Few artists have coaxed such poetry from the unyielding resistance of stone, titanium and porcelain as Chan. Born in Fuzhou in 1956 and apprenticed at 16 in the backstreets of Hong Kong’s jewellery quarter, the self-taught master has spent more than five decades transforming an ancient craft into a distinctly contemporary art form.
Today he is recognised as one of Asia’s most important jewellery artists and sculptors. The first Chinese contemporary jewellery artist to enter the British Museum’s permanent collection, Chan is celebrated for technical breakthroughs that include the Wallace Cut — his 1987 illusionary multi-dimensional carving technique — pioneering uses of titanium in wearable art, and his own Wallace Chan Porcelain, a material five times stronger than steel yet capable of ethereal translucency.
His works reside in the Shanghai Museum, the V&A, and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. When Christie’s London presented The Wheel of Time in 2023, the largest exhibition of his oeuvre in Europe to date, it drew visitors of all ages and backgrounds to pieces that feel less like ornaments and more like captured moments of philosophical inquiry.
With his long beard and quiet intensity, Chan speaks softly but thinks in epochs. In conversation, he reveals an artist unbound by category, trend or even the traditional expectations of jewellery itself.
How would you describe your jewellery aesthetic? Does it fall more under the category of art and sculpture than accessory?“I strive to create artworks that will outlive me. When it comes to art creation, jewellery is a form of expression. I embrace all art forms and choose not to be confined to any formats. I feel that true artistic freedom means transcending boundaries, even the boundaries of art forms.”
Is there a muse, man or woman, behind the design and who you make the jewellery for?“I create for history.”
What has the experience of the exhibition in London been like? Do you see a difference in how Westerners approach your work and how an Asian audience or buyer might?“I create my works in a way that they are universal, and they communicate to people regardless of their backgrounds. At my exhibition, there were children as young as the age of 3, and there were people in their 80s. It brings me joy to know that my works delight others. We made the exhibition free entry, open to all because we believe that everyone should have an opportunity to enjoy the pieces. I have collectors from different countries in Asia and the West and I am very grateful that they generously loaned their pieces to make this exhibition possible.”
The state of jewellery in 2023; how would you describe it? In your experience, over the years, how has jewellery changed? What was it before – what is it now?“Change is the only constant in life, it is also an essential element in my creative process. To create is to embrace change. Change doesn't happen year by year, but minute by minute.”
Do you see a trend in high-end jewellery that you like.. or that you dislike?“I do not keep up with trends. Trends come and go – they move too fast.”
There are a lot of imitators who’ve been inspired by your work and try to replicate it in their own way. What are your thoughts on it?“It is perhaps a part of the learning process to imitate what has been done before. But life is too short to live in the shadow of the past. At some point one must create one's own future. Every piece of mine is unique because I find it meaningless to replicate myself. Every creation should be a new challenge.”
What advice do you have (to our readers) about jewellery? Should they see it as investment? Something beautiful to own? A keepsake? A treasure?“Collect only what you love, always.”
Over the past twenty years, I have featured several Asian jewellery designers who have a signature style, unique motif and sources of inspiration that often route predictable sources, nature, the oceans, flora and fauna.
Wallace Chan has an ethos, a philosophy, in his hands, a jewel is never merely a dear, decorative, dazzling designer artifact guised as an accessory. It becomes a vessel for ideas that outlast fashion, markets and even the artist himself — quiet proof that the most radical act in contemporary jewellery may simply be the pursuit of enduring meaning. For years we've written about quiet luxury, now we are shifting focus to quiet legacy.
His works reside in the Shanghai Museum, the V&A, and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. When Christie’s London presented The Wheel of Time in 2023, the largest exhibition of his oeuvre in Europe to date, it drew visitors of all ages and backgrounds to pieces that feel less like ornaments and more like captured moments of philosophical inquiry.
With his long beard and quiet intensity, Chan speaks softly but thinks in epochs. In conversation, he reveals an artist unbound by category, trend or even the traditional expectations of jewellery itself.
How would you describe your jewellery aesthetic? Does it fall more under the category of art and sculpture than accessory?“I strive to create artworks that will outlive me. When it comes to art creation, jewellery is a form of expression. I embrace all art forms and choose not to be confined to any formats. I feel that true artistic freedom means transcending boundaries, even the boundaries of art forms.”
Is there a muse, man or woman, behind the design and who you make the jewellery for?“I create for history.”
What has the experience of the exhibition in London been like? Do you see a difference in how Westerners approach your work and how an Asian audience or buyer might?“I create my works in a way that they are universal, and they communicate to people regardless of their backgrounds. At my exhibition, there were children as young as the age of 3, and there were people in their 80s. It brings me joy to know that my works delight others. We made the exhibition free entry, open to all because we believe that everyone should have an opportunity to enjoy the pieces. I have collectors from different countries in Asia and the West and I am very grateful that they generously loaned their pieces to make this exhibition possible.”
The state of jewellery in 2023; how would you describe it? In your experience, over the years, how has jewellery changed? What was it before – what is it now?“Change is the only constant in life, it is also an essential element in my creative process. To create is to embrace change. Change doesn't happen year by year, but minute by minute.”
Do you see a trend in high-end jewellery that you like.. or that you dislike?“I do not keep up with trends. Trends come and go – they move too fast.”
There are a lot of imitators who’ve been inspired by your work and try to replicate it in their own way. What are your thoughts on it?“It is perhaps a part of the learning process to imitate what has been done before. But life is too short to live in the shadow of the past. At some point one must create one's own future. Every piece of mine is unique because I find it meaningless to replicate myself. Every creation should be a new challenge.”
What advice do you have (to our readers) about jewellery? Should they see it as investment? Something beautiful to own? A keepsake? A treasure?“Collect only what you love, always.”
Over the past twenty years, I have featured several Asian jewellery designers who have a signature style, unique motif and sources of inspiration that often route predictable sources, nature, the oceans, flora and fauna.
Wallace Chan has an ethos, a philosophy, in his hands, a jewel is never merely a dear, decorative, dazzling designer artifact guised as an accessory. It becomes a vessel for ideas that outlast fashion, markets and even the artist himself — quiet proof that the most radical act in contemporary jewellery may simply be the pursuit of enduring meaning. For years we've written about quiet luxury, now we are shifting focus to quiet legacy.
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