The Goods

Ah, my weekly column in Post magazine.




Hue grant

If you thought menswear this autumn-winter would come shrink-wrapped from a factory in dullsville, you couldn't be more wrong. The bright sparks at Marc by Marc Jacobs are going with the theory that the brighter the better. An ensemble worth a look is the striped lurex jumper in normandy blue (HK$2,590) worn with a canvas white shirt (HK$1,790), Tommy Suiting jacket in Normandy blue (HK$4,490) and matching trousers (all far right; HK$2,490). For something more retro, there's the preppy trousers (HK$2,490) matched with lurex jumper (both right; HK$2,790). Marc by Marc Jacobs is in The Landmark, Central, tel: 2868 9782.

Reptilian pursuits

Perk up your look this season with fun accessories from agnes b. For a quirky twist, check out the stainless-steel lizard cufflinks (right; HK$890) and tie clip (above; HK$790) from the Mutate series. Agnes b is in IFC Mall, tel: 2805 0678.

Gold rush

Italian brand Giuseppe Zanotti has taken the leap into unisex shoes. The brand's latest men's line might look familiar to those in the know: the silver and gold shoes were recently launched as part of the women's range. Add a bit of sparkle to your sole with the gold snake-skin shoe (above left; HK$7,050) or the shiny clasped boot (left; HK$8,850). Giuseppe Zanotti is in IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2805 0890.


Aug 28, 2011




A shoe in

Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro's highly coveted shoes were kicking up a storm even when he was at university. After releasing his first line in 1994, while attending Tama Art University, he became known for an innovative, modernist style. We love the casual coolness of the half-cut Oxford shoes (bottom; HK$8,500) and the Miharayasuhiro boot (left; HK$8,900), which oozes monochrome urban elegance. A pop-up Miharayasuhiro boot store is open until February at Joyce, New World Tower, Central, tel: 2810 1120.

Carry it off
The trouble with most "man bags" is that they rarely look masculine, despite the best of intentions. Let MCS Marlboro Classics help you man up for the season with a plaid shoulder bag (below; HK$2,690) or oversized bag (left; HK$3,690), mostly in dark shades and rough textures. MCS Marlboro Classics is at iSquare, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2971 3847.


Grey matters
Brooks Brothers is going back to school for autumn-winter, putting an original spin on classic looks with a markedly collegiate spirit. The collection is inspired by the label's own 1920s designs and we're loving the cotton Oxford shirt (HK$1,750), wool plaid tie (HK$1,280), cashmere Norfolk jacket (HK$14,980) and pebble wingtip boots (all far right; HK$6,580). When it comes to cocktail- hour attire, the heather turtleneck cardigan (HK$12,180) with wool flannel tab trousers (both right; HK$5,150) top our list. Brooks Brothers is in Prince's Building, Central, tel: 2523 3366.

Climate control
Hong Kong rarely gets cold enough for the winter wear of the western hemisphere, except on public transport, in cinemas and in most offices. To beat the odd chill, Hugo Boss offers easily wearable accessories such as a white virgin-wool scarf (top; HK$8,900), dark brown suede gloves (above; HK$3,500) and a brown rabbit-fur hat (right; HK$6,750). Hugo Boss is at Pacific Place, Admiralty, tel: 2918 1802.


Aug 21, 2011

By P.Ramakrishnan
ramakrishnanp@Hotmail.com

Behind the Scenes

An Open Secret

Carlotta Danti unveils sensual luxury for women with all the right curves, writes P.Ramakrishnan.


With the tacit approval of Kate Moss, Lucinda Chambers, Natalia Vodianova, Vanessa Paradis and other fashionable femmes, the Italian lingerie brand Rosamosario, with its signature rosette motif, answers the oft-asked question: what lies beneath?

Petticoats, culottes, bustiers, night robes, corsets, virginal white laces, bold shades of blood-red ribbons, coquettish contours covered in diaphanous damasks that just barely hold the girls in. Rosamosario isn't just haute, it's hot.

"I want to bring to the world the historical heritage of Italian craftsmanship, where hands move to develop the most unthinkable and desirable luxury," says founder Carlotta Danti.

Rosamosario is made in central Milan, where the doors to its boutique and workshop are open daily to customers, "So they can breathe the air of hand-making, like in the old times," Danti says. "Silks and cottons come from Italy, bought rough and hand washed. The lace that is key to our product range is imported from Calais in France, from the main couture houses."

