Tuesday, 29 September 2009
Take Five: David Yurman
Possibly one of the most famous jewelers in the world, David Yurman’s eponymous label is an American classic that’s recognised the world over. Molded into perfection since 1980, it wasn’t just a fusion of precious metal and stone but of two artists; namely David and his wife Sybil. Between the sculptor and the painter, the combination of their unique, aesthetic vision is magic, as each of their bejeweled pieces are collected and adorned by the crème de la crème the world over. As 250 new designs hit over 400 select retail locations each year, P.Ramakrishnan caught up with him soon after his flagship store opened in Hong Kong, at the IFC mall.
Q: How was the opening of the signature store of your namesake brand in Hong Kong?
A: Wonderful. Just wonderful. So many people came to support the opening and there were so many beautiful people about, all enthusiastic and knowledgeable of fine jewellery. I really like a mix of people. Variety is key. I don’t like the same kind of people all in one room, that’s so boring! We had a beautiful model from China as the star attraction, but really, I found all the people who attended beautiful too, just lovely.
Q: Are there plans to expand into China?
A: Yes. Maybe not immediately but China is definitely on the horizon. We’re certainly looking into it and are curious. It’s good to be curious in this business!
Q: Places like Thailand, which is very keen on gold or cultures like in India, where jewellery is part of every-day life, will we see David Yurman stores popping up all around Asia?
A: All of Asia is interesting to me but, to look at it that specifically, well, I don’t really work that way. For example, I’ve wanted to open in India for a while. I have great friends and people I work with there. I met this very interesting guy who works with jewellery and I invited him to one of my events. He wasn’t famous, he wasn’t a celebrity, but he was this interesting character who was my guest. I invite people I want to invite and it’s not necessarily a PR exercise.
Q: Despite all the controversy and tabloid that follows her around, Kate Moss has been your advertising muse for a long time…
A: Well, she’s a good friend and a lovely girl!
Q: How was the big Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala in New York? Julia Roberts and George Clooney as hosts, the A-list from the film, music and fashion industry in attendance. There were more celebrities than the Oscars.
A: It was fine event. We sponsored a table for the event and of course I’ve known Anna [Wintour, editor of Vogue] for a long, long time. In fact, I knew her when… don’t you dare print what I’m about to say!
I won’t!
Images: Courtesy of David Yurman
Friday, 25 September 2009
My life: Priyanka Chopra: Bollywood Icon Interview in Hong Kong
From beauty queen to Bollywood royalty, the actress is enjoying fame across the continent. P.Ramakrishnan spent the day with Indian actress Priyanka Chopra and she tells him how she and her friends have coped with her meteoric rise.
A DIFFERENT PATH I never thought I'd be an actress. My parents are doctors and I was academically inclined - I was an engineering student. I always knew I didn't want to be a doctor; I can't stand the sight of blood. Seeing my parents at work, knowing that they held life in their hands, I couldn't bear that responsibility. It's like being second to God, the expectations the patient's family has of the doctor.
But I was into music, a bit of acting on stage - I did many musicals, not only in India but when I studied in the US. I was in the choir, a soprano, I toured across the States singing in my high-school choir [in the 1990s] and had a mix of Indian and international friends - most of whom I'm still in touch with.
FRIENDS WILL BE FRIENDS They get a huge kick out of my fame and when I go visit them, when they see the Indian community react to me, it amuses them endlessly. My friends work on Wall Street, have businesses and I go off to the film industry. They send me lovely, funny, strange messages, reviews, opinions. It's all bizarre to them - especially when they Google me and hundreds of images pop up.
The joy of Indian musicals transcends language and culture barriers and I've seen how western, non-Indian fans turn up at Indian shows and movies. It's very sweet and encouraging. Song and dance - we all need a little of that, don't we?
ON TOP OF THE WORLD When I was 16 or 17, my younger brother [by eight years] and mother conspired and sent in this horrible shot of me to the Miss India pageant. I was accepted. They convinced me to go and I did. I won. Weeks later I was flown off to the Miss World pageant and I won that as well. It was 2000. I was told by the press that I was very sure and poised but, honestly, I was a duck. A complete duck - paddling away furiously underneath but calm and composed above water. No one knew how nervous I was, how I blanked when they would ask me questions and when I won, even I couldn't believe it. At 17, I was the youngest Miss World. I guess that's when I realised I could be an actress. I faked being calm and was on autopilot.
After my year's tenure as Miss World - which literally means travelling the world, promoting the charity and cause 'Beauty with a Purpose' - I kept getting great offers from respected filmmakers in India. Being the fifth Miss World from India over a period of seven years, it was sort of expected, I guess.
JOB SATISFACTION I did a Tamil and Hindi film for a lark; just to see what would happen. I loved every moment of film-making.
The myth of the Indian film industry being a chaotic, script-less mess is rubbish. It is more organised than ever before and I work with production houses that will see a film is not only well made but well marketed and projected, too.
I am one of the few people who is lucky to have found a job I love. When you find your vocation, your purpose, every day is a great day. I work seven days a week, I haven't had a holiday for the past five years and I don't have a single complaint. My friends do. I never meet up on time, shoots never end on time and I send apologetic messages. Luckily, my family is understanding but my friends get rejected, I feel bad too but when a shoot doesn't end on time, I can't just pack up.
AND... ACTION Initially, when I started, I'd get very [self]-conscious in front of the camera - especially when complete strangers would appear en masse on a film set. The greatest victory of an actor is to commit to the moment and forget that people are watching you. You think of it as a real situation, not a film set, what you say and do will be on camera, seen by a billion people [with the expanse of the Indian film industry, that's no exaggeration].
