Eastern Promises: Rise of the Asian model

Note: Its funny what you find in the archives of SCMP - including features I wrote....  and have zero memory or recollection of. From 2011 no less.

Eastern Promises

Text: P. Ramakrishnan

As they pony trot down the catwalk, in a parade of fashion forward fierceness, Jia Jing (New York agency), Jing Ma (Muse agency), Jae Yoo (Major agency) are languid in their motion across the stage as their expressionless visages are telecast around the globe. These guys aren’t doing turns at Shanghai fashion week, nor will they be seen in Hong Kong’s. Far too busy and booked up under the tents at Lincoln Centre in New York this week as they, along with a fraternity of other Asian male models, tan under the flashbulbs of the most prestigious and influential fashion shows in the western hemisphere.

This year, fashion weeks in New York London, Milan and Paris will churn out their wardrobe and accessories upon Asian bodies (often Eurasian to be exact) as models from Taiwan, China and even Hong Kong are fast making themselves visible in captions in print and television.

Is it an Asian invasion in front of the camera? Hardly. But they are encroaching the fashion runways. Paul Morgan, London based photographer who has shot advertising campaigns for many luxury brands –including Lancel with Asian/Eurasian models – doesn’t find a huge change, but says, “Armani has used Asian models, so has D&G, but I don’t particularly see a great trend of Asian models – men or women – being used often enough.”

The diversity hires are small in numbers – but they are visible. Like their female counterparts (Liu Wen, Shu Pei, Fei Fei Sun, Ming Xi and Bonnie Chen) will the men pull as much couture clout?

Riccardo Tisci’s Spring/Summer 2011 Givenchy Haute Couture collection drew its primary inspiration from Japan, particularly the work of the late legendary Butoh dancer Kazuo Ohno. Tisci showcased all his ensembles with an all-female, all Asian cast of models.

Well Asian men get the same privileges? Perhaps one day. Unlikely for now. Stylist to Maggie Q and Vogue contributor Sean K says, “There just aren’t than many Asian men casting for the big brands. Philip Huang’s one of the top male models who’s worked with the biggies but where are the other guys?”

Photographer Morgan concurs, “While it is true that there are fewer Asian male models- other factors are important. If you have the right look, build and attitude. No one’s ever said don’t use so-and-so because he’s Chinese or Japanese.”

Franic Lane

Jaymie Moran founder and editor of Asiance Magazine based in New York says, “Last week I was at a Nylon Magazine party and spotted this Asian looking male model. Turned out his name was Francis Lane. He's half Chinese, half English. I really think he could be the modern day Marcus Schenkenberg or Mark Vanderloo. I recommended him to Roman Young, Director of New Faces at Wilhelmenia [modeling agency]. Apparently they loved him! That's all I can say at this point as I'm pretty sure things are in the works. So yes. I think you are going to see a rise in the Asian male model over the next few years. Its already starting.”

Most Asian models head to the west, return to Asia and don’t go back. Nothing to do with their experience but because work in Asia keeps them busy.

“Fact is, Asian male models don’t make much money doing editorials or catwalks – none of them do,” says Sean K. “I remember sitting backstage of a major show with all the top guys and one of the boys said, ‘I really hope to get a cologne/perfume ad’. That’s the dream. For the big magazine shoots, male models get nothing but credit in the back page. Get a campaign to make real money.”

Godfrey Gau for LV

Taiwanese model Godfrey Gau leads the pack as the chosen one, particularly by Louis Vuitton as he’s the face of the Spring Summer 2011 Men's Fashion advertising campaign, featuring the new Damier Graphite "MICK" bag and the Men's ready-to wear collection. Dolce and Gabbana, Ferragamo and Prada have used Asian men to showcase their collection over the years. And as Moran says, it’s a slow and steady growth. 

As brands aspire to break into the great white hope, China – and to a certain extent Japan - using a familiar and approachable model for the populace is key, which has already led to the usage of Asian actors doubling as models for gigs; like Daniel Wu (Garnier), Michael Wong (Sony) and Huang Xiao Ming (Gucci).

“You know what most Asian male models do?” Sean K reveals. “Go to the US, European fashion shows, get snapped or noticed enough and then come back to Asia – where they become ‘celebrities’. They can charge five times as much and work less for more pay!”

Indeed, LV’s leading man Godfrey has appeared in seven Taiwanese dramas, from "The Kid from Heaven" in 2006 to the most recent "Volleyball Lover,” his modeling gig being a part of his ever-increasing portfolio.

As Asian models go for casting calls with their look books, there’s always an agenda to do more than just model. “At the end of the day, it’s a job and its about making money,” says Sean K, who also styles for films. “Just doing catwalk won’t cut it, modeling then becomes the stepping stone to something else.”

Prestige, June 2019

My cover feature with Richard Ekkebus - out now. June 2019.

Pls read the entire feature which is now online here at Prestige's official site.

For Online exclusive, this Q&A is up too: 12 Questions with Chef Richard Ekkebus of Amber

Shot by Nic and Bex Gaunt for the first time for Burda. They were soooo much fun to work with.

The chat was great too - chefs with a sense of humour I can totally dig. Especially when the chef is exceptional like Ekkebus.

More in print - and at PrestigeOnline.com - so do check it out.