Behind the Label: Cherie D

Who started it? Born and bred in London, Sherina Dalamal trained at the city's Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and at L'Ecole Lesage, in Paris, France, where she studied couture embroidery. With internships at Alexander McQueen and Nicole Farhi, Dalamal's Indian aesthetics gained a deeper understanding of Western cuts and sensibilities. Her collections encompass myriad silhouettes, from baby-doll dresses to tapered shirts, and outfits enhanced by subtle embroidery and beadwork to add that hint of glitz and glamour. Having relocated to Mumbai two years ago, Dalamal is creating a niche on the subcontinent while wooing international markets from Britain to Hong Kong.

Why we love it: because she proves that a quintessentially Indian brand can create a Western-inspired outfit without making it look costumey. With the right stroke and imprint of arabesque touches and handcrafted embroidery, her glamorous ensembles are a fabulous mix of the exotic and the quixotic. Her latest collection is inspired by the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris, with a palette that runs he gamut from rosy pinks to black. Dalamal skills are put to good use on fabrics such as tulle, georgette, shimmery chiffon and broderie anglaise.

What we'd pick: for its silhouette and appliqués, the black chain-mail cocktail dress (far left; HK$3,000) and the black tulle kaftan with cord-work embroidery (left; HK$3,500).

Where can you get it? Cherie D is available at Fine n' Rhine, 2/F, V-Plus Building, 68 Wellington Street, Central, tel: 3118 7338.

Caption: Pictures by Sabrina Sikora
Byline: P. Ramakrishnan
March 4, 2012

3.1 Phillip Lim

Lim and her More than 400 points of sale in 55 countries later, a standalone 3.1 Phillip Lim boutique has opened its doors in Hong Kong at long last. The fashion label's 800 sq ft store in Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, has all the latest goodies from the much-loved New York designer.

Architects (and brothers) Dominic and Chris Leong of Leong Leong Architecture, a New York-based design studio, have designed a curved interior that deceptively elongates the small store. Here stands the sixth dedicated 3.1 Phillip Lim store worldwide, following those in New York, Tokyo, Los Angeles, Seoul and Singapore.

"Hong Kong is one of the fastest growing markets in the world," Lim says. "So it made sense for us to open our international store here. I'm excited to be able to connect with our customers here on a more personal level."

Multifunctional bags, womenswear and accessories (no menswear yet) line the racks and shelves. Between the walls of marble with champagne gold accents lie reversible, light and airy dual-toned tops (HK$3,990), purses, clutches, leather bags (HK$2,990 to HK$8,590) and dresses, such as the flashbulb print dress (HK$6,190). Don't be fooled by the apparently simple ensembles, as the magic of Lim's designs largely lies in the silhouette and movement of the clothes. Inspired by the aerodynamics of a kite, there's a light and breezy feel to the latest spring-summer collection.

3.1 Phillip Lim is in Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2113 0311.

March 4, 2012
Post magazine,
South China Morning Post
Byline: P. Ramakrishnan

Pleasure & Pain: Exclusive interview with shoe designer Sam Edelman

Shoe designer Sam Edelman knows what women want, and how much they're willing to suffer for it, writes P.Ramakrishnan.

Sam Edelman wears loafers - a far cry from the forbidding footwear he creates for women. "I personally wear classic shoes from brands like J.M. Weston and a few European designers. They're great, they're comfortable, they're timeless," he says. "But working with, and working for women is much more fun."

The American shoe designer was in Hong Kong recently to launch his Spring-Summer 2012 collection at Lane Crawford, where two exclusive styles - "Lizette" (below) and "Addy" - are about drawing the fine line between fetish and fashion.

"It's always been that way when you look at the history of fashion for women," says Edelman. "From corsets to foot binding, clogs to perilously high heels, women can put up with a lot of pain for the price of beauty. I think that's one of the surprising things I've seen over my 30 years in the business.

"To be beautiful, to have beautiful things, the perception of beauty, there will always be a great demand for it. It's recession proof."

It may be oft said, but the designer has seen for himself the cyclical nature of fashion. In the early '80s the Edelman flat ballet shoe was the iconic must-have, which helped launch the brand by capturing the zeitgeist of the moment. The stilettos, platforms, boots and wedges have come and gone, and the flat, in its latest, gilded avatar (in silver, gold, metallic shades with sparkling embellishments) is back again.

"It may be back, but of course it's different," says Edelman. "You can't pull out the old '70s shoe from the back of your closet and try to work it. Technology and quality has improved by leaps and bounds. Even in a classic shoe, there's innovation there."

