President and CEO of Chaumet, Paris
As the head of the prestigious French brand, Chaumet, Thierry Fritsch hops around the globe ensuring the pristine image and standards of the company are strictly maintained. He speaks to P.Ramakrishnan on the eve of the opening of the brand's signature store in Central, Hong Kong.
The House of Chaumet can be traced back centuries, not decades, as the company provided jewellery to Marie Antoinette and Napoleon Bonaparte. So how is this Parisian brand still relevant and not an archaic relic from history? By staying ahead of the curve, knowing where fashion is heading, and constantly upgrading its image and its products, while remaining true to the company's philosophy and rich tradition.
Even the most cynical of media watchers have been impressed by the Chaumet advertising campaign - the mirror-like shot of the modern girl staring at herself in vintage form, a reflection of Chaumet's link between past and present. How did the concept come about?
Thierry Fritsch: From the beginning, I wanted to use a British photographer because only a British photographer would immediately understand how we could play with the concept of royalty, without trying to make the model look like the Queen of England. We selected Richard Burbridge, an Englishman who works in New York. I had lunch with him and tried to explain the idea. Then he said, "I've got it, you want an element of fantasy somewhere, not reality. I have the picture in mind."
This is the magic of an artist, because you have a wish and then you see the artist transform it into reality. He also suggested that the perfect model would be Stella Tennant because she's British, she's an aristocrat, she knows how to wear a tiara, and because she's a modern woman. I said to him that I didn't know her and that she would probably be very expensive but he said that she was a friend and he would call her. Then he called Stella and told her that she had no choice! There was one shoot in New York with just Richard, Stella and the tiara and they did it! It was magic.
The entire campaign came into being in one session?
Thierry Fritsch: Yes. During the shoot, Stella was supposed to wear the tiara and make it stand up like a crown, but she said that was old-fashioned and boring. "I'm going to put it on like a bandana," she said, and the result was outstanding. She dared to do it because she is an aristocrat and was not in awe of a tiara. She did it in a natural way, with a true understanding of what Chaumet is. It's a natural story.
While running the company, you've also been involved in every aspect of bringing Chaumet to life. How do you see your role?
Thierry Fritsch: My job is just to select the right people. It is just like casting. If you select the right photographer, the right model, the right architect, the right designer, the right craftsman, then they will work their magic. You know, apart from Stella or Richard or someone like the great architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte (who designed our stores), they have to understand what Chaumet is, its history and its significance in both the past and present. When you understand the roots, then you can go very far.
Apart from royal families, who's buying your signature piece, the tiara?
Thierry Fritsch: Well, we don't sell only tiaras - the market of tiaras is somewhat limited in the world! We also have an extensive range of watches and fine jewellery. You may be surprised to know that we still do actually sell tiaras and crowns, particularly to royal families in the Gulf. Wait, see this? (Fritsch finds a sketch of a turban, lavishly embellished with pearls and emeralds). This was done for the Maharaja of Indore. It's the original drawing. We make some of the grand pieces by creating drawings first, and we still do special orders like this. All kinds of people are welcome at Chaumet.
What other Asian hot-spots are there for Chaumet?
Thierry Fritsch: People understand Chaumet all around the world - anyone who knows haute couture, and old cultures. For example, its very easy for us to explain Chaumet to Japanese people and I'm not afraid of the Chinese market or the Italian market because if you have had a culture for centuries, then you'll understand Chaumet. We've been in Japan for a while, and now it's the number one market in the world for us.
Why Japan? Why not a European country with ever-present royalty?Thierry Fritsch: Japan is a massive luxury goods market. The Japanese fall between Imperial tradition and strong modernity, and they fully understand the value of luxury goods. Last year I went to Japan six times, and this year seven, to break my record.
Published in The Peninsula magazine, Volume3, Issue 4
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