I found inner strength in time. Everything I know, I learned on the set. Nothing scares me anymore. If a director says, 'You'll dance like a maniac on the streets of New York, cry in the rain wearing a sari next to a Jaipur palace' - I'll just do it. If I made mistakes, I learned from them. How to present myself, my dialogue delivery, my costumes, how to appear on the red carpet - who teaches that? You live and learn. When the press writes unkind things, I laugh it off. Initially it hurt but now, who cares?
FUN IN THE SUN I generally wake up around 6am and head off to work. When you get stuck in Mumbai traffic on your way to the studio, you can get a lot done.
One of the many perks of my job is I get to travel. For my last film, Dostana, we had a 60-day outdoor shoot in Miami and I stayed in a rented flat. I have so many friends and family in the US that my place became the party house. The movie's success means so much more as we had so much fun making it. I prefer outdoor shoots. In Mumbai, I have to multitask; interviews, photo shoots, dubbing, rehearsals, outfit fittings, premieres, family, friends, all need your attention. On an outdoor [shoot], you have to make the movie within a time frame and budget - its complete concentration and you're cut off from the rest of the world.
DOWN TO EXPERIENCE I stand by even my worst movies. We all do movies with the conviction that its going to be good and when it fails, I cry. All that effort and love and dedication you put into a role, it kills when it's rejected. When it works, it's fantastic.
Published in Post magazine, Hong Kong.
Labels:
Bollywood,
My Life,
POST Magazine,
Priyanka Chopra,
SCMP
Bollywood bounces back: Indian stars are back on the horizon: Hong Kong grooves
Reeling from the Mumbai attacks, India's celebrities are throwing themselves into their work. On Christmas Day the country's top talent comes to Hong Kong, writes P.Ramakrishnan.
As a string of top Indian celebrities prepare to land in Hong Kong on Christmas Day in the aftermath of what the press has labelled India's 9/11, the mood is sombre.
'I'm hugely pessimistic about the government, the politicians and what's going to happen after the shooting and blasts in Mumbai,' says Bollywood star and model Bipasha Basu.
'After a few days, we all went back to work, but we don't feel safe. I have a younger sister who goes to university in Mumbai and she takes the local trains. I told her to stop. She turned around and asked me, 'Are you not going to a film set?' It felt like a slap on my face. Life goes on.'
Many Indian celebrities took to the streets for a peace march as the death toll climbed. Over the ensuing days, film and television shoots went ahead as normal in Mumbai, the heart of the vast Indian entertainment industry. The biggest movies of the year continue to be released as scheduled and the actors continue to do shows around the world, such as the event titled 'Chandni Chowk to Hong Kong', which is being held at the Convention and Exhibition Centre next Thursday.
Led by Indian actor Akshay Kumar and a bevy of Bollywood beauties including Basu, Priyanka Chopra (a former Miss World), Amisha Patel, Riya Sen, Aarti Chhabria, plus musicians Himesh Reshammiya, Bohemia and host Sajid Khan, the event is bringing a sizeable chunk of Mumbai's glamour quotient to Hong Kong.
'The attacks were shocking, devastating, but we are a resilient people. Film production and rehearsals continued soon after,' says Patel. 'Our way of life does not change. I know it's a cliche to say that if we change, the terrorists would have won, but what are the options? To cower and hide and be fearful? No, we got back to work.
'We work really hard, so we enjoy our time off too. I'm working on new dance routines, new remixes, new styles - I know there's a sizeable, successful Sindhi community in Hong Kong and I hope they all turn up to support us,' says Patel.
Chopra, who arrives after appearing in eight films this year - says getting back to work is key.
'Of course we were heartbroken but we got up and back to work. While there are many shows over the next few weeks and months, Hong Kong is my only show,' says Chopra. 'I'm working on new routines, music, my wardrobe is being worked on. We want to bring something fresh and new and its unlike any other show any of us have ever done.'
The cast has high praise for Kumar, who will be the frontman of the Christmas Day musical show.
'I did my first film with him and all the movies we've worked together on have done really well,' says Chopra. 'I have to state, the amount of energy and effort he puts in is incredible. He works really hard and puts on the best for his shows.'
Basu, who also did her first film with Kumar, agrees. 'Akshay works hard - period. The amount of energy he has, the amount of effort he puts into his shows, his movies ... if only I had a third of that energy.'
Voted the sexiest Asian woman alive by FHM India, Basu was a model before she hit the Hindi film industry. 'When I started, I prayed no one from my family or friends would see my movie because I found it so funny to be dancing around, after all the poise and posture of my modelling background. But I have to say I love it now. I love dancing, I love great music and I have a great time working in the industry.'
Basu has also danced to some of India's most successful chartbusters over the course of her career. 'When a song is first played to me, if I can remember the tune and some of the lyrics within the first play, I just know its going to be a huge hit. I've been very lucky recently,' she says.
As a tragic year comes to a close in India's entertainment capital, the cast feel as though they can still help end it on a high note. Patel says: 'Honestly, we really want to get back to work, life will continue as is. What better way to spend Christmas than with music and dance and lights and a little cheer? I feel we all need that, especially now.'
Chandni Chowk to Hong Kong, Dec 25, 7.30pm, Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, HK$280-HK$4,800, HK Ticketing, Tom Lee. Inquiries: 2366 7725
Thursday December 18 2008
Tuesday, 22 September 2009
Asia Spa Men's shoot
Apart from writing, I've been involved with producing shoots for various publications over the years. Will be putting up a series of those eventually (with the permission of photographers and publishers of course).
Papers you read, for magazines, you need great visuals and I've been very lucky in having had the opportunity to work with some of the best photographers in the world (some of whom are listed and linked on the right - scroll down!).