As Edelman expands into the Asian market, he says it's clear to him that women, from any part of the globe, want the same things. "Whether it's a lady from New York or New Delhi, China or Chicago, they want to be in trend, they want to be noticed. So even if it's a cowboy-range style - which I think will be in for this coming year - it'll be the same. I don't change my designs or ship out any item to a market based on the people in that market. They're the same," he says. "A fashionable woman in New York to a fashionable woman in Shanghai, they get the same quality product. It goes without saying, but the fashion world's got smaller. Women are educated about what's in, so you can't fool them."

March 2, 2012
Style magazine

Behind the Label: Thomas Blakk

Who started it? Just launched in Hong Kong, Thomas Blakk, the man and his eponymous brand, are based in Florence, Italy. Having worked under the aegis of Pauric Sweeney, Manish Arora and other innovative designers, last year Blakk set up his own bag label, which he describes as "technical, punk, minimalist and futuristic". The look is hard-core and rebellious, yet refined, perhaps sharing similarities with a younger Rick Owens or Gareth Pugh. With a reference and reverence to pop culture, it comes as no surprise that Blakk has mentioned pop star and style icon Lady Gaga as a muse. His intricately constructed accessories, with their material mixes, feature strong lines and a hard rock'n'roll vibe.

Why we love it: because in the short time since his edgy range of accessories was launched, Blakk has become a serious name to watch in contemporary fashion. And because the products are marked with a finesse and polish expected from all things Italian. A leading fashion blogger described the bags as "not far short of gorgeous torture instruments". In an industry that is perpetually seeking something striking and innovative, Blakk provides ample eye candy. With bags and belts featuring serrated leather and metal, this collection is not for the shy and retiring.

What we'd pick: the multistudded leather clutch (above centre; HK$11,900) makes a point, as do the spiked silver and cobalt blue vanity cases (top; HK$4,130 each).

Where can you get it? Thomas Blakk is available at D-Mop, Times Square, Causeway Bay, tel: 2175 4881 and online at www.thomasblakk.com.


Byline: P. Ramakrishnan
ramakrishnanp @ hotmail. com
February 19, 2012

Behind the Label: Azzaro

Who started it? Loris Azzaro was born to Sicilian parents in Tunisia in 1933 and launched his brand in Paris, France, in 1962. The creator of fabulously draped gowns, Azzaro, who died in 2003, was known for dressing the grand dames of society such as Romy Schneider, Claudia Cardinale, Michele Morgan, Marisa Berenson and Dalida. Last year, Brazilian-born Mathilde Castello Branco took the reins as creative director.

Why we love it: in a world of transitory fads and ephemeral fame, Azzaro's timeless outfits have withstood the vagaries of what's in vogue. From the hand-beaded, sequinned cocktail dresses to the billowy reams of red-carpet gowns, Azzaro has been providing signature pieces for women of note for the past 50 years. It's the brand of choice for iconic women (think Sophia Loren, Raquel Welch and Tina Turner, whose stage clothes were mostly created by her good friend "Loris").

What we'd pick: for a return to minimalism, the straight-as- a-rake black dress (above right; HK$39,900) with twisted gold piping at the neck, or, to channel your inner diva, the mint green Greek Goddess gown (far right; HK$68,900; also available in white).

Where can you get it? Azzaro is available at Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, Central, tel: 3695 3388.

Byline: P. Ramakrishnan
(ramakrishnanp @ hotmail. com)
February 12, 2012

His Body of Evidence: Personal Trainer Douglas Pieterse Sweats it Out

The rule of thumb is simple: you cannot go to a dentist who has bad teeth, visit a doctor who has poor health habits, and you surely can’t be trained by someone who looks like they could use a sit-up or 20. The merits and perils of the job are such that personal trainer Douglas Pieterse, 30, co-owner of Sweat gym on Stanley Street in Central, has to maintain a fit and fabulous physique. Not much of a challenge for someone listed in a magazine as one of the eight best bodies in Hong Kong, right?

“I don’t really know what to say to that, but I was surprised when the magazine opened with my shot,” says Pieterse. “There was a rugby player who had eight-pack abs.”

As a Brazilian jiu-jitsu exponent, he’s never had to wrestle with weight or wage a battle of the bulge. “For the job, yes, I do think it is important to lead by example,” he says. “It’s important that I know what the clients are going to experience; I convey the exercise to them. Working out is not easy; it’s a commitment.”

With a wife, two sons under the age of two, a full-time job and an overbooked schedule, it’s amazing that Pieterse finds time to work out. “My day often starts at 5am and ends quite late. In the middle, I make time to work out, usually in
the late afternoons, the non-prime time hours, when most people are at work. I also ensure that I dedicate some time to my own workouts on weekends.”