Danti says she likes sensual women, and created Rosamosario for them. Years after Madonna famously brought underwear out, Rosamosario has honed the conical bra concept to a sophisticated sheen. When asked how it came about that her six-year-old brand has enraptured women around the world, she replies: "Being at the right place, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York where we kicked off back in 2005. Having the right product: elegant lingerie and 'lightwear', with just the right girls."

And what girls they are. Their official website can satiate any idoliser of models, with pixel after pixel of near-nude supermodels shot by photographers such as Bruce Weber, Juergen Teller, Paolo Roversi and Mario Testino.

"I remember the day of the shoot with Bruce Weber. He shot just before the sun rose, and then again when the sun went down," says Danti. "His best works are influenced by his great sensibility for natural light. He has this incredible connection with nature, so he shows nudity in a gentle, natural way. I think his pictures can be considered a page of history, and the portraits he made with Kate [Moss] and other supermodels, are an important page of my life."

Inside the company's brochure, there are layers of tulle curved as petals for a bouquet made of fabric. It's centred on a lacy panty worn by Moss. There's another striking image of her in a black lace ensemble next to a ballgown. There's a distinctly cheeky corset, and a topless Moss in a red lace rosette-patterned undergarment, wearing nothing more than patent red leather stilettos and a smile.

Yet amid the fragile beauty and flashes of flesh, there's a distinct lack of vulgarity. "The philosophy behind my lingerie and what I call a 'lightwear' collection of dresses was developed unconsciously from my family, my attention to beauty, female bodies and their movements," says Danti. "I think of the curves of my beautiful young mother, and I always remember her as an Italian Ursula Andress. I wanted to dress women with independent dreams, full of courage and with huge personalities."

In an industry that otherwise pays obeisance to reed-thin girls and teenage whims, Danti looks to real women with curves. Women like a particular Italian actress. "Monica Bellucci has never interpreted the passage of time, her ageing, as a case of abandoning her beauty," Danti says. "Instead, her strong seductive point is her maturing beauty. Italian women are famous for being beautiful as they mature. Women like Monica Bellucci, Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren."

Rosamosario's rose-print shoes will be worn by Bellucci in the film Manual Of Love 3, where she stars opposite Robert De Niro, and the screen siren has commissioned Rosamosario to make her lingerie outfits for her seductress role.

"What I like about Monica Bellucci is her interpretation of freedom. She understands that a woman can be sensual and seduce, rather than just being seduced." Danti tried to interpret Bellucci's curves for the shoes. "I created my first ever high-heeled sandals with printed chiffon and satin silks. Since then we have begun looking into shoes and have partnered with our Sicilian partners to create a new page in the history of Italian shoes."

On July 16, Rosamosario opened the doors of its new Hong Kong boutique - its first in Asia. As the brand steps into the East, Danti has been keeping a watchful eye on the region. "The powders, the colours, the flowers, petals and lightness of our materials conceived in our products embody the fragile beauty and purity of Asian women," she says.

If it's all too clear what lies beneath, the inevitable question is, what lies ahead? "We will be launching an exclusive, made-to-measure service for lingerie, for weddings and special occasions, which I will personally oversee," says Danti.

"Ladies will also be able to personalise and custom-make their look, head to toe, from their lingerie to their shoes. Rosamosario is a world, not just a product."

Rosamosario

UG/F, Manrich Court,
33 St Francis Street, Wan Chai

The Random View

Photography and Art Direction: Laurent S
Model: Jonny R

Produced by Rama













Wardrobe credits:


Pic 1
T-shirt by Lane Crawford

Pic 2
Fabric from Shanghai Tang, Boxer-briefs by Calvin Klein

Pic 3
Black and white striped Shirt by Lane Crawford, swimsuit by Dior Homme, socks by Moschino.


Pic 4
Swimsuit by Dior Homme, socks by Moschino.

Pic 5
Jeans by Calvin klein



See earlier post: The making of...

Hyde

Images of Hyde. Outtakes from a shoot done earlier there for Style magazine. Many thanks to the bril Thaise Schwabe from Hyde, who helped coordinate everything.

For a club to survive the grace period in Central, which is teeming with similar clubs, bars, restaurants that pop open with a bang, and fizzle just as quickly, Hyde's still doing great. It's got room to breath and a pool table, that helps bring folks in. Model nights don't hurt either. Check it out when in town.


HYDE
2-3/Fl Lyndhurst Tower 1,
Lyndhurst Terrace
Central Hong Kong

HYDE Telephone: +852 2522 2186