After a very bad experience that's scarred me for life, my new rule is to ONLY work with people I like. Thus, producing this shoot was great fun, mostly because I worked with a great team that's easily the best in the biz; namely Ike, Karen and David.
On the day of the shoot, between the scorching heat, the bugs and the pungent aroma of festering trash, I wasn't having a good day. But I faked bravado and false cheer, as the entire team was nonchalant and worked non-stop, without complaining and whinging. So I held in the inner gripe, even though into hour two, I was ready to hop onto a boat heading home. I'm not one for nature; burn it down and put up a cinema I say!
Anyhoo...
Many, many thanks to the perfectly delicious Mz Rebecca Walker, editor-in-chief of Asia Spa, for getting this shoot published. Apart from being a gem of a person, gorgeous beyond belief, I'm forever humbled by her professionalism and getting the job done. She's also living and loving embodiment that you can head a magazine, be a pro and NOT be a raving lunatic! More on that laters (SCMP feature on crazy bosses!).
Huge debt of gratitude for the fashion brands involved here too. Um.. too many to list - but dutifully credited in images and in print.
The Blue Lagoon
Perhaps a reflection of the economic times but men’s fashion has got a hint of the blues. Various shades of the moody hues have crept into designer labels and the designer conscience as the colour made guest appearances in every collection this (and past!) season. Photographer Ike found a slice of paradise in one of the hundreds of islets that constitute Hong Kong and did this fine shoot, far from the madding crowd. Cool, calm and collected, we focus on the serene aspects of the azure template and sapphire shades.
Producer: P Ramakrishnan
Photography: Ike
Assistant: Cal
Hair & Makeup: Karen Yiu
Model: David O from Models International Ltd
Credits:
1. Striped shirt from Versace, striped shorts from Vintage at Lane Crawford, Emporio Armani white briefs (available at Rouge Amour), blue suede shoes from Cole Haan, shades from Shanghai Tang and watch from Ernst Benz.
2. T-shirt by John Galliano, blue boxer-briefs by Dolce & Gabbana (both available at Rouge Amour), embroidered sarong from Fine’n’Rhine and watch from Ernst Benz.
3. Indigo check trousers from Lane Crawford, printed briefs by John Galliano (available at Rouge Amour), J.M. Weston black leather sandals, large leather bag from the Boss Orange collection by Hugo Boss, model carrying a blue and brown zipped cardigan by Hermes, shades from Shanghai Tang and watch from Ernst Benz.
4. Hooded sweatshirt in grey/blue perforated suede lambskin and printed blue swimming trunks by Hermes, diamond and gold pendant by Stenzhorn at Masterpiece by king fook, J.M. Weston black leather sandals and watch from Ernst Benz.
5. Blue angel print jeans by KSubi from Lane Crawford, leather sandals by Salvatore Ferragamo, diamond and gold pendant by Stenzhorn at Masterpiece by king fook, shades by Shanghai Tang and watch from Ernst Benz.
6. White linen shirt, baby blue pashmina by Fine’n’Rhine, white linen pants from Daks London, leather sandals by Salvatore Ferragamo and watch from Ernst Benz.
7. Blue jeans by Blaak from Harvey Nichols, blue linen scarf by Loro Piana, brown leather bag by Salvatore Ferragamo, shades model’s own, shoes by Cole Haan and watch from Ernst Benz.
BEHIND THE SCENES
These are some of my blurry caps of the making of a shoot. Keeping track of outfits and accessories, always a potential for a mini-feature in case I need a filler for the magazine, at every shoot, I take my own amateur snaps - which are often subject to ridicule and risible conversation. Thank God I stick to writing.
I don't usually put up all the pics but some time ago, a photographer friend of mine mentioned that despite having put up 1000s of images and hundreds of entries, the most popular page was always the one with the hot model.
Which got me thinking - what's the most popular page in my blog? Now, the main reason I started this was for selfish reasons, keeping track of my own published work, a little ego massage from friends. So many, many words, so much thought and effort, copious blood, sweat and tears... ok, scratch that. Typing in an air-conditioned room, its mostly just tears when hitting deadline, very little of the blood and sweat.
Insult to injury, no one cares about them damn words either. Its the pages with the shirtless shots of supermodel David Oshry that always grab the most hits. Sad. But true.
What the public wants, the public gets! David O, in all his pectoral glory. He's also the nicest guy in the horizon, a kind and wonderful friend who works with great sincerity, enthusiasm and effort, but again, no one cares. Shirt off David, shirt off.
David Oshry - click to enlarge |
Labels:
Asia Spa Men,
David Oshry,
Fashion shoot,
Ike,
karen yiu
Saturday, 12 September 2009
Great (S)Expectations: No Sex in the City: The new mantra for the age?: AsiaSpa Feature
It’s often been said that the greatest sexual organ in men isn’t between their legs but between their ears. P.Ramakrishnan explores the premise, while in conversation with a leading sex therapist and, well, men at large.
It is a line from the show Sex and the City; how you are in bed is a reflection of how you are in life. Said with the nonchalance and lipstick coated disdain for, well, lets call them ‘under performers’, the leading character Samantha Jones’ comment can be brushed aside as a mere, glib punch-line. However, as the economic depression hits the financial market like a kick below the belt, maybe there’s something more to be said about the aforementioned one-liner.
As the stock market plummets, is it difficult to get a rise in interest out of the male populace in other areas too? In conversation with an investment banker who’s company has made headlines in the paper for all the wrong reasons, the bar stool conversation was pretty clear. “Nope. Not getting any,” says Adrian (surname withheld). “Not giving any. As for work, everyone’s waiting for the hatchet to fall. Its just a matter of when. You know it’s portentous when suddenly you’re asked to use up all your annual leave immediately. The end is near.”