Rama: I heard your wife, Joey Lee, a former champion kick-boxer, really kicked your diet into gear.Douglas Pieterse: She did. The prime changes were made post-marriage, as she’s very careful about what she eats. As a busy personal trainer, I ate really badly. I ate lots of junk and fast food, as time was a limitation. In between appointments, it was KFC, McDonald’s, cookies and sandwiches loaded with trans fats. I grabbed whatever I could find. It’s true I didn’t have six-pack abs before because, as much as I trained, you cannot out-train a bad diet.

What did you start eating?Lots of greens. Now my diet mainly consists of whole foods, vegetables and fruits. No surprise there. But it’s also making sure I make time to eat right. For breakfast, oats and flax seeds with bananas or apples. Afternoons are hard, and I have to confess, even now I basically eat what I can get my hands on. Evenings tend to start with vegetables, broccoli, cauliflower and vegetable soup. Soups give that false sense of filling you up so you don’t overeat. I have a small piece of meat for protein, followed by more fruits to end the meal.

There are some people who seem to be at the gym all the time and yet see minor results. What are people getting wrong?If you are not constantly challenging your body, you will see no results. The body loves being challenged so it can adapt, so make sure you step out of your comfort zone to get the best results from your training.

What’s a good machine to use to get biceps?I don’t like using machines to work on isolated muscles. If you want bigger biceps, I suggest you start working on your pull-ups or chin-ups. This will allow you to work other muscle groups, too, and give you a better workout. The rope that we have hanging off the ceiling may look like it’s mainly for the arms, but it’s also for a full upper body exercise. Muscles don’t work in isolation.

Hong Kong seems to be teeming with gyms and new fads of training. What’s Sweat’s appeal?It’s a relatively small enterprise with two full-time and two part-time trainers, and we put together individual programmes for all our clients. With high intensity workouts, it’s a goal-oriented programme. Lots of the generic gyms follow some kind of strict programme. We go by what our clients need and like; we read each client and adapt our training to them. You know why most people leave gyms? Boredom. No one wants to do the same thing again and again, and they don’t want to be clumped together with a bunch of others who have different body types and needs.

But isn’t gym work repetitive by it’s very nature?You have to change the patterns. We do circuit training, which is fun
as it’s different each time. We use machines like the Airdyne bike and PowerMax bodyweight training tool. When we first introduce them to clients, they are amazed. They’re very simple pieces of equipment, but fun.

You work with a lot of youngsters. How do you encourage them to try to be healthy?I have found the best ways to encourage youngsters is to lead by example, make the sport a game so they enjoy it, and set attainable goals which give them a sense of success.

Can your wife kick your butt?Most likely – I haven’t taken the time to find out.

UPDATE: Douglas  now at http://www.r3personaltraining.com/

By P.Ramakrishnan
(ramakrishnanp @ hotmail. com)

Published in South China Morning Post
Health Post
Fit and Fab Column

See earlier feature: 24 hrs: Joey Lee

See earlier feature: Kick the Girls and Make them Cry

Pakistani singing star Khan excited to be making his HK debut

It’s shaping up to be a great year for music lovers with yet another international artist coming to town. Rahat Fateh Ali Khan, 37, one of Pakistan’s best-known singers, will perform with his troupe at the Convention and Exhibition Centre next Friday. [Mar 9].

“I’m very excited to sing in Hong Kong for the first time ever,” Khan said. “It’s always a pleasure to sing to a new audience. Music is the only thing that unites us, brings us together. It’s in our blood; it’s in our soul. When I see an international audience hear our music, when they don’t understand a word, then you know there’s more to it than meets the ear.”

Nephew of the legendary singer Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, who lent his voice to the Oscar-winning film Dead Man Walking, the young Khan comes from a house filled with music. Sine Khan had no son of his own, Rahat was deemed heir-apparent to the legendary household, continuing a legacy of singers than spans back 600 years. On YouTube, there is a 12-year-old Nusrat singing a love song at a concert with his famed uncle.

“If you teach a child to sing Twinkle, twinkle little star, do they really understand what they’re saying?” he said with a laugh. “It was just the same with me. I sang a love song, comparing a beautiful woman to a rose. The words were given, the tune was given, and I sang it. I didn’t know what I was singing about until years later.”

Tickets are priced from HK$300 to HK$2,000 and available through HK Ticketing

P. Ramakrishnan
(ramakrishnanp @ hotmail. com)