own line. For better or for worse, I was obsessed and that sort of tunnel vision doesn’t allow you to see failures or pitfalls, you just jump.

I didn’t really think too much about going off on my own. People have to be fearless when they create their own business.

In the long run, yeah, if my brand is a multinational corp, yes please, that would be great! But in the short run, it would be nice to feel some sort of solidarity within the fashion community in Hong Kong. The solidarity is missing in our city. I would really love to find a public relations agency that understood the brand, the concept of why I do what I do, that it’s not just another fashion brand, and spread the word.

When you’re an independent entity, finances are always in issue, from rent to salaries to monthly overhead. I want to move on with the collection, and move on with the brand, but the shop was draining my time. And, as much as I loved having a shop, now I have my own studio.

I’m about to debut the HOST clothing line in November.

I’m fortunate that I have received help, from the Hong Kong Science and Technology Parks. They basically gave us a studio, and helped with promotion. It’s behind funding innovative projects in Hong Kong. Our biotech partner, Hai Kang Life Corporation help with all our technology work.

Understanding how to achieve a high quality product working in China is the hurdle.

The reason for the brand is education through fashion, I’m happy to tell people about it. When they ask questions, I’m so open to that as it’s the whole point of the brand. It’s about dialogue. I firmly believe that we shape the things we build - thereafter, they shape us.

Maxime Dautresme (32), Substance
What is our company? Well, the spiel is, it’s a one stop brand and design agency specialised in brand strategy, brand identity, advertising and design.

Substance was founded in 2007 in Paris. I then took the company to Miami and established it there as well. I launched Substance Hong Kong in March 2011.


The greatest advantage of having your own company is that you get to choose your client and the people you want to work for. You need to like the people you work for. That is a big plus!

When I worked for a … a large corporation, it was so political, and you often didn’t like the erratic people you worked for or you had a confused client. But now, I choose. And because of that, I can give them [clients] 100 per cent. The pay might be less and the hours are longer – we’ve clocked in 17-hour days – but you love what you do so you don’t feel it.

The biggest disadvantage is that you never step out of the office. Even on holiday, you do a lot more than what’s necessary because you’re so involved in every aspect, its micro and macro management on all levels. There’s no separation of task, client servicing, new business development, getting the morning coffee for everyone – it all depends on you.

When we launched, to be very honest, I was fearless, I had the opportunity, the background, the know-how. When you know what you’re doing, you don’t need a large corporate structure, you’re selling something creative.

I knew it would work – it was already working on a small scale before when I was freelancing. When I got a partner, a financial backer, we set up the company.

A friend of mine helped set up this business, [to act as] the money side, the silent partner. From just being me, to now, well, my company has eight full-time people and six freelancers working on different projects.

There has been no government aid but I did find someone that I felt was on the same page as me and really understood the business to partner with.

The initial hurdle was finding the right partner was the most important thing – I’ve heard terrible stories of betrayal between partners here in Hong Kong so it’s essential to partner with someone you trust.

Building the right team is another issue as just one person can affect the capability and dynamic of an entire team. But we are expanding so… that’s a nice problem to have.



It’s a big step to hire someone. You go through a long interview process. For me, the vision was more than just the work, we hired people who were passionate about their work. They’re all designers. The way they talk about the work is so important, because if they didn’t care, if they were bored, then the work is reflective of that. I relate to the passion. You can’t do your own business – no matter what the business is – if you’re not passionate.


NOTES:
My original draft of the feature. Due to the Greek blah di blah, feature got uber cut by the time it hit print. Among other goofs. Pleasure and perils of publishing... Ten years in the biz and every day is a surprise.