Soon after, in conversation with Dr Francois Fong (MBBS, BMedSc and a series of alphabets empowering his name card), at the Hong Kong Sexual Health Centre in Central, at Neo-Health Care, a volley of questions regarding sex, ego, mental health, physical stamina, financial crisis all comes into play.
It sure seems that every banker, industrialist, power broker is a card-carrying member of an over priced gym, so let’s assume there’s a certain strata of society that’s as physically well as can be. But with daily reports in the news on rising unemployment, falling stocks,
domino effects of the western economic tumble (with the benign promise of quotations that state ‘worse is yet to come’, no pun intended) surely the suits are feeling the pressure.
If you’re not mentally at peace, how engaged are you in the bedroom?
How’s the
self esteem and ego being balanced when your job might be in the balance? Enlisted
with more questions than time, we did our Q&A before being... well, prematurely interrupted
by awaiting patients.
Q: According to the latest news,
unemployment is rising. Looking at the
classic role of the man as a provider as well
as nurturer, is this affecting people’s sex
lives in Asia?
A: When a high-powered professional
loses their job, their self confidence takes a
hit. For many it’s a huge shock to the system
which ends up affecting other areas of their
life – including their sex life.
Q: Isn’t it the man’s ego that takes a
battering? You’re no longer the one who
brings in the big bucks, can’t pick up the
tab at a club, can’t hit on the babes with as
much elated confidence.
A: Ego is part of it for sure. Men (and
women) in powerful positions are more
likely to fall into this spiral. If someone has
enjoyed success in a demanding job in where
they are the main decision maker, and you
take that job and control away from them,
they lose their identity. They are no longer in
the drivers seat which can lead to stress and
depression. Their own ability hasn’t changed,
their self value hasn’t really changed, but their
environment has.
Similarly, men in their 40s often question
how much further they can push their careers
and find themselves wondering if time and
opportunity has passed them by. This leads
them to the big question: what do I really want
in life? If it’s a time for a change of direction,
this can affect their sex lives.
Q: The biggest sex organ in the body is not
between one’s legs, but between one’s ears
i.e. the mind. True or false?
A: This statement is very true, the most
important sexual organ is the brain. When
men spend a lot of time working under
pressure, their sex drive will decrease. If
you are plagued with thoughts about the
office, there is no doubt your performance
in bed will be affected. Sex drive is linked
to the mind so if you’re stressed, the sex
drive is reduced. No amount of external
stimuli can change that.
Q: In these turbulent economic times, where
unemployment, salary and promotion cuts
and freezes, and a perpetual fear of company
bankruptcy, is sex is generally dwindling?
A: Many studies have assessed the
relationship between health, a person’s
financial situation, stress, relationship
issues, and self esteem’s relationship with
sexual satisfaction. There is undoubtedly a
strong correlation between mental wellness
and a person’s sex life.
According to a recent Durex sex survey,
Hong Kong, Japan and Korea have the lowest
sexual frequency in the world. Partly because
of people working and travelling a lot, so
there’s not enough time for sex and when
there is they are too tired to perform. This
leads to reduced intimacy among partners
which eventually results in a decreased desire
to have sex.
Q: So according to this survey we can
assume that the plummeting graphs of the
finance industry are keeping other things
down as well?
A: In a way yes. According to the study,
men are far happier, and subsequently have
better sex, when they are financially comfortable.
Generally speaking, balanced wellness
– both physically and mentally – is very
important for a healthy sex life.
Q: Going away on holiday or retreats and
islands and so on, is there undue pressure
to have sex.
A: Spas and resorts were created so that
people can relax and more people should
do just that. There shouldn’t be pressure to
have sex ten times a day just because you’re
on holiday. Although sex and relaxation go
hand-in-hand for some people, others would
find too much sex stressful. My advice is
to follow your bodies and natural feelings.
Simply let things be. Remember sex is fun! Not a chore
Suggestive Suggestions
- Spare time for yourself everyday, be it five or 10 minutes, just to forget about everything else. Prioritise your valuable leisure time by delegating, refusing inessential commitments and streamlining. Focus on being more productive while you’re at work and leaving the office at a reasonable time, to free up time for relaxing. Plus, no one wins if you burn out.
- Develop a healthy fitness regime. Taking up an enjoyable form of exercise will pay back in endorphins and energy, perfect for perking up your libido. Devote some time to relaxation techniques like yoga and meditation if you find they help.
- Communicate with your partner. Bringing problems out into the open often helps find a solution, and can dispel tensions surrounding any misunderstandings. Keep your sense of humour, as finding the funny side of a problem that is normally taboo, or too serious to find amusing, often helps it melt away.
- Don’t hit the bottle! Avoid excessive alcohol and drugs. Instead focus on eating – not overeating – as healthily as possible. Vegetables, legumes and proteins buoy your energy levels, leaving you feeling lighter mentally as well as physically. Feeling good about yourself, in particular your body, is a major step towards becoming interested in sex again.
- Make sure you’re getting enough sleep. Adopt a habit of mentally winding down late at night with less working into the small hours over cups of coffee. Sleep is the body’s regenerator, and without enough of it everything suffers.
- And don’t forget to be patient, with yourself, and your partner. Remember sex is fun, not a chore. And if your symptoms really are insurmountable, then it may be time to consult a doctor.
Labels:
Asia Spa Men feature,
feature,
Great Sexpectations,
HK,
Hong Kong,
interview,
sex
Monday, 7 September 2009
Director’s Cut
It’s an important year for Montblanc. There are few brands that can boast a rich 100-year history while remaining strong and steadfast in the contemporary market. In the age of video killing the radio star, this centennial company has managed to manoeuvre its way out of the term antique into antiquity, while remaining a significant punter in the luxury-brand races. P.Ramakrishnan had a serendipitous chat and coffee with Wolff Heinrichsdorff, the head of the billion-dollar company as he brewed on the past, the present and the ever-encroaching future.
Let it not be said that no good can come from misplaced temperance. The crowning jewel in the constellation of luxury goods churned out of the Montblanc factory (a production line that dishes out an array of hand-crafted pens, fashionable accessories and, well, within the next year even more products that the company remains tight-lipped about as we go to print!), the bejewelled pen that glistens between manicured fingers and rests within the jacket of the high and mighty, has a rich history.
“In 1992, I was in New York, on a business trip and I met the CEO of Tiffany’s,” recounts Wolff Heinrichsdorff, Managing Director of Montblanc. “Tiffany was my biggest client in the US at that time and they were presenting our pens like asparagus on a vegetable market! And I was just a little bit upset with the guy…”
“Just a little bit…” mischievously echoes his marketing manager, seated in his shadow at the excessively elegant (but of course!) oblong conference room at the head office. She knows only too well the illustrious and humorous history and covers her mouth with a furtive smile.
“Yes, just a little bit!” reiterates Heinrichsdorff. “‘Look’, I said to him, ‘Don’t you think these beautiful writing instruments, they are precious and they are little jewels by themselves aren’t they?’
He laughed at me and said, ‘They are pens. They are pens, they are expensive pens! They are pens... full stop.’
A deep breath interrupts his flow of prose and he continues.
“Then they showed me all the Liz Taylor stuff – the Hope diamond and all that in their showcase. That was style. That was jewellery I was told. I was impressed but when I went home, I was still foaming! I was still foaming in the plane!! I came to my people here, to the factory and I said, ‘We have to do something!’
At that time we had a golden 149-carat pen, that was in Sean Connery’s film as a little rocket-pen in the Bond movie, a killing writing instrument. That was selling well - the pen, not the killing machine! - and it was one of the more expensive ranges.”
“I talked to these guys and said, ‘I need a pen that has to be encrusted with diamonds and if possible can you calculate it so that it has 4,810 (the height of Mont Blanc!)?’
So six months later, they came to me with a pen and it was a prototype and I put it in my jacket and went straight back to Tiffany. And when they saw it, ‘Whhaa….’”
With aspirated ‘H’s, Heinrichsdorff continues, ‘Whaha…this is w’h’onderful! I h-have never seen something like it and we want to display it on the fifth ‘h’avenue, in a special case!”
With a visible glint and a risible tone, Heinrichsdorff’s thrill is as conspicuous as the signature diamond glistening beside his right arm, in an emblematic little box on his table.
“He called me a week later and asked, ‘How much is the pen?’
I had no clue. I had no intention of selling it, I just wanted to show them that it can be done! I just said ‘US$100,000’! I didn’t know what the production cost was or anything but at that time, it was a sizeable amount of money. The next sentence, he said, ‘Ok, two sold’.”
With an open-mouthed pause, he sputters, “I was in deep shit!”
Laughter circumnavigates the boardroom before Heinrichsdorff continues. “I said that you cannot give away that pen, it was just a prototype and I need another six months for production. And we did deliver it six months later. It was selling. Seven sold within that time. To my own surprise! Out of the blue, sudden business comes.”
Hard to argue there.
With rich memoirs with similar tales of alpine heights of success born from glitches and bursts of inspiration, Montblanc the brand has an arresting history. As luxury brands get swallowed up by others, or fail to swim the tide of change in the market, it is quite an achievement that 100 years since three pioneers decided to make a polished, fountain pen (with an independent “ink tank” i.e. independent of an ink pot!), Montblanc remains a finely honed pinnacle of success in its field.
Wolff Heinrichsdorff joined the company less than two decades ago but his vast influence on the direction of where the brand must head, how it must maintain its pristine standards, has helped it from turning into a relic. Perhaps under a misguided direction the pen would have been seen as an antique relegated to archaic writers and for the signatures of erstwhile kings. But its not. It’s still an aristocratic symbol of dignity and decadence, power and purpose. You don’t write grocery lists with this pen, but perhaps hand over a state to a larger governing sovereign body!
Having enforced the value of tradition, privilege, as well as style and luxury in the range of products that currently roll out of Montblanc (watches, leather goods, jewellery and so on), to find out more about the company, its motto, its purpose and mission, all one needs to do, is find out more about the man. Judge a ship by its captain.
“I received this pen [taking out a weighty instrument from his breast pocket] when I arrived 15, 16 years ago in the company,” he says with a wisp of reminiscence. “This is the 149th Meisterstuck, a famous signature pen, which was renowned for being held only by the hands of the world’s most powerful people. In America, in Washington, it was called the ‘Power Pen’ because it has signed more mergers and acquisitions than any other pen in the world. This is my pen, the nib has been ground to my handwriting and its just absolutely perfect!”
Opening a leather-bound book and turning to the blank sheets of white paper, Heinrichsdorff signs his name in a flamboyant autograph.
“I’ve used many other pens because I have to but this is a pen that’s close to my heart. It has signed as well, many important things in this company. I like to write with fountain pen. I have my own exquisite ink, green ink. It’s very dark. This has been made particularly for me. I don’t use different ink. Everyone who sees it will know its from me and know that there’s a certain seriousness and gravity attached to it!”
The nib dances on the white sheet as the MD of the multinational corp answers, can you pinpoint a particularly proud moment since you joined the company?
“My proudest moment, to be very honest, I had at the very beginning,” he says as he tents his arms and rests his head in his hands. “That I did something totally against the odds and succeeded and that was when we founded the Mont Blanc de la Culture project in New York, in 1992. At that time the basic idea was to give patronage awards to the best patrons in the world. The jury was supposed to be famous artists. Artists at the peak of their career, they are the ones who should be able to treasure the importance of patrons for the further development of culture,” he says. “Good friends of mine, when I told them the concept, they said, it’s a great concept but it has one big flaw. Famous artists want to have money. They should do something for you. And I said artists have a conscience, they know that they should give back to society and how important it is for the stars of tomorrow to be supported today. They should be honoured to do something.”
“They laughed at me.”
It’s all a bit déjà vu, the ink not quite dry from recapping the Tiffany anecdote…
“And when I started to talk to famous artists, people like Catherine Deneuve and others. They all said, they liked the idea. Nobody asked for money. They were serving to that purpose, to that foundation, as jury members like Placido Domingo, Robert Wilson, Peter Ustinov or Jackie Chan, all of them served the jury because they understand the campaign of patronage.”
“And that made me very proud. In my judgement even big stars who make money, and rightly so, for being famous, they understood the importance of the development of culture. Protecting culture that is the backbone of civilisation. That made me proud. It was my proudest moment – all those people who said it’s impossible were wrong!”
In an era of celebrity marriages with brands with a pre-nup of multi-million dollar deals, it is hard to imagine that every star, tanned by flashbulbs, signed on for free. Which is perhaps why he adds, “There has been one, one singer, a famous guy who insisted through his agent to receive money,” confesses Heinrichsdorff. “And that gentlemen, a famous tenor, one of the famous three tenors, wanted to have money for that purpose. And after three years, he came to us and wanted to do it for free but we didn’t agree!”
Cocooned in a yawning room that’s clearly built for larger numbers, Heinrichsdorff seated at the head looks like a man who doesn’t have to agree with just anyone. Not even the overlords at Richemont, the monolithic Swiss-based luxury that has over the last few decades acquired all the best brands in Europe, Montblanc included, in the early ‘90s.
In a sea of sycophantic PR gargled sound bytes that hound heads of companies, it was an absolute pleasure to hear the uncensored musings of Heinrichsdorff. The managing director’s cut, if you will; “The takeover of Richemont was very silent,” he says monotone. “Before Richemont there was another company that had bought out Montblanc and then there was another reshuffling of who’s the boss but all that hasn’t affected the product.”
“At Richemont, the companies are being led totally independent from each other. And Richemont is not the super company that tells us how to run the business. We have certain targets and objectives, of course short term operative targets too and we have to survive as a company. They see that we are competitors with each other as well as Cartier or whatever and, really, we’re all selling to the same customer out there. They don’t interfere. We are in the direct competition with each other, we bite each other and we are like a group of lions peacefully sleeping next to each other but if there’s a zebra to eat, I tell you, we tried to get the biggest piece out of that!” he says reaching a crescendo.
“Some big holdings are doing it in a different way, trying to regulate things. Like in a zoo. They put them next to each other but there’s a fence between so they can’t harm each other. We are not a zoo, we’re a wild life!”
What happens if you don’t meet your target?
“I get bashed! I don’t get my bonus. If I don’t meet my targets in a row for one, two, three years then I look for a new job. We are responsible, not only for the money, we are responsible for our people, with people who have families and children and they depend on their income. If I am not successful, then I might be forced to fire people, that means people are suffering under my inability to be successful, then I have to be removed and make place for somebody who can do it better. And that’s not cruel, that’s how life is. And that’s how it is in the wilderness by the way eh?”
And we return to the National Geographic imagery.
“You don’t get a bite into the zebra, you starve! Rightfully, I get fired. We understand our budgets, we understand our targets which we have a promise to supply.”
Supplying a wealthy tradition of pens, coated with history, marked with tradition – the leap in diversifying into ladies jewellery seems… sudden. Unexpected. Unconventional. Even wrong perhaps? I’m quickly corrected.
“We asked ourselves the question on how far can we can in diversifying this brand,” he says. “It has to do something with the credibility of the brand. Let me go back. When you look at writing instruments its our core competence, its our roots, its our history, our heart-blood. This pen, this style of pen will always be the pen of the leaders of the world. What is handwriting nowadays? Why do people use writing pens? It all stems from the medieval times when writing was still the privilege of kings and the church. For normal people, they were left stupid, uneducated and left in the dark. The world had been ruled by writing. Nothings changed. The world is still ruled and managed by the people who have a signature which counts. The makers and shakers in this world are still in that kind of business by ruling by writing. The big bosses of companies when they sign the contract, they do that themselves. The act of power is in the signature. To go witch it, you need a power tool of value, of sustaining value.
If you look at the history of jewellery, it stems from the same origin. The church, the kings, the crown, the sceptre, the ring of the pope, its all an insignia of power. Its very close to the other instrument of power, the writing one.
You show your power, as well as your social status and the rich jewellery and the brands, you show your influence, your financial power, your social status. In other words, the same people who use this pen behave in other areas with the same target.”
So its never was just about the pen?
“These are not pens anymore, these are pieces of jewellery that happened to write.”
Indeed.
The Race to Oscar Glory: Paheli and Shahrukh Khan
A Bollwood film chases Academy honours. P.Ramakrishnan writes.
Early last week, 5,798 little ballots were sent out to members of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences and “the most famous actor alive on the planet” (TIME) Shah Rukh Khan, is hoping that at least half of them will tick the little box next to his film Paheli [Puzzle]. A quaint and visually sumptuous Hindi film he produced and starred in last year, up for a Best Foreign Film nomination. Hopefully.
Forget the award, for Indian cinema, even being nominated is an uphill struggle.
When asked at a press conference if he’s going to get a gilt-edged invite for the cinematic event of the year, Khan simply said, “I think it's a long shot… [getting nominated] but it's a good chance of getting Indian cinema some recognition."
Khan was on location in London when Vinod Pande, acting chairperson of the Film Federation of India, announced in Mumbai that Paheli was unanimously voted to represent India in the foreign film category at the Oscars.
When he spoke to the press, a very-much surprised Khan [the film received mixed reviews when it was released early last year] said, "I think its the time for our film industry to get recognised on it's own merit. It is time that Indian films and filmmakers and the audience do not have to be on the periphery of world cinema. I think and I believe we are as good as it gets. I want everyone to know that, and that would happen if we all believe that we are not just an exotic nation of snake charmers but a media literate and educated upcoming economy.”
However, if the past is indicative of the near future (nominations will be broadcast at 5 a.m. UST on Jan 31), well, the figures are working against him. Since the first Indian film, Alam Ara, hit the silver screen in 1931, an Indian movie has made it to the list of nominees at the Academy… erm… thrice; Mother India (1957), Salaam Bombay (1988) and Lagaan (2001).
On average India produces roughly 800 films a year, that’s about 59,000 movies over the last century churning out of the largest film industry in the world with an estimated annual turnover of nearly US$1.3billion per year and with a global reach of 3.6 billion, to Hollywood's meagre 2.6 billion. And yet, only thrice has an international celebrity mispronounced the names while reading the teleprompter during the live global telecast.
Nevertheless, Khan isn’t looking back at history, instead, he’s taking example of the movie mavericks like Miramax in Hollywood and noting the song and dance they go through to get the attention of the voters. The producers and distributors of Paheli approached the PR giant Rogers and Cowen for the film's promotion and the campaign is full on. Khan himself attended the two screenings in LA, lobbying for the voters with his trademark movie-star charms, while exquisite stills of the lead actors Rani Mukherjee and himself made it to full-page advertisements in Screen International and Variety. The buzz is clearly in the air among the esoteric circles that watch movies with subtitles.
But will it work? The selection of the film raised eyebrows in India itself where it did average business at the box-office and till date has won few awards in local ceremonies. Movies that garner applause from foreign countries usually are serious dramas, with political undercurrents or historical significance. The magical surrealism of a woman in love with a ghost disguised as her husband in the Mumbai musical doesn’t quite have the ‘Oscar goes to…” ring to it.
Though his own film Iqbal failed to represent India this year, producer/director Subash Ghai defended the selection saying, “Paheli represents Indian colour culture and ethos and mythical beliefs. It's based on an original work of an Indian writer from Rajasthan. These are elements that may have tilted the scales towards Paheli.”
While he backed the actor and wished him well, there are others of a diametrically different opinion grabbing headlines and columns. Indian producer/director Mahesh Bhatt had scathing comments for the film fraternity spending millions of rupees offshore to dollar-loaded audience that doesn’t care for Bollywood. "The manner in which people wag their tails in front of foreign academies and get swayed by them is pathetic and unacceptable," said Bhatt in a televised interview to an Indian channel.
"There are one billion people in this country and they are a better judge of an Indian film than those who sit on foreign soil and pass judgment. The yardsticks are completely different. I think the box-office rating given by the rickshaw-puller in this country who watches the film and determines whether it is worth watching or not is far more important for any filmmaker. When you make a film, you have to keep in mind the interests of the billion people you are catering to here. The idea is not to make crossover films, which a majority in this country may or may not like. If you want to cater to the international audience, go raise your money there!"
If the Golden Globe nominations are anything to go by as a precursor to the big O, Khan might as well take heed of Bhatt’s words and team India can get on their first flight back home. India didn’t, but China made the cut; Kung Fu Hustle, (Columbia Pictures Film Prod. Asia/Huayi Brothers/Taihe Film Investment Co. Ltd/Star Overseas; Sony Pictures Classics) and The Promise, Master of the Crimson Armor, (Moonstone Entertainment) are Golden Globe nominees.
Still, the campaign continues, there are interviews with American channels and appearances on morning talk shows before the ballots are collected and accounted for. After all, its an honour to be nominated. If even that.
Published in South China Morning Post, 2006.
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Tuesday, 1 September 2009
Reversal of Fortunes: An Indian Family sues HSBC: Classic David vs Goliath
Esquire was once a symbol of all things Indian – until a bad investment led to its downfall. Now the family’s planning a comeback, writes P.Ramakrishnan.
“Esquire made a name with good service. We were well known because we sold original items. There was nothing fake sold in our shops – including the movies and CDs. We introduced sportswear and we were going to expand on the property market. But then, things didn’t…” Choithramani stops mid-sentence.
To most readers, Esquire conjures images of the popular men’s magazine. But for a generation of Indians, it is synonymous with supplies of electronic goods and Bollywood films and music. Although Esquire ceased operations a decade ago, the trading company made headlines in July after wining a David-and-Goliath legal battle against HSBC: the banking giant was found to have acted with a “total lack of morality and legality” in forcing Esquire to sell a key property and having the troubled firm liquidated when it challenged the sale.
The bank has since appealed against the ruling and a judgment is imminent. But whatever the outcome, the family of founders Arajan and Gurdas Choithramani feel vindicated by the earlier decision – and they’re ready to move on to a new chapter in their lives.
“Our prayers were answered after 11 years,” says Sheela Choithramani, Arajan’s wife.
Even so, life will never be the same for the Choithramanis, who had been among the leading lights of the local Indian community. The family had to struggle to send their children to university in the US. And six years into the trial, Arajan Choithramani was diagnosed with cancer. Fair-weather friends deserted them. There were grim years for the family.
It’s been a harsh reversal of fortunes.
Though well-appointed, the family’s modest home in castle Peak Road is nothing compared to the luxurious Villa Monte Rosa on Stubbs Road, where they lived in the late 1980s. “We had everything then, a large house, cars and drivers, domestic helpers. We were very involved with the community here. Life was very different then,” Sheela Choithramani says.
The family hosted extravagant parties, sponsored prizes at the annual Diwali balls and was given to grand gesture – presenting the Indian singer Lata Mangeshkar with a gold CD when she played Hong Kong in 1994, for instance.
The good life was founded on Esquire.
Set up in 1965, it grew briskly in the ‘70s and early ‘80s thanks to the lock that the Choihramanis had on Bollywood entertainment. For decades, they held distribution rights to the films churned out in Mumbai, and grew wealthy selling videos to the Indian Diaspora around the globe.
“Esquire was a one-stop shop for all my Indian entertainment needs,” says local businessman Bhagwan Nihalani. “To the best of my knowledge they were they were the first to release Hindi movies on videotape and then on laser disc. Plus, they made their own compilations of songs and video clips.”
In the early ‘90s, to mark major laser disc releases, they would throw Bollywood-themed bashes where guests dressed to the hilt. Often their soirees were recorded on karaoke disc, with many participants reliving the fun as they sang along to Hindi songs.
During later years, Sheela Choithramani was often found behind the Esquire counter with other staff, greeting members of Hong Kong’s 30,000-plus Indian community as they walked in during the annual sales.
“Their greatest asset was Sheela’s ability to make you feel at home, like it was your own shop,” says Nihalani. “Invariably, I would find myself there at least four times a week to check what was new. When we heard that Esquire was closing, it was a shock.”
Choithramani, who moved from Delhi in 1973 after marrying her Hong Kong resident husband recalls the early years.
“Esquire had a couple of shops on both side of the harbour at first. There were two managing directors, my husband Arajan and his brother Gurdas. They expanded from two to eight shops, and we had about 200 staff.”
At its peak in the late ‘80s, Esquire’s annual turnover totaled more than $500 million. “We had branches in Mumbai and Delhi, and had agents selling our goods in the Middle East and around Asia, particularly Singapore.”
Electronic goods and laser discs formed the core of the business. “We were the first in the world to open the latest copies of Bollywood movies. We bought the worldwide rights to the best Hindi movies,” says Choithramani.
“Of course, there was competition with many retail shops, but Esquire was well known and had established itself in the ‘80s,” says her son Ravi Arajan, who was a teenager when Esquire was renting out videos at it Central outlet in Melbourne Plaza.
“Esquire made a name with good service. We were well known because we sold original items. There was nothing fake sold in our shops – including the movies and CDs. We introduced sportswear and we were going to expand on the property market. But then, things didn’t…” Choithramani stops mid-sentence.
With a deep sigh, she peruses the newspapers spread out on her coffee table – even the Chinese dailies. Although she can’t read the Chinese characters, the pictures hint at the story: her family, her legal team and the opposing ones are lined up with Hong Kong Bank’s iconic lion prominently displayed in one corner of the spreadsheet.
Esquire’s foray into property proved to be its undoing. It borrowed HK$180 million from the bank in 1981 to purchase Li Fung House in Central – a 100 per cent loan. Struggling to meet finance charges amid a slumping property market in 1983, it struck a debt restructuring deal with the bank. But following a dispute over debt charges, the company was forced to hand over authority of the property to the bank four years later, which then sold it to the family of Hang Seng Bank founder, Ho Sin-hang. Esquire challenged the sale after learning the details in 1994, and the bank had the company liquidated.
Reduced to just two employees, the last remnant of Esquire was a small, second-floor video and CD shop. That, too, pulled down its shutters for the last time in the summer of 1996 after a closing sale.
It was only one of many troubles to come.
“The past 5 years have been the worst,” says Choithramani. Although the family had the help of a formidable legal team, the lengthy dispute with the bank tested their fortitude to the last.
“We were struggling through the court battle, and we needed to give the best education to our children and survive. It has been hard to make ends meet over the years, but we managed.”
Then her husband Arajan, was diagnosed with multiple myeloma, a cancer of the plasma cell. “My husband was critically ill and it was due to the stress of this case and everything related to it. You breath stress in the air in Hong Kong,” says Choithramani.
“During the trial, all our accounts were frozen, but we managed because we were commission agents for fashion goods for various companies. The children were in good schools and they had grants an scholarships. When they grew up, they were working and helping us – our children have been behind us at every step.”
Dressed in a black salwar-kameez, her face carefully made up and her eyes stained with kohl, Sheela Choithramani has kept a brave front through the years.
“We couldn’t afford private health care. From hosting lavish dinners to worrying about medical bills, you can imagine what we went through,” she says, her voice wavering. She looks down for a second, straightens her back and continues. Thanks to the medical team at the Prince of Wales hospital, her husband has made a “miraculous recovery”, she says. “He passed a stage of cancer, multiple myeloma – it wasn’t the cancer itself, but he had various complications.”
Choithramani is reluctant to discuss how friends and even relatives have changed when the going got tough.
“We have gone through an emotional roller coaster, many ups and downs. But our family have faced it bravely; we always asked for the strength of the Lord to help us through these trials,” she says. “Over the years, perhaps we’ve lost a few friends. But if the ocean loses a few drops, it doesn’t dry up. We’ve managed just fine.”
A resilient matriarch, Choithramani is keen to get going again. “Once the settlement is done, we will restart, bigger and stronger than ever,” she says.
“I don’t know if it’ll be in electronics because the market isn’t what it use to be, but the next step is to ensure that the children can fulfill their dreams. Winning the case has been ours.”
In pic, Arajan and Sheela Choithramani for the Social pages of SCMP in 1973.
Published in
Life
Thursday, December 15, 2005
South China Morning Post
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